is it ok to drive without high revving?

[leon78]

Originally Posted by Marchy

or perhaps the first sports car for someone who's finally made it in his mid to late 20's.

Everyone was a newb at some point, lets not turn this into MSF where we badger newbies and make them run away. If you don't like the post, hit the back button and move on.

Fucking brownie....post nudes or GTFO....FYHN....MSF FTMFW!

Hehe.

[BRZfan]

?

Originally Posted by leon78

Fucking brownie....post nudes or GTFO....FYHN....MSF FTMFW!

Hehe.

[Mister]

Originally Posted by leon78

Fucking brownie....post nudes or GTFO....FYHN....MSF FTMFW!

Hehe.

Haha

And this sums up pretty much every MSF post, the community actually helped influence me to move on from the car, and move into the FR-S (which is what I originally wanted)


On topic:
I tend to shift mine pretty short (2500ish), but a good highway ramp or sweet corner you have to let the car stretch its legs, its good for the car and it always makes your day that much better.

[Anthony]

So many Motorcycle Safety Foundation jokes...

[EAGLE5]

I think it's only bad for the car if you're lugging it... which depends on load, gear, and rpms. I generally try to stay at 1800 and above when accelerating unless starting from a stop.

And seriously, rev the hell out of it. Have fun. Life is far too short.

As for the Mazdaspeed thing... LOL! What a bunch of pricks. Forum Wars? Never heard of it. Sad I now have. The thought of it pains me.

[tracerit]

you guys finding it harder to shift smoothly if you shift below 2500rpm? when i shift at this rpm, i find i have to ride the clutch a bit longer longer to get it to shift smoothly. maybe i just suck haha.

[Anthony]

Shifting down?

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by RallySport Direct

I would not worry about it, I drive mine like a grandma 97% of the time. I think the only downside is that your ECU will adapt to your light right foot and retard ignition timing a bit, so the car is not at its peak performance, but no harm should come from it.

A light foot shouldn't cause ecu to pull timing. Quite the opposite, a heavy foot, particularly at lowish rpm, gives higher cylinder pressures and heat and would more likely cause timing to be pulled. Light throttle/low load should generally allow optimal timing advance.

Driving the car like a reasonable human being in normal traffic conditions should not be any problem. Unfortunately, regularly driving the car like a normal human being at trackdays, i.e. upshifting at redline every time, might be a problem with these cars (DI failures => catastrophic engine failures)

[orthojoe]

Lol. I know lionbacker personally,and can say that you guys are waaay off on some of your assumptions. Lmao.

To answer your question, no, you can't harm the car by short shifting all of the time. At the same time, you should realize that you can't harm the car by revving the piss out of it either (DI seal controversy aside). The car will save itself from any damage from revving too high by cutting fuel past redline. The only way to damage from xs revs is by money shifting the car.

I'll let you google short shift and money shift.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by tracerit

generally how long after a start do you guys ring it out? i usually shift at max 4k for the first five minutes after start then start shifting at 5k.

*wring

I try to wait for the temperature gauge to hit the middle point which means the motor is "approximately" up to temperature. To curtail further discussion that gauge is mostly a "cold-warm-oh shit" indicator but it's good enough for 99% of owners.

[v1ru5]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

*wring

I try to wait for the temperature gauge to hit the middle point which means the motor is "approximately" up to temperature. To curtail further discussion that gauge is mostly a "cold-warm-oh shit" indicator but it's good enough for 99% of owners.

That needle gauge is really almost useless. The middle point is a variance of at least 50 degrees F, I see my coolant temp on a real gauge hit 150 when that needle is at the middle. from 150-210 the needle doesn't move at all.

I recommend getting the car to the middle point, and then still waiting another 5 minutes of driving before wringing it out.

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by ZDan

A light foot shouldn't cause ecu to pull timing. Quite the opposite, a heavy foot, particularly at lowish rpm, gives higher cylinder pressures and heat and would more likely cause timing to be pulled. Light throttle/low load should generally allow optimal timing advance.

This is true, and you may be right. I was under the impression that the ECU will learn habits of your driving to better suite how you drive the car. After much research it seems it may be a myth to some degree and the "learning" is more directly related to knock than throttle inputs.

Thanks,
Rick

[BRZ-OwnzJo0]

I tend to drive it harder in turns / roundabouts. I actually did a 4 tire slide and kicked the back end out in a roundabout yesterday... For a second I actually thought the back end was going to give it up but then the nanny control brought it back in the end (sports mode). I'll wind it through the gears a couple times a week now that it's hit that 1000 mile mark.

I mean.. I wouldn't NEVER wind it out. Run it through first/second every now and then... Why did you buy a sports car?

[BRZfan]

I'll make sure I take extra caution when I approach a roundabout and see another BRZ.

Originally Posted by BRZ-OwnzJo0

I tend to drive it harder in turns / roundabouts. I actually did a 4 tire slide and kicked the back end out in a roundabout yesterday... For a second I actually thought the back end was going to give it up but then the nanny control brought it back in the end (sports mode). I'll wind it through the gears a couple times a week now that it's hit that 1000 mile mark.

I mean.. I wouldn't NEVER wind it out. Run it through first/second every now and then... Why did you buy a sports car?