Replacement Front Rotors

[Texas BRZ]

Hello everyone,

I don't need to upgrade / replace my front rotors just yet, but I can tell that I'm getting to that point soon enough...

I prefer not spend the big bucks for a BBK, and I just want to keep my eyes open for a set of front rotors that work very well (and have a long life) with our particular vehicle, which are reasonably priced. It would be great to know of an option that has been tried and proven by someone's own experience...

Sorry if this type of thread has already been developed in the recent past... If that's the case, please feel free to direct me to the specific link(s).

Just in case anyone's wondering, I'm on my second set of stock pads upfront, and I have Ferodo DS2500 pads on stand-by in my garage.

If I'm not mistaken, I've completed 5 two-day DE events with my FR-S (some rainy days), and I'm still on the OEM Michelin Primacy tires.

Thank you in advance for any knowledge and pointers you may be able to share with me.

Texas FR-S

[bugeye_fever]

Not sure what your personal goals are for the car, but it sounds like you like to get out and drive it like its supposed to be, I was advised in a similar situation to go with a set of cryo treated blanks (no grooves or cross drilling.) Remember, brakes are a consumable. Not the sexiest thing in the world, but give longer life and won't lessen pad life. Plus no one can see what brakes your running when your actually tracking the car. Good luck!

[Texas BRZ]

Originally Posted by bugeye_fever

Not sure what your personal goals are for the car, but it sounds like you like to get out and drive it like its supposed to be, I was advised in a similar situation to go with a set of cryo treated blanks (no grooves or cross drilling.) Remember, brakes are a consumable. Not the sexiest thing in the world, but give longer life and won't lessen pad life. Plus no one can see what brakes your running when your actually tracking the car. Good luck!

Thank you so much for your input.

Well, I don't have much goals for the car... Meaning I'm only modifying it as needed.

Now that I think about it, my primary goal is for the car to keep up with me reliably as I progress upwards towards the more advanced run group levels.

I'm trying to inherit your exact belief that the brakes are a consumable, which makes absolute sense to me. I don't need anything flashy, and just want it to perform its job without much drama.

I'm going to definitely look into the cyro treated blanks that you mentioned... Can you give me further direction on where to acquire those?

Thank you again for your help.

[gmookher]

cryo powerslots + ds2500s + motul 600=so far so good under severe duty use, religious about cool down laps

stickier tires WILL stress out the OE brake setup

[Rejor11]

I use blanks. Hell, half the guys that I know at the track use blanks. I suggest using blanks for now until you get very dedicated and have your car set up with stickier tires, suspension, and maybe even more power. Don't get cross drilled rotors as those are more for show than go (or stop in this case.) I've seen cross drilled rotors break under the stress more often than not. Furthermore, the drilling reduces the amount of heat conductive material.

Honestly, you can just stick with blanks unless you're tracking more than once or twice a month. I know a guy with a built miata who uses nothing but 25 dollar blanks per corner. Sure, he replaces them every three track days, but that's because his pads are gone by then :P

You can go slotted, since that will give the brake dust some place to go, but honestly I think it's a waste of money unless you're going to be tracking every weekend, and even then you'll still be replacing rotors whenever you swap pads.

*EDIT*

Also, don't forget to get stainless steel lines and high temp fluid.

[bugeye_fever]

Just google cryo treated rotors and go from there. I didnt see a whole lot yet as the car is pretty new still, but once you find a brand you like, i'd call and see if they have your application. I found Centric's, made by stoptech, that weren't treated, but on the website it says they can treat any rotor they sell.

I'd also have to reinforce rejor said above. Stainless lines and fluid are a great bang for the buck.

[diirk]

Originally Posted by Rejor11

I use blanks. Hell, half the guys that I know at the track use blanks. I suggest using blanks for now until you get very dedicated and have your car set up with stickier tires, suspension, and maybe even more power. Don't get cross drilled rotors as those are more for show than go (or stop in this case.) I've seen cross drilled rotors break under the stress more often than not. Furthermore, the drilling reduces the amount of heat conductive material.

Honestly, you can just stick with blanks unless you're tracking more than once or twice a month. I know a guy with a built miata who uses nothing but 25 dollar blanks per corner. Sure, he replaces them every three track days, but that's because his pads are gone by then :P

You can go slotted, since that will give the brake dust some place to go, but honestly I think it's a waste of money unless you're going to be tracking every weekend, and even then you'll still be replacing rotors whenever you swap pads.

*EDIT*

Also, don't forget to get stainless steel lines and high temp fluid.

I think this is the correct way to go unless you're going for a show car. No reason to run pretty slotted/drilled rotors on the track at the level most of us are at.

[mla163]

100% correct responses here.

I'm glad people aren't screaming for slotted / drilled rotors.

[ultra]

+1 on cryo treated Centric rotors if you can get some. Cheap and effective, can't go wrong.

