Front bearing retainer - Permatex RTV OK?

[AlexTheGreek]

As with many others, my TOB failed causing me to do a full clutch replacement and also replace my front bearing retainer that is damaged by the faulty TOB (70000mi)

Question: The manual recommends specific Toyota 1281 sealant on the front bearing retainer and specific thread locking compound as well that was green from the factory. Can I just get away with Permatex High Temp red RTV silicon and my standard blue loctite?

Lots of labor hours here so don’t wanna cut corners...

[AT-JeffT]

Any updates on this? Did you end up using RTV and loctite blue?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by AT-JeffT

Any updates on this? Did you end up using RTV and loctite blue?

Don't use red RTV and blue thread locker

If you are going to use RTV for the front cover use ultra grey, though preferably just get the right shit. You need to use green loctite where it calls out for it. Others will not work. Green needs the surface cleaned well before applied.

[jpky16]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Don't use red RTV and blue thread locker

If you are going to use RTV for the front cover use ultra grey, though preferably just get the right shit. You need to use green loctite where it calls out for it. Others will not work. Green needs the surface cleaned well before applied.

I happened to be in the middle of doing this and wanted to make sure I did this correctly. I called my Toyota parts guy and he said they only use red or blue thread sealant, and they don't use anything "green".

As I'm sure you are aware, the service manual states:
- for the front bearing retainer: Seal Packing 1281, Three Bond 1281, or equivalent
- for the threads on the bolts: Toyota Genuine Adhesive 1344, Three Bond 1344, or equivalent.

if you google any of those substances, you come across this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...-chart-251907/


This shows that you can Loctite 242 (blue) in place of the 1344 (which the parts guy didn't even know what that was). I ended up ordering a small tube of the 1281 for the front bearing retainer from Toyota however.

Hope that helps!

[humfrz]

@Tcoat and @Ultramaroon copy @tiredtom

Can anyone help this fellow out?

"Subject: persistent clutch/trans issue - please advise
From:
tiredtom tiredtom is offline (Junior Member)
hi, im reaching out because i just made an account to make a post but never got a confirmation email so the site wont let me post anything. im waiting on the admin to get back to me. i was wondering if i could have your insight/expertise on an issue ive had for a long time.

i have a 2018 brz pp, ive owned since new. the car has only about 35k miles.

for years (off and on) ive had an issue with crunching, notchy, semi grinding gear changes. (all gears)

the clutch is oem and so is the shifter. (oem non short shifter)

i can best describe the issue as gears are difficult to get into, i get a semi grind feeling trying to get into every gear, almost every time. this happens on up and down shifts. the clutch sometimes feels gritty toward the bottom of a press. to me it feels like the grab point is lower than it used to be when the issue wasn’t happening. ive had guesses like air in the line, not fully disengaging, slave or master cyl failure, trans failure, etc.

i replaced the slave because i thought that was the cause, prior to taking it to the dealership the first time. the car has been looked at by multiple dealerships. originally i had a loud squeak coming from the top of the trans when pressing the clutch, clutch felt gritty and airy, gears hard to get into and grinding. the first dealer replaced the trans with a brand new one. the clutch and TOB was looked at and was verified to be ok. last visit after the issue came back AFTER the new transmission, they said they adjusted the push rod. i didnt have issues for about a year.

it recently came back randomly during a drive and hasn’t gone away. more so just hard to get into gears and slight grind into every gear, feeling like my clutch isnt fully disengaging. it feels like each gear i try to get into has a half step before going all the way in. it feels terrible. new dealership examined damn near everything, and everything i could think of. hydraulic system checked, no air in lines, shift cables, no leaks, trans fluid full and clean, etc. no repairs were recommended and they gave me the car back with no cause found or fix.

since getting the car back i went and looked through everything i have knowledge of and still found nothing. i finally caved and tried the pedal/pushrod adjustment both further down and further up and had no success so i put it back to around where it was. (this was a guess and i may need to adjust it again in case i didn’t do it properly. i just saw the video you recommended to someone else in another thread about how to adjust it correctly). in addition, with the first trans i tried the motul trans fluid swap which helped with the notorious 1st and 2nd notchyness, which helped that issue.. but i feel that was unrelated. and the car now has oem trans fluid since the new transmission.

one other thing, at mid-high rpm sometimes i hear a rattle from the shifter. (this started after the new trans) like when getting on the freeway etc. but not always. not sure if related at all.

please advise. im desperate at this point and dont know what to do or check. i have a case open with subaru and they have been of little help as well.

thank you for your time."

[Ultramaroon]

He sent me the same pm. @ichitaka05, can we get this guy onboarded?

[ichitaka05]

From what I can see, status said “User waiting email confirmation”… jic I’ll forward it to Hachi

[kevaughan]

Originally Posted by humfrz

@Tcoat and @Ultramaroon copy @tiredtom

Can anyone help this fellow out?

