camber plates and rough roads question.

[7 skulls]

I have been searching and reading since I am considering getting Vorshlag High caster camber plates with oem perches to solve outside edge wear on my MPSSs. I know crash bolts are another opinion. But the roads around here are crap and I am concerned about slippage. Are camber plates prone to sliding loose in their adjustments?
I figure I can have my camber set at 1.5 neg camber and have my toe centered in its stock spec. That way I can adjust the camber as needed while keeping the toe in its range. All I have read states that on these cars toe does not change much with camber adjustments. Thanks.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Camber plates generally won't slip.

Worth noting that if your roads are really crap you will notice a difference in ride quality with the plates.

- Andrew

[cjd]

I've, um... well, let's say I've tested some slightly extreme conditions. Zero slipping on my Raceseng camber plates. For that matter, none on the Tein plates on some roads that made me wish I was driving a boat... Brutally painful.

I have had camber bolts slip, though on a different car (I've never run them on this platform.)

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Camber plates generally won't slip.

Worth noting that if your roads are really crap you will notice a difference in ride quality with the plates.

- Andrew

How about average crap roads?

[churchx]

My answer to this were powerflex bushings PFF69-801G (or PFF69-801GBLK). They (in addition to SPC & Whiteline camberbolts in both lower strut holes) allowed me to keep stock rubber topmounts for NVH sake on crap roads, while get -3 camber front at stock height. Given even more camber due natural camber gain if car is lowered, imho should be sufficient for somewhat even wear on track, as -3 to -3.5 seems commonly mentioned as dialed camber for HPDE purpose alignment.
Of course one still needs rear LCAs to up camber there too.
P.S.
Given that you wish just -1.5 camber, that should be doable with just one camberbolt set, eg. SPC's. Adding Whiteline's camberbolts to these will up max camber to -2.2. And powerflex bushing to -3.

[7 skulls]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Ride quality is a good point. The Vorshlag perches allow for the use of all the stock components including the OEM rubber spring isolator so it should be similar to stock for ride.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by churchx

My answer to this were powerflex bushings PFF69-801G (or PFF69-801GBLK). They (in addition to SPC & Whiteline camberbolts in both lower strut holes) allowed me to keep stock rubber topmounts for NVH sake on crap roads, while get -3 camber front at stock height. Given even more camber due natural camber gain if car is lowered, imho should be sufficient for somewhat even wear on track, as -3 to -3.5 seems commonly mentioned as dialed camber for HPDE purpose alignment.
Of course one still needs rear LCAs to up camber there too.
P.S.
Given that you wish just -1.5 camber, that should be doable with just one camberbolt set, eg. SPC's. Adding Whiteline's camberbolts to these will up max camber to -2.2. And powerflex bushing to -3.

I know we've talked about these before, but do you have a picture of them installed?

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

How about average crap roads?

If your roads are averagely crap you will probably still notice them. The roads here range from kinda crap to really crap

The good camber plates will be quiet, but compared to OEM rubber mounts there will always be a change in harshness.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by 7 skulls

Thanks for the replies everyone. Ride quality is a good point. The Vorshlag perches allow for the use of all the stock components including the OEM rubber spring isolator so it should be similar to stock for ride.

You will still notice a change, as you're taking out the OEM rubber top mount.

- Andrew

[finch1750]

I know camber bolts can slip but I have not experienced it yet on this car. I run SPC in the lower hole and OEM crash bolts in the upper hole. I drive roads that are bad enough to bend one of my TE37s and one of my camber plates on my old coilovers (it mushroomed and had to be hammered out of the strut tower). I seem to have more problems with toe getting knocked out of spec.


Might be worth it to try bolts (and ensure they are properly torqued) instead of adding NVH from camber plates given that bolts are so cheap.

[churchx]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I know we've talked about these before, but do you have a picture of them installed?

Nope. I'll try to remember when it's daylight again to seek some estacade to take pics from below, but no promise. Though imho there is not much to gain in seeing them installed, just instead of stock rear bushing of front LCA, which you probably seen plenty, a bit more stiff polyurethane one with eccentric metal insert with teethed end that can turned with supplied tool. Construction wise it's simpler to see looks of them unmounted. From things to note, shop, that did install of them, told that on one side that tool was unusable to reach for turning, so they just used screwdriver and hammer instead to turn . First dialled at max neg. camber position of these bushings, tightened, then dialled extra camber and fine adjusted it even both sides in normal way, using camber bolts. During install front bushing was replaced too (with whiteline's, for extra caster (PF's #1, WL's #2). As original bushings where removed using press, i guess it might be a bit harder for DIY vs just camberbolts. Still, i find it as do it once, set & forget item. For realigning in future in imho easier to reach and a bit finer way there are camberbolts too after all. Just that now camber range is moved slightly more negative, and that's done w/o slotting or having to resort to camberplates with pillowball mount. When whiteline failed with making non-binding Com-C mounts, they could have made this bushing too instead.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

If your roads are averagely crap you will probably still notice them. The roads here range from kinda crap to really crap

The good camber plates will be quiet, but compared to OEM rubber mounts there will always be a change in harshness.

- Andrew

All kidding aside. I've been waffling between slotting and installing plates for over a year. I don't see a good argument for camber plates.

[churchx]

Ultramaroon: Given how i now can get wished camber also by other means, imho main pro argument left for camberplates might be relative ease of on-site DIY camber adjustment. I don't care about such, just keep driving with one alignment, so that isn't worth much for me. Also, how much camber do you need and are you lowered or not? Maybe you can get by w. those PF bushings too instead of slotting?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by churchx

Ultramaroon: Given how i now can get wished camber also by other means, imho main pro argument left for camberplates might be relative ease of on-site DIY camber adjustment. I don't care about such, just keep driving with one alignment, so that isn't worth much for me. Also, how much camber do you need and are you lowered or not? Maybe you can get by w. those PF bushings too instead of slotting?

I have been following the suspension discussions since I started here. My goal is to get that magical -3 degrees plus a little wiggle room out of my bone stock suspension using the least invasive technique possible.