SubaSteve's BRZ audio build

[SubaSteve]

Alright so I've arrived at the point where I'm pretty sure what I want to do right now with my audio upgrades. Here is what I want to do now just to get the base line setup for future upgrades.

I would like to add a 4 channel amp to power the stock speakers until I have time/money to replace all the speakers. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-300-4V2-4-Channel/dp/B000XUBL9Q"]http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-300-4V2-4-Channel/dp/B000XUBL9Q[/ame]


I was planning on getting a legit lineout converter.http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6I...y.html?tp=2001

I want to run a higher gauge wire for power so I can upgrade to a separate amp to power a sub down the road. If you guys could recommend a wiring kit.

Also I would like to install some sound dampening material now when we take it all apart. If I could get some recommendations on this as well. I don't really plan on going crazy with this stuff mainly focusing on the trunk and doors.

I'm all ears to suggestions right now seeing as my family has never really gotten into aftermarket audio installation. I definitely want to keep the speakers stock and the same head unit until later. I don't want to go throwing a bunch of money into this yet so I want to start off with the basic upgrades and make a platform I can build off of.

[koteman]

Knu konkepts for wiring. At least a 4ga ofc kit or 0ga cca if u plan on doing more than one amp later. Then do cdl tiles for sound dampening. They only have to cover 25% of the panel area so less time on instal and weight. I did my whole Tc with 20 sq feet and it's super dead. If u have any audio questions let me know that's my specialty and I'm mecp certified


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[ngabdala]

Also get JL Audio Cleansweep since you're keeping the stock headunit.

[Zetherin]

I know I'm being very ignorant here, but what's the installation time like on just the amp and the sub, do you think?

The sub can easily be situated in the back (most people seem to be switching out the enclosures on a lot of the bigger subs), with the wiring going under and through the trunk mats. And then where are you planning on placing the amp? The OEM Audio crew actually places theirs behind the glove compartment. Have you considered that? And Kote, you really only need to cover 25% of the doors(panel area?)? What other spots are vital for placing the sound deadener at?

I'm currently searching for a guide, as I'd like to do exactly what you're doing, OP.

[koteman]

I havnt had a chance to do an instal on a frs/brz yet but it shouldn't be more than a few hours with taking ur time and never doing it before. I wouldn't do a conventional amp behind the glove box because of size and heat. I'd do back of the back seat in the trunk or under the seats maybe if they are class d amps.


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[wheelhaus]

Speaker wire:
I also recommend Knu for wires, their twisted wires are pretty nice, but any "car audio" speaker wire will work fine. oxygen free and flexible. Unless you want to run a lot of power, stick to 16g for mids/highs, and 14-12g for subs. You can buy by the foot on their site (www.knukonceptz.com). Their cable "Y" boots are a nice touch. Always get more wire than you think you'll need.

power wire:
Being a class A/B amp but only 300 watts, the JL 300/4V2 could even get away with 8g for power wire. 4g should be more than enough for it. If you want to run a second amp later from the same single power cable, you might want to use 0 gauge if you intend to add a powerful amp for a sub. Otherwise 4g is plenty for two small amps. Use a 1x2 distribution block to split the power from the main cable to each amp (two 4g or 8g/4g, etc). Also grab some ring terminals and crimping tools. You'll want the rings for bolting the power/ground wires to the car. (Use a fuse near the battery).

Deadener:
I've used sound deadener stuffs from www.secondskinaudio.com with great success. The Damplifier (another CLD) used the typical aluminum/rubber construct that most deadener companies use now, it works great. I like to layer a patch of Overkill right behind the speaker on the door skin, on top of the normal Damplifier to prevent too much sound reflection from the back of the speaker.

Installation:
This is the hardest part, but the extra time spent will make it worthwhile by being completely hidden. If you can remove the seats, it will make wire and amp installation a LOT easier. If you're comfortable popping interior panels, you'll have even more options for a cleaner install. You only need to find clean routes for the wires to fit into. If you want to upgrade later, go ahead and run wire to the doors and dash. Use zip ties and don't pull wires tight, let them relax. Try to fish the speaker wire through the rubber boot in the door, it may be tricky and you may need a "fish line" to worm through the boot before you pull the soft wire through. It's recommended to keep power and signal wires routed separately. See if the amp(s) will fit under one of the driver or passenger seats. Here they don't interfere with trunk storage with the rear seats up or down. Another benefit is that your runs are short, instead of going all the way back to the trunk and back up to the doors.. I'm skeptical whether or not the amp will fit behind the glove box, but it's definitely worth investigating, it'd be a GREAT spot for it IF it can fit. Pull all your wires first, then trim and dress them into place.

