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#1 |
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Senior Member
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Drain STA-BIL gas after storing for winter?
Fellow Canadians,
Going to be storing my 86 for the first time (and first stored car ever, for that matter). I'm going to add some sta-bil and top off my gas before the snow starts to settle. I'm curious as to how many people pump their gas our (drain) after storing for the winter (with stabil) or whether it's fine to just consume the gas through regular driving. I also plan to drive the car for a few minutes every 2 weeks or so as I park in a condo with a fairly expansive indoor parking lot (5KPH lapping!) Thanks in advance.
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#2 |
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Sarcastic SOB
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I have no idea why you would think that you need to drain the fuel that has stabilizer added for storage. The purpose of stabilizer is to keep the fuel from going bad (oxidizing), so that is usable in the spring.
Where would one dispose of drained fuel anyway?
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#3 |
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@wbradley I've seen a few people suggest it on other forums - they would pump out the "stabilized" / stored fuel and put it into other small motor equipment or cars that are less temperamental about fuel quality.
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#4 |
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Stored for 2 winters, never drained. Doing same thing this year.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to df.dima For This Useful Post: | 1Cor10:23 (11-17-2014) |
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#5 |
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Some say.....
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To be safe, just behave yourself in the spring as you burn through the tank. Much easier said than done, however. That first drive in the spring is like driving it for the first time all over! Tears of joy may or may not have been shed.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BatStig For This Useful Post: | 1Cor10:23 (11-17-2014) |
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op, fill up tank with fuel and then add bottle of stable and then run the car for 5mins so that the stable can get into the entire fuel line. When the warmer weather arrives, just drive the car around until you empty the tank. Make sure you cover your exhaust tips up with steel wool too to keep the rodents out.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Faccck For This Useful Post: | 1Cor10:23 (11-17-2014) |
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#7 | |
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Quote:
The purpose of stabilizer is to ensure the fuel is still good to use in 6 months, otherwise it serves no purpose. If in an unheated garage where theres a power receptacle, its best to keep a battery tender hooked up and never start the car until you take it out. In a warm condo garage perhaps start it every week to 10 days just to keep the battery from discharging. Running at idle 5 to 10 mins should do the job. Rolling forward or back slightly will help avoid flat spots on tires.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wbradley For This Useful Post: | 1Cor10:23 (11-17-2014) |
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#8 |
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^ about flat spots and tires, recommendations are to fill air to max psi, but last year I forgot. I never move the car, but it was ok last winter with regular mid 30 psi...
Let's say all winter I was a bit concerned about driving on square tires soon . It was fine.
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#9 | |
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Sarcastic SOB
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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#10 | |
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The SquadWhisperer
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Yeah the Sta-bil is specifically designed to prevent you from having to drain the fuel. Don't bother. If the car is stock then I wouldn't worry about driving it hard on the first tank either.
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#11 |
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Mr.Fujitsubo
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I honestly been storing my subaru for 6 years now and i don't do anything. No PSI increasing, no stabilizer fuel...all i do is warm it up and sometimes on dry winter days take it around the block. Doing the same for the FRS.
I guess if your paranoid you can do all those steps, but I've never done them and never had issues. Just my .02 cents
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#12 |
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A trusted mechanic - racer buddy of mine believes gas will last 1 year.
I have routinely stored cars for a year, no gas stabilizer, full tank, a couple of bottles of methyl hydrate (gas line anti freeze) and have had no problems. With my twin, I tried storing with and without stabilizer and noticed no difference . Perhaps the problem of winter condensation in the tank and lines adding water to the fuel is more of a problem than gas going bad - ?
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#13 |
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The SquadWhisperer
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http://www.fuel-testers.com/expirati...hanol_gas.html
Straight gasoline has a shelf life of years, but with the addition of ethanol it drops significantly (3 months) due to ethanol's tendency of absorbing water and subsequently separating which has huge effects on octane rating. I always cringe when I see "my mechanic buddy said". Five &*%^%^ minutes of googling will result in better info. A lot of people don't take into account that things might not be the same now as they were 30 years ago.
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#14 | |
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Quote:
Since he has been wrenching and racing for 40 years, as well as other very hi tech activities, I always try his techniques based on his experience. He was talking from practical experience obviously, and the reason for the methyl hydrate is to address exactly what you correctly state. I use non ethanol fuel, with methyl for storage for condensation - it worked. Did the same with ethanol 94, it worked. If OFT shows knocking after storage a gallon of race gas or Torco would bring the octane backup. ![]() ![]() CERBERUS |
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