DBA floating front rotors might be nice but you'd be starting down the rabbit hole a bit there.

[Texas BRZ]

Originally Posted by gmookher

cryo powerslots + ds2500s + motul 600=so far so good under severe duty use, religious about cool down laps

stickier tires WILL stress out the OE brake setup

I've looked into your sig previously, and it looks as though I'm following through a similar route as you did with the basic modifications, such as: Brake fluid (already upgraded to Motul RBF600, brake pads (DS2500's in garage and ready to install), and tires (ZI Star Spec on the front of my order list, unless ZII's come out soon enough).

Are you saying that even the Star Spec tires will cause the standard brake system to respond negatively on our car? If so, can you please explain the problem(s) that you have faced?

Originally Posted by Rejor11

I use blanks. Hell, half the guys that I know at the track use blanks. I suggest using blanks for now until you get very dedicated and have your car set up with stickier tires, suspension, and maybe even more power. Don't get cross drilled rotors as those are more for show than go (or stop in this case.) I've seen cross drilled rotors break under the stress more often than not. Furthermore, the drilling reduces the amount of heat conductive material.

Honestly, you can just stick with blanks unless you're tracking more than once or twice a month. I know a guy with a built miata who uses nothing but 25 dollar blanks per corner. Sure, he replaces them every three track days, but that's because his pads are gone by then :P

You can go slotted, since that will give the brake dust some place to go, but honestly I think it's a waste of money unless you're going to be tracking every weekend, and even then you'll still be replacing rotors whenever you swap pads.

*EDIT*

Also, don't forget to get stainless steel lines and high temp fluid.

You make complete sense... I will definitely go ahead and consider the blanks for the time being, but may move up to the cyro treated Centric rotors made by StopTech as others have mentioned. I will not go with fancy drilled or even slotted rotors.

Thank you for your knowledgeable response... It has truly made a positive difference on my perspective as I attend more and more track days. I attend at least 1 two-day track event per month, and sometimes I squeeze in two events per month if circumstances allow.

The brake fluid was the first thing to go after my very first event with my FR-S... Therefore I have already made the upgrade to RBF600 fluid... I've held off on the SS lines since I've heard they are mostly for the 'feel factor'... Correct me if I've mistaken.

Originally Posted by bugeye_fever

Just google cryo treated rotors and go from there. I didnt see a whole lot yet as the car is pretty new still, but once you find a brand you like, i'd call and see if they have your application. I found Centric's, made by stoptech, that weren't treated, but on the website it says they can treat any rotor they sell.

I'd also have to reinforce rejor said above. Stainless lines and fluid are a great bang for the buck.

Yes, I will definitely go ahead and perform the google search... May go ahead and pull the trigger on the Centric rotors by StopTech (cyro treated, if available as an option).

Agreed, proper brake fluid was a crucial upgrade after my first event... Feels much, much better now.

Originally Posted by diirk

I think this is the correct way to go unless you're going for a show car. No reason to run pretty slotted/drilled rotors on the track at the level most of us are at.

No show car for me... I'm on the same page as you guys.

Originally Posted by mla163

100% correct responses here.

I'm glad people aren't screaming for slotted / drilled rotors.

I'd have to agree... Thanks for the correct responses.

Originally Posted by ultra

+1 on cryo treated Centric rotors if you can get some. Cheap and effective, can't go wrong.

DBA floating front rotors might be nice but you'd be starting down the rabbit hole a bit there.

Cyro treated Centric rotors it is, then... Time to start the search for a front pair.

Thank you.

[rice_classic]

IMHO Cryo is effective but the benefit does not match the cost. Simply running the 120 series Centric Premium rotors will be more than sufficient with a proper pad and proper fluid.

Do you have a couple hours to burn? I have a good thread that I compiled from my findings regarding racing pads and my experience with Centric Premiums (which are only $32/corner for my CRX!

Here: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3050206

[diirk]

This was where I was buying parts for previous Suby's. Well known on NASIOC.

http://www.knsbrakes.com/carSeriesDe...Single%20Rotor

They have front and rear rotors for the BRZ or complete brake packages.

[Rejor11]

Stainless steel lines may provide a better feel, but it's more to prevent the lines from swelling due to heat. The rubber lines that come on the car will swell over time and may eventually crack, although that will take some time. I've heard stories of peoples' rubber lines leaking fluid eventually.

Since you're going to the track fairly often, you should grab the stainless steel lines. If you were only doing autocross, then I probably wouldn't even bother with stainless steel lines, since the brakes won't usually start to bake in autocross.

[Aznsky]

I used centric premium blanks on my 350Z, got at least 5-6 events before switching to Brembos (which I then purchased crentric premium blanks again). Probably could have gotten a few more events as well.

You can usually find them from rockauto.com and you can usually search online for a 5% coupon as well.

Cheap too as they were about 40 a piece if memory serves me correctly.