Rockford Fosgate P300-10 powered sub review

[robwbright]

(I posted this in another thread as a reply, but thought it might be helpful to others).

I bought the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 powered sub for $153 shipped.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...e_P300-10.aspx

It fits almost perfectly under the back deck - so much so that if you turn it a bit sideways, it won't move at all. Don't expect to blow the back window - but I wasn't looking for that. I wanted enough bass to fill out the bottom and be able to feel it a bit in the car. At low volumes the stock system had ZERO bass even with the EQ cranked on the low end. Now it sounds nice and balanced. With the sub turned all the way up and the deck at 70%+ volume, the rear view mirror shakes. On some songs I actually turn the sub amp down a bit because it overwhelms the mids and highs. It enabled me to turn the 3 lowest bands of the EQ in the stock deck down a couple notches - which reduced some of the rattles in the doors (which I plan to remedy when we get some warmer weather).

If you're looking to make the stock system sound decent for a very reasonable amount of money, I'd recommend the Rockford as a good option.

[robwbright]

Appears the shortened link didn't work. Try it again...

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_33180_Rockford_Fosgate_P300-
10.aspx

[ZOMFGAARON]

I'd like to see some pictures. I've be interested in picking up something similar to this.

[DC2R]

Can you detail your install? I installed by using Rockford fostgate high to low RCA kit since 2014 Bespoke radio has no RCA and it sounds like garbage. Still need to tune it as I know it is not the speaker fault

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by DC2R

Can you detail your install? I installed by using Rockford fostgate high to low RCA kit since 2014 Bespoke radio has no RCA and it sounds like garbage. Still need to tune it as I know it is not the speaker fault

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Not really. The auto sound shop charged $75 to install - I provided the wiring kit and the sub/amp. I didn't want to mess with the install at all for that price. About all I know is that the wire colors in the BRZ didn't match the schematic he had for the BRZ... He tried going from the front door speakers, but couldn't make it work, so he ended up going off the back speakers (I saw another guy on here that said that was the easiest and/or only way).

You have to play with the adjustments - especially the crossover on the sub amp. When I first got in, I wasn't impressed at all. It added a little bit, but wasn't much. I turned the crossover up from whatever the lowest setting was to a bit about the middle on the dial and it came in nice. I'm satisfied. I'm sure an audiophile or sound system competition guy would laugh at my system, but it works pretty well for me (and I run the sound board for my church, have run the sound board for a local band and run pretty decent home theater equipment).

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by ZOMFGAARON

I'd like to see some pictures. I've be interested in picking up something similar to this.

I'll try to take a couple, but it ain't much to look at. Basically, if you place it flush against the back seats, you'll have a small gap at the top that would allow the sub box to move around a little bit (which would have made me want some sort of mount to hold it in place. Didn't really want to do that if I didn't have to). I angled it about 20-30 degrees to one side and that causes the top of the sub box to hit against the bottom of a support/brace or something under the back deck. It's basically wedged in there enough that I don't think it would move unless I hit something or was really getting on it at the track (and the sub box wouldn't be in there if I was at a track).

Takes up a bit more of the trunk angled like that, but if I really need the extra space, I'll just unwedge the box, put it flush against the back seat and there you go.

I do like the fact that the Rockford has a quick disconnect for the wiring - it's like a clip with both wire in it that plugs into the box. Thus, if you want to remove the box, just unhook the clip, stick the wires in the corner and pull out the box.

[DC2R]

I'll have to play with mine to dial it in. Sounds like the installer used something similar to what I did. I went with the amplified rear speaker wires as per Crutchfield's advice. I have wedged the sub in but manage to fling it loose and unclip power in the process a few times. Included Velcro has no place in this install. Will need to figure something out to hold it in place during spirited driving. Will maybe do it after my vacation in the keys starting tomorrow!

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by DC2R

I'll have to play with mine to dial it in. Sounds like the installer used something similar to what I did. I went with the amplified rear speaker wires as per Crutchfield's advice. I have wedged the sub in but manage to fling it loose and unclip power in the process a few times. Included Velcro has no place in this install. Will need to figure something out to hold it in place during spirited driving. Will maybe do it after my vacation in the keys starting tomorrow!

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

I should note that I have the plastic/rubberized Subaru trunk carpet liner in my car (came with it). Dunno if you do or not, but if you don't, that may be why mine seems to be tighter wedged in there than yours is.

[DC2R]

yes, that definitely makes a difference. Probably adds just enough height to really wedge it...... that got me thinking. I was thinking of creating some sort of bungy cord barricade or something to hold it in place but perhaps just putting something under/above speaker to wedge it would be good enough. Thanks!

[DC2R]

UPDATE:
Been blwoing fuses for days and yesterday completly gave up.
Blue light comes on but no sound.
I'm thinking the speaker blew.

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by DC2R

UPDATE:
Been blwoing fuses for days and yesterday completly gave up.
Blue light comes on but no sound.
I'm thinking the speaker blew.

if you press on it, does it have a smooth motion, or does it crunch, (skip)
if it does you have burned voice coils, which can happen

[DC2R]

Didn't seem to crunch but it is near impossible to remove the crimped I connectors without destroying speaker.
I am thinking of getting another 10 to throw in there. I just messed to figure out if amp still works. Any idea how to test that without another speaker handy?

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by DC2R

Didn't seem to crunch but it is near impossible to remove the crimped I connectors without destroying speaker.
I am thinking of getting another 10 to throw in there. I just messed to figure out if amp still works. Any idea how to test that without another speaker handy?

I meant press on the speaker.
amps can be difficult to test, as they may output the correct voltage, but still be bad.
the speaker you should be able to also do this:
use a DMM, and check the resistance across the terminals, it should be a little less that the impedance value IIRC. (I haven't looked this up, just going off memory here)

[IceFyre13th]

Originally Posted by DC2R

UPDATE:
Been blwoing fuses for days and yesterday completly gave up.
Blue light comes on but no sound.
I'm thinking the speaker blew.

and yet you just kept on replacing the fuses and playing it.........

The fuses are there for a reason, if they blow that means something bad has happened.......

Bet you have not only blown a speaker but the amp too......expensive way to find out what fuses are for.