Rear Camber with 1” Drop

[maslin]

It seems this topic has been covered multiple times through the years. But nothing recent and I’d like some input.

New (to me) ‘17 BRZ, 5000 miles. Picked it up 3 weeks ago bone stock.

17x8 +40 with the original 215s, I’ll be going up to a 225 or 235 when the weather clears up.

Just installed some used Eibach Pro Kit springs from a member on here. Drop is nice and even, just shy of an inch. Threw it on the rack today and the rear camber is rough.

I have SPC bolts for the front, looks like I should be shooting for -1.5 front camber? Assuming I need rear LCAs to pull the camber back in, -1.3? Moog RK100136 appears to be the same as SPC, $180 vs $215 for the pair on Amazon.

Rear toe I’ve been seeing 0.10* per side, 0.20* total, so that’s where I went.

Front toe I set to 2 minutes toe in unpressed, should be right at 0* pressed. I think I want a bit more toe out, it feels a little light and vague. 22 minutes toe out was nice and heavy, definitely too far the other way though.

So am I heading the right direction? Ignore the red, green and 172 chassis at the top, our machine is brand specific. Also note the specs are in degrees and minutes, not decimals. 0*6’ is 0.10* -0*30’ is half a degree negative camber.

[mkodama]

I used the SPC front camber bolts with crash bolts, and SPC rear camber arms. Front camber maxed out around -1.8, and I set rear camber to match. Rear toe was set on the toe-in side of the stock specs. I ended up going this way on my 2017 car because with stock rear camber I was getting oversteer both on and off throttle, which was hurting track and street confidence.

I’d say the right direction depends on how the car feels to you on the track.

[maslin]

The front felt better at 22’ toe out, obviously that’s way too far. 4’ in is wrong, it feels like a E class.

The rear is off over bumps, need to get the camber fixed before tuning in the toe. LCAs are on the way, gotta love new cars.

[maslin]

In case anyone is keeping up, or searches this out. I'm going out on a limb and saying the Moog RK100136 is the same as the SPC kit. $170-180 shipped on Amazon for 2 kits. SPC combo is ~$215 at various sources.

[wparsons]

I'm running 0 front toe, 1/16" total rear toe in (not sure on the conversion to degrees). -3.2*F camber and -2.4* rear camber.

The camber curve in the rear is better than the front, so ideally you'll have more front camber than rear.


Don't know anyone that felt the need for toe out up front for daily driving, but you do you.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by maslin

In case anyone is keeping up, or searches this out. I'm going out on a limb and saying the Moog RK100136 is the same as the SPC kit. $170-180 shipped on Amazon for 2 kits. SPC combo is ~$215 at various sources.

Yes the following arms are just slotted OEM arms:
Moog
Whiteline
SPC
Superpro
Eibach

Although some will have poly bushings while others have cross axis bushings. I wish I did superpro (I have whiteline) because they are blue and have a sweet combo deal with their adjustable toe arms.

[churchx]

norcalpb: add to that list Eibach.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by wparsons

I'm running 0 front toe, 1/16" total rear toe in (not sure on the conversion to degrees). -3.2*F camber and -2.4* rear camber.

The camber curve in the rear is better than the front, so ideally you'll have more front camber than rear.


Don't know anyone that felt the need for toe out up front for daily driving, but you do you.

I'll set the front toe to 0 as well. Always treated me well on my 240sx (back in 2004 )

Amazon only sent one LCA, the other shows Prime shipped, delivery Feb 26th. Must be coming on the slow boat. Thanks Amazon.

[maslin]

"Moog" rear LCAs, no rear toe bushings. SPC 14mm bolts in the front lower hole, no crash bolts.

Need to play with some spacers and get properly sized tires. Much happier with how it looks and handles regardless.

[Turbo]

Are those alignment numbers measured with or without you in the car?

[maslin]

Originally Posted by Turbo

Are those alignment numbers measured with or without you in the car?

Empty, as I’ve been doing them for 15 years.

I understand the argument for simulating the weight, the brand I work under does not specify any weights, so we don’t have any.

Haven’t figured out how to do the alignment from the drivers seat, I have a feeling I’ll be out of a job once those days roll around.

[NoHaveMSG]

You could always just put an approximate amount of weight on the driver floor board.

[Turbo]

Originally Posted by maslin

Haven’t figured out how to do the alignment from the drivers seat, I have a feeling I’ll be out of a job once those days roll around.

Or maybe have one of the other techs sit in the car as you do the alignment, or have them do the alignment while you sit in it?


The shop I went to for my track alignment was very insistent that I be in the driver seat and have the rest of the car in the same condition I track it in before starting my alignment.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Turbo

Or maybe have one of the other techs sit in the car as you do the alignment, or have them do the alignment while you sit in it?


The shop I went to for my track alignment was very insistent that I be in the driver seat and have the rest of the car in the same condition I track it in before starting my alignment.

Can-alignment? Sounds like Scott