Koyo Radiator vs Oil Cooler

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by iketeru

I'm intrigued by this discussion... being a total noob, I didn't know these components were available for way cheaper than the kit price. would be nice if someone could put together a DIY, with mounting options on our car.

for example, found one for 350z's here:
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...n-a-na-hr.html

This isn't really a DIY.. but here's my setup with pics. Anyone should be able to figure theirs out from this, the line cutting, routing, fittings, etc took the longest and caused the most bloodshed

Post 1: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=113

Post 2:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=126

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by jasper

I was told the car starts to pull load at 230 not entirely sure how accurate that info is but it came from a reliable source that has never given me bad information before.

Sent from my Q10

I don't doubt that, I just meant from an oil health/protection point of view. I've heard similar on it pulling power, on the track I haven't noticed any difference between 230 and 235 I'd have to look at datalogs to see if top speeds were lower without the cooler, but sadly there were other changes also so that's probably not a good real world test of anything.

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I don't doubt that, I just meant from an oil health/protection point of view. I've heard similar on it pulling power, on the track I haven't noticed any difference between 230 and 235 I'd have to look at datalogs to see if top speeds were lower without the cooler, but sadly there were other changes also so that's probably not a good real world test of anything.

Oh yeah I totally agree that for oil health on a 0 weight oil 250 is far to high. I was just letting you know because you said your temps were going past 230 so just encase you were noticing it losing a little bit once it gets hot that is probably the culprate.

Sent from my Q10

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

This isn't really a DIY.. but here's my setup with pics. Anyone should be able to figure theirs out from this, the line cutting, routing, fittings, etc took the longest and caused the most bloodshed

Post 1: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=113

Post 2:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=126

I like the mounting style I was just going to use the $7 zip connectors and mount it to the ac condensor. Also if anyone has questions about the lines or the fittings they are looking at send me the part number and the question and I will do my best to help you out.

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[iketeru]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

This isn't really a DIY.. but here's my setup with pics. Anyone should be able to figure theirs out from this, the line cutting, routing, fittings, etc took the longest and caused the most bloodshed

Post 1: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=113

Post 2:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=126

awesome, thanks!

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by jasper

Oh yeah I totally agree that for oil health on a 0 weight oil 250 is far to high.

I am not sure but I don't think your statement is correct. I am suggesting it is not 0 weight at 250F.

[Dezoris]

Well the question of pressures is also critical, and more so for track use which I have not started to monitor yet.

I think this is the first thread of its type to actually discuss anything relevant on this topic with data.

There is definitely the divide as usual, what is good for the track is not so good for the street and vice versa. The question is where is that middle ground. If you are in a hot climate and track all the time 0w20 is not your oil and you should absolutely monitor oil pressures.

Dave do you have data on where your pressures are at and what oil you are running.

Example: (Oil temps, Ambient Temps, Coolant Temps, Intake Temps)
WOT PSI, HIGH AND LOW RPM
IDLE PSI
CRUISING PSI

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

I am not sure but I don't think your statement is correct. I am suggesting it is not 0 weight at 250F.

I'm not a huge person on quality oil but I was under the impression 0w-20 was a 0 weight oil. On air craft if it's a 10 weight it is 10w.

By saying I'm not huge on quality engine oil doesn't mean I'm against using it just that I'm not very good on all the detergents and weight classes for it. Normally use what the dealer recomends.
Sent from my Q10

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by jasper

I'm not a huge person on quality oil but I was under the impression 0w-20 was a 0 weight oil.

There are 2 numbers there: 0 and 20. This means it's a multiweight oil. The "0" refers to the viscosity at the testing temperature for that "W" grade and the "20" refers to the viscosity at 100C. So it would be better to say "Oh yeah I totally agree that for oil health on a 20 weight oil 250 is far too high."


http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/m...ity/index.html
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto..._explained.htm

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Well the question of pressures is also critical, and more so for track use which I have not started to monitor yet.

I think this is the first thread of its type to actually discuss anything relevant on this topic with data.

There is definitely the divide as usual, what is good for the track is not so good for the street and vice versa. The question is where is that middle ground. If you are in a hot climate and track all the time 0w20 is not your oil and you should absolutely monitor oil pressures.

Dave do you have data on where your pressures are at and what oil you are running.

Example: (Oil temps, Ambient Temps, Coolant Temps, Intake Temps)
WOT PSI, HIGH AND LOW RPM
IDLE PSI
CRUISING PSI

I gathered data with 0w20, after switching to 5w30 pressures were great but I don't recall documenting them. I posted a thread on here somewhere

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

There are 2 numbers there: 0 and 20. This means it's a multiweight oil. The "0" refers to the viscosity at the testing temperature for that "W" grade and the "20" refers to the viscosity at 100C. So it would be better to say "Oh yeah I totally agree that for oil health on a 20 weight oil 250 is far too high."


http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/m...ity/index.html
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto..._explained.htm

Ok that makes sense now in hydraulic fluids we only have one number so I never paid attention to the second number. I am very much an old school V8 no ecu type of guy and the only oil I have ever bought until now has been 10w-30 I am trying to find time to read up on engine oil but it's been pretty crazy with time lately. Thanks for the links!

Sent from my Q10

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by jasper

Ok that makes sense now in hydraulic fluids we only have one number so I never paid attention to the second number. I am very much an old school V8 no ecu type of guy and the only oil I have ever bought until now has been 10w-30 I am trying to find time to read up on engine oil but it's been pretty crazy with time lately. Thanks for the links!

Sent from my Q10

The more you read about modern ecus and setups the more annoying it becomes when you realize how much of it revolves around emissions.

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

The more you read about modern ecus and setups the more annoying it becomes when you realize how much of it revolves around emissions.

Yes emmisions are a big enemy of the V8 people I'm working on a 351 Windsor that will gain 125hp once I remove the emmsion control stuff. But now that's it's not as simple as ripping some stuff off and tossing it in the dumpster I have to start hitting the books.

Sent from my Q10