Strano Performance Parts 22mm Tubular front swaybar

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by trippinbillies40

Second what Andrew said. Talked to Sam yesterday about getting a front bar. He was very up front with me about my options while he worked through the issues with the bad batch. EXCELLENT customer service!

I completely agree!

[simpleisbest]

Preferably, I would like to run the bar with stock endlinks. Supposedly, shortening the endlinks can stiffen the bar some (by how much, who knows?). Hopefully there will be a corrected version soon. Looking forward to trying Sam's bar, but will be testing another 22mm tubular bar this weekend to get a comparison.

[Sam Strano]

Um, found some time to drop in, and thank you to Andrew for posting for me.

First, I want to apologize. We've been making bars for cars for years (Corvette, Mustang, Camaro) and have never had these issues. But those bars are bigger, thicker walled and easier to bend without kinking, etc. What really drives me batty is the fact at least 3 from the last run report no issue, and one from the run before which is confusing to say the least.

As for the shorter links making the bar stiffer. Um.... no, the bar is what the bar is. That said as you get very near full lock the shorter links will cause more flex in the bar which does stiffen it vs. less flex. But all bars do this, and it happens to some degree with any link. You can't quantify it, and frankly we don't tend to turn at full lock anyway. Finally, since my bar isn't 25mm, or solid, etc it would actually have less gain than other bars.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

Um, found some time to drop in, and thank you to Andrew for posting for me.

First, I want to apologize. We've been making bars for cars for years (Corvette, Mustang, Camaro) and have never had these issues. But those bars are bigger, thicker walled and easier to bend without kinking, etc. What really drives me batty is the fact at least 3 from the last run report no issue, and one from the run before which is confusing to say the least.

As for the shorter links making the bar stiffer. Um.... no, the bar is what the bar is. That said as you get very near full lock the shorter links will cause more flex in the bar which does stiffen it vs. less flex. But all bars do this, and it happens to some degree with any link. You can't quantify it, and frankly we don't tend to turn at full lock anyway. Finally, since my bar isn't 25mm, or solid, etc it would actually have less gain than other bars.

Did you ever figure out a better option for those aluminum collars?
I switched to hose clamps which is ghetto but works.

[Sam Strano]

Um, no. Lots of bars use split collars.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

Um, no. Lots of bars use split collars.

Sam, I know you work hard etc. But have to just point out the fact that the split collars you are using are grinding into the metal support frame as collar rotates as we discussed and they are much too large to fit any type aftermarket overripe setup.

Most people who have been asking me about the bar, I highly recommend it but am honest about the issues because you never responded.

[qoncept]

Can you tell us what it is about these bars that makes them require collars? I've never had collars on any other car.

[Sam Strano]

the collars are to locate the bar laterally. Some folks freaked that it might walk, even though it can't go anywhere so we included collars. This is not uncommon, lots of aftermarket bars use split collars. In fact the stock bar has some metal wrapped around it inboard of the bushings to do exactly that.

If the aluminum of the collar is touching the metal that surrounds/holds the bushing in place, knock the corners off of it (it's soft aluminum). Or you can buy various round split collars that might be smaller in diameter.

[qoncept]

So... can we skip them? I'm fairly certain I can hear them occasionally and I'd rather just take them off than file them if they aren't necessary.

[neurokinetik]

Originally Posted by qoncept

Can you tell us what it is about these bars that makes them require collars? I've never had collars on any other car.

It is more common than you think. For every bar I had on my Miata, I had a set of shaft collars. The front swaybar mounts are known to be weak on those cars, and the shaft collars were one way to help keep them from cracking and breaking. I never had one crack even with 7 years of auto-x on that car.

Also worth noting is that the stock bar on the twins has shaft collars on it. Because the bar is attached to the strut, which rotates when steering, it has a tendency to want to shift back and forth. The collars stop this from happening.

Of course, if they'd only made the bar attach to the control arm instead of the strut, we would not have had this issue.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

If the aluminum of the collar is touching the metal that surrounds/holds the bushing in place, knock the corners off of it (it's soft aluminum). Or you can buy various round split collars that might be smaller in diameter.

The bar walks under load, and turns. As it turns the collar can spin on the metal frame, that's where I have the etching. I can grind it but it will still etch.

I guess the point was, why should I have to grind, or source replacements at all Sam?

Send me something that will work.

[Sam Strano]

Well, you are the only one complaining about it. I sent you something that works... If you want to tweak it, tweak it.

All bars walk and rotate as they load and the wheels turn. I originally had the bar turn right out of the bushings to hold it, and the complaint was it was too tight. I didn't want the collars at all but I had much more call to widen the bar and run collars.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

Well, you are the only one complaining about it. I sent you something that works... If you want to tweak it, tweak it.

All bars walk and rotate as they load and the wheels turn. I originally had the bar turn right out of the bushings to hold it, and the complaint was it was too tight. I didn't want the collars at all but I had much more call to widen the bar and run collars.

I see, then the problems I have don't exist. And the photo I attached was made up.

I get why you did it, I appreciate your talent and experience. I even think the bar helped transformed the car. I am glad you are offering it.

But, I am not complaining to complain, I am asking you for a solution.

Your answer is this: "Grind them down so I don't have to deal with a one off issue."

And frankly it's not good enough for me. Want to talk more about it, PM or call me.

[simpleisbest]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

The bar walks under load, and turns. As it turns the collar can spin on the metal frame, that's where I have the etching. I can grind it but it will still etch.

I guess the point was, why should I have to grind, or source replacements at all Sam?

Send me something that will work.

Found these online from Misumi (Japan's version of McMaster-Carr):
Part Number: SCSPJ20-8
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...%2Fp1_0233.pdf

They're shaft collars are round and seem low profile. I might give them a try once I get the replacement bar from Sam.