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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#1 |
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Could use some suspension advice
Hey there, I have a 14 BRZ that I bought from a guy with 7400 miles on it a while ago. The car was mostly a garage queen (hence the low miles). Comically, the dude's daily was a leased GT-R he would trade out every few months with the Nissan Technical Center.
Anyway, I bought the car with said low mileage and slapped some Eibach Pro-kit springs on the stock dampers plus an alignment. Most everything I read said that I'd be fine to do this. Fast forward about 4k miles and the shocks are completely shot and bouncy as all hell. My guess is that they weren't used enough and so seals dried up and then with the lower springs and garbage roads they blew very quickly. Moving forward, I don't have a ton of money to spend. I'm looking at about $1300-$1500 for the new set up (not including alignment, but is already budgeted separately). I am kinda okay with the drop the pro kit gave me, but I'd like it just a smidge lower. It seems to sit about 3/4" below stock and I'd like to push that to 1-1.25". Something to eat up that last bit of gap with my wheels. The ride (when it wasn't shit) was pretty okay. It was a bit harsh and didn't feel much stiffer except on turn in (I'll elaborate on what I'd like ride wise in a minute). Usage of the car is very much a year round DD. I live in the rust belt, so please advise accordingly. The car will see a handful of autocrosses over the summer and maybe one track day a year (and that's a very strong maybe). Generally speaking, I'll be driving to and from work and cruising down winding roads that I live near. The suspension really won't be pushed to any limit for the majority of its life. Ride wise, I only need something that is "comfortable". I know this is subjective as hell, but something stiffer than stock but not too much harsher is ideal. Potholes where I live can quickly become craters and despite how much I slalom in my lane I will inevitably hit a few. I'd like my spine to stay in my back for most of them if at all possible. As for options I've been looking at mostly coilovers but am now starting to think picking up a set of upgraded shocks wouldn't be a bad idea. The coilovers I'd most likely buy are Bilstein B14s, KWv1s (the stainless steel ones), Fortune Auto 500s (without swift springs upgrade), or Tein Flex Zs. I liked the idea of coilovers because I could raise the car up in winter to not use the front bumper as a snow plow (which admittedly is rare, I live on a major road and the road commission does a fine job). I've been looking around these forums quite a lot and now I'm having second thoughts and that maybe getting upgraded shocks is a better idea instead of coilovers. Some threads I read said that a decent spring/shock combo will outperform most stuff in this $1-2k range. I know this is a massive wall of text but from reading these threads I wanted to provide as much info as possible as that clearly determines what advice I'll receive. I read too many goddamn threads with OP going "What coils should I buy lol" with no extra info and then they peace out for the rest of the thread never to elaborate on their needs. I am trying to not be that guy. Thanks for reading and any advice on the most cost effective direction based on my needs would be greatly appreciated. PS: I could use some help with what I'll need for camber adjustment for a 1" drop. Can I use only camber plates? Do I have to buy camber bolts and rear LCA if the setup comes with plates? My understanding is that for that amount of drop you can get away with camber plates but if using stock tophats I'll want the bolts and control arms. I fully admit that I could be totally wrong. Once again, huge thanks for the help! |
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#2 |
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Easy button is to just add Bilstein B6 shocks and call it a day. I'd add camber bolts up front and rear LCAs to get the alignment dialed in just right and improve handling. You don't need camber plates. Get the Whiteline 14mm camber bolts, put them in the bottom strut mount hole, and move the bottom bolt to the top hole. The SPC rear LCA is a fine choice for you as well. Make sure you have a good shop do the alignment. Aim for -2 degrees camber front and -1.8 degrees rear. 0 toe front, tiny bit of rear toe in.
If you really want a little more drop than the Prokits give you then coilovers would be the way to go IMO. In your price range the Bilstein B14 and KW V1 are solid choices. I don't have first hand experience with the Teins or FA coilovers. - Andrew |
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Assassin4Hire13 (06-20-2017), dattran86 (06-20-2017), Gforce (06-19-2017), smg1138 (06-19-2017), Tcoat (06-19-2017) |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
Why not the B12? Eibach recommend B12s for the Sportline spring. |
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#4 |
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@JD001, I have the Prokits not the sportlines. I assume that's why Racecomp recommended the B6s
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Assassin4Hire13 For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (06-19-2017) |
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#5 |
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Eibach pairs the B12 with either of the 2 spring types:
https://eibach.com/de/en/products/st...ension-systems |
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#6 |
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+1 to everything Racecomp said, that's exactly what I would do to a T. If you get serious about autox performance the B14's can be revalved and linear rate springs added for about $1k investment over the initial $1k purchase, camber plates will go a long way to being STX competitive after putting on good tires, but sounds like your a casual autox-er.
Can you find a place to buy B12's on their own? All I can find is Tirerack selling it as a set with the springs, it honestly looks like it's just a set of B6/8 paired with lowering springs. Edit: A set of used dampers might be worth it on the cheap, and maybe selling a set of softer coilovers for a stiffer set off the shelf is worth the investment over revalving your existing set. Last edited by strat61caster; 06-19-2017 at 04:20 PM. |
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | Assassin4Hire13 (06-20-2017), JD001 (06-19-2017), Racecomp Engineering (06-19-2017), Shark_Bait88 (06-19-2017), Tcoat (06-19-2017) |
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#7 |
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I fit B6 with stock springs. They work great.
They should be as good with the aftermarket springs. For your intended use I'd buy a set of 2017 model year springs and the new rear roll bar and fit B6 all round. Or, if you can find somebody "upgrading" their 2017 already ditching the excellent Sachs shocks, new springs and roll bars then buy the full shebang from that wealthy individual. |
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#8 |
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The B12 is a kit with springs, and I assume it includes the B8 "sport" shock.
In general I don't recommend the B8 shock over the B6 since it's the same valving, just slightly less droop travel. No real gain. - Andrew |
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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Assassin4Hire13 (06-20-2017), JD001 (06-19-2017) |
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#9 |
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So it sounds like I should get B6s as B8s won't offer me much more for the price. Now, I know this could be googled but what are the spring rates for the pro kit vs say RCE yellows (as well as the yellows drop). I find the Eibachs to be bouncy but that might also be the shocks. I think I'll try the B6s with the eibachs but should I not like those I might do rce yellows. Would those be better with a different shock than the B6?
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#10 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8739 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | Assassin4Hire13 (06-20-2017) |
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#11 |
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Aaand bookmarked. Thanks!
Noob question, how do you thank a post? There's a few in here that deserve it |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Assassin4Hire13 For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (06-20-2017) |
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#12 |
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You'll see the button after you make 10 posts.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | Assassin4Hire13 (06-20-2017) |
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#13 | |
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#14 |
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Another thing you can consider is picking up someone's stock suspension for dirt cheap and swap that back during the winter. It's cheap if you can do the work yourself minus twice a year alignments.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jidonsu For This Useful Post: | guybo (06-20-2017) |
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