"Subject: persistent clutch/trans issue - please advise
From:
tiredtom tiredtom is offline (Junior Member)
hi, im reaching out because i just made an account to make a post but never got a confirmation email so the site wont let me post anything. im waiting on the admin to get back to me. i was wondering if i could have your insight/expertise on an issue ive had for a long time.

i have a 2018 brz pp, ive owned since new. the car has only about 35k miles.

for years (off and on) ive had an issue with crunching, notchy, semi grinding gear changes. (all gears)

the clutch is oem and so is the shifter. (oem non short shifter)

i can best describe the issue as gears are difficult to get into, i get a semi grind feeling trying to get into every gear, almost every time. this happens on up and down shifts. the clutch sometimes feels gritty toward the bottom of a press. to me it feels like the grab point is lower than it used to be when the issue wasn’t happening. ive had guesses like air in the line, not fully disengaging, slave or master cyl failure, trans failure, etc.

i replaced the slave because i thought that was the cause, prior to taking it to the dealership the first time. the car has been looked at by multiple dealerships. originally i had a loud squeak coming from the top of the trans when pressing the clutch, clutch felt gritty and airy, gears hard to get into and grinding. the first dealer replaced the trans with a brand new one. the clutch and TOB was looked at and was verified to be ok. last visit after the issue came back AFTER the new transmission, they said they adjusted the push rod. i didnt have issues for about a year.

it recently came back randomly during a drive and hasn’t gone away. more so just hard to get into gears and slight grind into every gear, feeling like my clutch isnt fully disengaging. it feels like each gear i try to get into has a half step before going all the way in. it feels terrible. new dealership examined damn near everything, and everything i could think of. hydraulic system checked, no air in lines, shift cables, no leaks, trans fluid full and clean, etc. no repairs were recommended and they gave me the car back with no cause found or fix.

since getting the car back i went and looked through everything i have knowledge of and still found nothing. i finally caved and tried the pedal/pushrod adjustment both further down and further up and had no success so i put it back to around where it was. (this was a guess and i may need to adjust it again in case i didn’t do it properly. i just saw the video you recommended to someone else in another thread about how to adjust it correctly). in addition, with the first trans i tried the motul trans fluid swap which helped with the notorious 1st and 2nd notchyness, which helped that issue.. but i feel that was unrelated. and the car now has oem trans fluid since the new transmission.

one other thing, at mid-high rpm sometimes i hear a rattle from the shifter. (this started after the new trans) like when getting on the freeway etc. but not always. not sure if related at all.

please advise. im desperate at this point and dont know what to do or check. i have a case open with subaru and they have been of little help as well.

thank you for your time."

Sorry to necro this, but I'm going through the same thing and desperate to find a solution. My regular go-to shop suggests it's the entire transmission dying/synchro issue so I have a spare tranny on standby but I'm not entire convinced it's a synchro issue.
My clutch pedal feels gritty, grindy and has texture-feeling as it travels through the stroke range. This is after they put in a new throwout bearing, new OEM clutch kit, forged fork with forged pivot, and even all new master + slave cylinder. It feels as though there is clutch drag, or the clutch is not disengaging fully. At high RPMs only, I get locked out of downshifts into 3rd and 2nd gear. I can't figure out what is wrong with the clutch pedal feeling not-smooth and at times vibrating or sticky as it travels through the range of motion. My best guess is the Front Bearing Retainer Cover (#SU003-03853) is damaged and perhaps the TOB is catching onto the grooves? Transmission and car has 208'000km on it. I don't believe that part was replaced during the last clutch job. I have nearly the same symptoms as tiredtom, but main concern is unable to downshift at high RPMs and the clutch pedal vibrating/feeling-unsmooth as it travels through the pedal stroke. Any help is appreciated.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by kevaughan

Sorry to necro this, but I'm going through the same thing and desperate to find a solution. My regular go-to shop suggests it's the entire transmission dying/synchro issue so I have a spare tranny on standby but I'm not entire convinced it's a synchro issue.
My clutch pedal feels gritty, grindy and has texture-feeling as it travels through the stroke range. This is after they put in a new throwout bearing, new OEM clutch kit, forged fork with forged pivot, and even all new master + slave cylinder. It feels as though there is clutch drag, or the clutch is not disengaging fully. At high RPMs only, I get locked out of downshifts into 3rd and 2nd gear. I can't figure out what is wrong with the clutch pedal feeling not-smooth and at times vibrating or sticky as it travels through the range of motion. My best guess is the Front Bearing Retainer Cover (#SU003-03853) is damaged and perhaps the TOB is catching onto the grooves? Transmission and car has 208'000km on it. I don't believe that part was replaced during the last clutch job. I have nearly the same symptoms as tiredtom, but main concern is unable to downshift at high RPMs and the clutch pedal vibrating/feeling-unsmooth as it travels through the pedal stroke. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry, I can't help you -

Hopefully someone will come along with some help.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by kevaughan

My best guess is the Front Bearing Retainer Cover (#SU003-03853) is damaged and perhaps the TOB is catching onto the grooves?

Yup. Rookie design flaw. I've written on the aspect ratio issue. I proofread and edited here.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

It's not the clutch, it's the sleeve in the TOB. The cylinder's height to diameter (aspect ratio) is too low. That makes it extra vulnerable to binding, which begins the fretting process. The wear exacerbates the binding, which wears the grooves deeper and...

That plastic part could easily be molded so the contact cylinder extends a little further back behind the bearing-to-fork pivot axis, it would completely eliminate the issue.

[Muskoka800]

I used Permatex Ultra Grey and blue Loctite for this same operation 5 years ago and have had zero issues to date.
My Ontario dealer also recommended Ultra when I called for Three Bond which I later saw from an online source priced like gold in comparison.
Good Luck!

[RToyo86]

I ended up buying the 1281 from dealer(# 00295-01281)
Has to use it twice. First install with early build BG TOB caused some issues.

Revised TOB with Teflon coated cover with Valvoline VV985 grease on everything is fairing much better. It's a grittier thicker grease that was recommended by BG.