Audio:
I personally would recommend ignoring the rear speakers. Use channels 1 & 2 for a set of fronts (this could be coaxials or better yet, separate components with a passive crossover). Use the other two channels bridged for a small sub. At 150 watts, an 8" sub would be good. You won't get a ton of boom from it with that power, but you will get some lows to balance the sound. Using only front speakers can provide you with a cleaner "front stage" that makes more sense to your ears and brain. If you can't afford a sub now, go ahead and wire the rears, they can add a bit of low end.

There's a lot of additional stuff that can be done, (time alignment, active crossovers, EQing) but you'll need more amp channels and more audio processing, also, adding a mono amp for a sub, etc. If you intend on going this route, a lot of things can change. But, you've got a good foundation with this starter kit.

When you need help with amp/HU settings, let us know!

[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by Zetherin

I know I'm being very ignorant here, but what's the installation time like on just the amp and the sub, do you think?

Amp and sub could be a few hours as koteman said. A full installation as I outlined, could take an entire day or weekend (sound deadener, pulling wires everywhere, etc). You can also stage it out, do a bit here and there and use the stock system until everything is ready to be connected.

[koteman]

Yeah if you only knew how many speakers and Channels and Amos I had you would laugh. I have full active external crossovers and eqs and ridiculous amounts of power wires and other upgrades lol. 4 super tweeters 8 6.5s and a 12 that keeps up with all that pa audio but still has awesome sq.

Alpha damp is the cdl tiles I have they are part of second skin dreading brand I think. But I'd think about taking the money from a audio control and clean sweep and just upgrading the head unit right away. It will make a huge difference in how the sq is and simplify the instal. If u want a box design let me know.


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[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by koteman

Yeah if you only knew how many speakers and Channels and Amos I had you would laugh. I have full active external crossovers and eqs and ridiculous amounts of power wires and other upgrades lol. 4 super tweeters 8 6.5s and a 12 that keeps up with all that pa audio but still has awesome sq.

lol yeah I've never let myself go that overboard! I have a good SQ setup ready to go in. A set of high end components and two JL subs with active crossover from the HU. Simple, but quality. Had to get a new head unit, decided on the new Pioneer DEH-80PRS. Had to sell my Alpine 9887 with my WRX... Hopefully my two Alpine PDX amps will fit under the seats... Ugh, the wait is killing me.

[koteman]

Yeah the wait to get my frs and start a new audio build is killing me.


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[Gir]

My current car runs a single 2 gauge that splits down to a 4 gauge that runs a 1000wrms monoblock, and an 8 gauge that runs a 4x50wrms a/b. This is still massive overkill for what I run. So 4gauge will be perfectly fine for you, but if you want to be safe, run 2 gauge. You will never need 0 gauge.

[michaelahess]

Originally Posted by Gir

My current car runs a single 2 gauge that splits down to a 4 gauge that runs a 1000wrms monoblock, and an 8 gauge that runs a 4x50wrms a/b. This is still massive overkill for what I run. So 4gauge will be perfectly fine for you, but if you want to be safe, run 2 gauge. You will never need 0 gauge.

4 gauge will run a lot more than everyone thinks, especially in such a short car...


BTW upgrade speakers before amps if money is tight.

[Gir]

Originally Posted by michaelahess

4 gauge will run a lot more than everyone thinks, especially in such a short car...

Yep. 4 gauge can run 110-120 amps. Most people don't understand just how much power this is.

[SubaSteve]

Originally Posted by michaelahess

4 gauge will run a lot more than everyone thinks, especially in such a short car...


BTW upgrade speakers before amps if money is tight.

Money not really tight I just dont like dumping all of my money into something at one time. Is that line out fine for my situation I'd prefer to not spend an extra 100 dollars on something that does basically the same thing.