Idle drops when clutch pushed in and car dies?

[FRSFather]

2013 FR-S 54,000 miles. The car starts and idles fine, but when I’m driving and coming up to a stop light, I push in the clutch and then the rpms drop and car dies. It starts right back up. But when the clutch is pushed the rpms drop, and about 50% of the time the car will die. Does anyone know what is causing this? Does this have to do with that cam sensor in the sticky section?

[tomm.brz]

stock ecu?

[ermax]

There were some idle improvements made in ZA1JB01C but even then the idle dips frequently after an ECU reset. Did you happen to replace your battery or have your battery disconnected? If so the ECU resets and it takes about 200miles to finish it's learning phase and the idle tends to suck until it's done.

If you don't have the latest flash then you may want to go to a dealer and see if they will update it for you or maybe find someone from the community in your area that will flash it for you.

[FRSFather]

Yes stock ecu. We changed the battery last summer so we have over 200 miles on it. Is that ecu flash something they’ll do for free or is it considered some kind of service? Speaking of batteries this is a 1 year old battery, and it keeps dropping charge when it sits overnight. When it’s running, it’s about 14.4 volts so I believe the alternator is doing it’s job, is there a chance the battery is bad already? I can take it back to Walmart if I have to.

[Tcoat]

Did it do this before the TOB change?

[ermax]

Originally Posted by FRSFather

Yes stock ecu. We changed the battery last summer so we have over 200 miles on it. Is that ecu flash something they’ll do for free or is it considered some kind of service? Speaking of batteries this is a 1 year old battery, and it keeps dropping charge when it sits overnight. When it’s running, it’s about 14.4 volts so I believe the alternator is doing it’s job, is there a chance the battery is bad already? I can take it back to Walmart if I have to.

I doubt they would flash it for free. If you were within 36k they would do it for free because there is a TSB for it. It is a very simple task that only takes 5mins or so. But pairing new keyfobs is also a simple task which takes even less time but that doesn't stop them from charging obscene amounts to do it.

I would think that if your battery is capable of cranking the car then it's capable of keeping power to the ECU while the car isn't running. It's hard to say though. The official Toyota diagnostics software (Techstream) can tell you how many miles you have gone since the last ECU reset. Maybe a generic OBD2 scanner could also read this. If so, maybe an autoparts store could plug in and check this for you for free.

How is your throttle response right now? After a reset I have a hard time starting off smoothly because the throttle response is very inconsistent.

[FRSFather]

Yes that’s when I noticed it, but it’s my daughters car. She said it’s been doing that for a while. It seems like it has always dipped wen the clutch is pressed in, but I don’t recall it ever dying from the dip in rpm. I found this online, this was published in 2013 same year as the car, I wonder if the car was made before or after this publishing. Maybe it is the ecu.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1386706237

[FRSFather]

Throttle response is great.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by FRSFather

Yes that’s when I noticed it, but it’s my daughters car. She said it’s been doing that for a while. It seems like it has always dipped wen the clutch is pressed in, but I don’t recall it ever dying from the dip in rpm. I found this online, this was published in 2013 same year as the car, I wonder if the car was made before or after this publishing. Maybe it is the ecu.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1386706237

That is the TSB I was referring to. I got my 2013 used last year with 82K on it and it was still on the original software which didn't have the idle fix or the DI seal fix. My car would dip low enough to shut off too. I ordered a Tactrix cable the first week of ownership because I wanted to be sure I had the DI seal fix applied to my car. Even on B01C my idle dips but never enough to shut off. It also oscillates a lot at idle.