DIY BRZ / FR-S Oil Change

[chenshuo]

Originally Posted by Shinryu

As stated in the post you quoted, you need the F-108 for either vehicle.

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Their list is out of date. You want the valve for late model Subarus, the F-108.

Get the F-108 for just the valve, or the F-108S for a valve with a removable plastic nipple to attach a hose.

I don't see on the Fumoto Valva Canada site that has the "S" model. How can they get the size so wrong... i mean F-105 and F-108 is quite a big difference.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by chenshuo

I don't see on the Fumoto Valva Canada site that has the "S" model. How can they get the size so wrong... i mean F-105 and F-108 is quite a big difference.

Check some of the other vendors for the S.

If you look at the list, it doesn't actually list the BRZ or FR-S. Instead those sizes are listed under Other Vehicles.

[chenshuo]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Check some of the other vendors for the S.

If you look at the list, it doesn't actually list the BRZ or FR-S. Instead those sizes are listed under Other Vehicles.

Ok thanks. One last question about the valve: Where is the cheapest place to order one? I went on the qwikvalve.com website and the total price + shipping to Canada is about $50.

[mjs]

Originally Posted by chenshuo

Ok thanks. One last question about the valve: Where is the cheapest place to order one? I went on the qwikvalve.com website and the total price + shipping to Canada is about $50.

Amazon is $26 USD right now with 13 left in stock

[Mac1235]

Maybe this has been answered. But what oil are you using? What brand? Also if you go to a subbie dealership and ask for it you can get the OEM factory oil filter, the black one.

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by Mac1235

Maybe this has been answered. But what oil are you using? What brand? Also if you go to a subbie dealership and ask for it you can get the OEM factory oil filter, the black one.

We are using conventional Penzoil right now, next oil change we will go with a high quality synthetic oil And good info on the filters, thanks!


Rick

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by RallySport Direct

We are using conventional Penzoil right now, next oil change we will go with a high quality synthetic oil And good info on the filters, thanks!


Rick

Conventional? what weight? I was under the impression that 0W20 was only available in synthetic?

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

Conventional? what weight? I was under the impression that 0W20 was only available in synthetic?

That is correct, we used a 5W20. Still trying to decide what route to go for the next oil change, but it will be a high quality oil for sure. We will keep everyone updated!

Thanks,
Rick

[lp87]

So is it necessary to change the oil every 3000 miles? I just bought the necessary amount of motul synthetic 0w20 and it was like 90 bucks for just the oil and filter. Also have any of you only put 5 liters in it? Just put the 5 liter jug in and its near the full mark on the dipstick. Weird because the manual says 5.8 liters.

I know this was discussed earlier but could it be a whole .8 liter discrepancy?

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by lp87

So is it necessary to change the oil every 3000 miles? I just bought the necessary amount of motul synthetic 0w20 and it was like 90 bucks for just the oil and filter. Also have any of you only put 5 liters in it? Just put the 5 liter jug in and its near the full mark on the dipstick. Weird because the manual says 5.8 liters.

I know this was discussed earlier but could it be a whole .8 liter discrepancy?

That depends on how you drive the car, and also your personal preference. I personally like to change my synthetic oil between 3 and 5K, but some people will say it is a waste to change it that frequently. To really know what is okay and not okay, you would want to send your used oil in for analysis and they can let you know if you are changing it too early. I am no oil expert, so take this with a grain of salt lol.

In regards to the volume of oil, it is possible there was residual oil in the system which could make up the .8 liters. As long as you check your oil on a flat surface and it reads at the full mark on the dip stick, you should be fine

Thanks,
Rick

[chanomatik]

My car eats up the entire 6 liters of oil. I must drive hard.

[mav1178]

Keep in mind the 5.8L spec includes the oil filter, assuming it is holding oil.

-alex

[Sevs753]

Not sure if this is the right place but I seem to have oil leaking from the drain plug after my first and second oil changes. The first change, I used a new crush washer and insured that the old washer was off the plug. The second time, I replaced the plug with a fumoto valve.

When tightening the valve/plug down, I didn't use my torque wrench but i tightened it to the point where I thought i would strip the drain if I continued. When I went to change my oil for the second time, I noticed oil on and around the drain plug before draining the oil. I checked the other day and I still appear to be leaking oil from around the fumoto valve.

Did I miss a step somewhere? Am i just not tightening the plug enough? Could it be something else?

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by Sevs753

Not sure if this is the right place but I seem to have oil leaking from the drain plug after my first and second oil changes. The first change, I used a new crush washer and insured that the old washer was off the plug. The second time, I replaced the plug with a fumoto valve.

When tightening the valve/plug down, I didn't use my torque wrench but i tightened it to the point where I thought i would strip the drain if I continued. When I went to change my oil for the second time, I noticed oil on and around the drain plug before draining the oil. I checked the other day and I still appear to be leaking oil from around the fumoto valve.

Did I miss a step somewhere? Am i just not tightening the plug enough? Could it be something else?

you didnt miss any step.
1. either washer is defective or worn.
2. you might striped thread of oil pan plug.

i used to use torque wrench on tightening the plug but not on oil pan bolt anymore. i just put enough torque with hands. they won't come off.

recheck washer and replace it again for next change. I would put old oil plug bolt back with washer then see if there is leak. if not, then might be fumoto valve thread is damaged or washer doesn't fit well with fumoto valve