Recommended floor jack for a lowered BRZ that can easily be transported to the track?

[Pat]

It's time to replace my old jack. I've rebuilt it a couple times and it just isn't getting the job done anymore. After a bit of research it looks like Harbor Freight is the best value in jacks. I know they're not great quality, but most really good quality aluminum low-profile jacks are big money. If you were to buy a low-profile, lightweight jack to bring to the track and also serve as your only floor jack for work in the garage, what would it be?

These are the two leading contenders after my research. I'm leaning toward the 2 ton jack for the extra couple inches of lift:
China Freight 1.5 ton
China Freight 2 ton

[hpde_addict]

I use the 1.5 ton version for track days. It's size and weight is a huge plus if you're lazy. Not much lift height, but I don't need any more to get the tire a couple of inches off the ground to swap brake pads and tires. If I did all my car work at home, I'd get a second "heavy duty" floor jack.

[skylinekin]

I have the first one, works great for track use.

[mitch t]

IMHO, I would get two different jacks, one for the track, and a different one for the garage. the HF aluminum jacks are super lightweigh and convenient for the track, where you just barely need to get the wheels off the ground, but the 1.5 ton unit is extremely flimsy whe you try to jack the car up far enough to work underneath it.

never, EVER get under a car supported by the jack. always put something under it so that you cannot get trapped by a jack failure. even if you are on the side of the road, throw a wheel under the car (you dont have to set the car on it, as long as it is there in an emergency) before you get under it.

HF makes a steel super low clearance jack that is ultra low, sturdy, and HEAVY. perfect for the shop, terrible for the road.

they are cheap enough now that you can easily afford them both.

[strat61caster]

My roommate has the 1.5T and my father has the 2T iirc, maybe they're both 1.5 due to the lighter weight idk.

They work fantastic compared to some old worn out equipment, however I'd wager if used heavily it will start to show it's age in ~5 years and you may be looking to replace it by then.

[finch1750]

The 1.5 is fine to swap tires or brake pads. Light too. Just get a better one for home use (like the heavy, low profile HF one already mentioned)

[ka-t_240]

I have used the harbor freight jacks for 10 years, first one lasted 8 year with no maintenance other than making sure all the bolts were tight. Got weak, but couldn't open the filler to add more oil. Dumped it and got another one for 70 bucks. It was used for everything at home as well as at our shop to get the car on the hoist.

[renfield90]

You can get under the car with the 1.5 ton, just takes some work. No, you won't have as much space as with other jacks, but I find it good enough to do everything I need to do.

Frankly I can't imagine trying to drag anything bigger or heavier than the 1.5 ton to the track. I've quit bringing mine to local events unless there's a good reason or I'm changing tires on site.

[slyphen]

what do you guys think about just using the scissor jack with a power tool bit adapter. of course this will only be swapping brakes and tires. also, when you guys swapping out tires/brakes, where do you put the jack? do you lift front/back, or on the sides. if you are doing it on the side, where do you put the jack point? middle of the chassis or at the notched pinch welds near the front/rear?

I was using the scissor jack to swap wheels by lifting around the middle of the chassis on the pinch weld. is this a bad thing to do?

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by slyphen

what do you guys think about just using the scissor jack with a power tool bit adapter. of course this will only be swapping brakes and tires. also, when you guys swapping out tires/brakes, where do you put the jack? do you lift front/back, or on the sides. if you are doing it on the side, where do you put the jack point? middle of the chassis or at the notched pinch welds near the front/rear?

I was using the scissor jack to swap wheels by lifting around the middle of the chassis on the pinch weld. is this a bad thing to do?

The scissor jack is largely meant to lift one corner at a time (hence the notches). It's rather flimsy and I wouldn't trust it to repeatedly lift one whole side of the car.

Also...you have power tools, but are using the scissor jack? Come on man. Spend a little bit of coin on a cheap hydraulic jack and you will make your life infinitely better. My first jack cost me $30 and is still in working order 11 years later.

[strat61caster]

No on the scissor jack, only meant to lift one corner at a time.

I highly prefer lifting the front/rear of the car as the manual suggests with the front crossmember or differential, the 1.5T Harbor Freight jack is a workhorse and a set of jackstands mean you can do just about anything on this car.

[Lunatic]

I have the 2 ton and it's been working great for me for several years. Long before I got the FRS.

[slyphen]

Originally Posted by renfield90

The scissor jack is largely meant to lift one corner at a time (hence the notches). It's rather flimsy and I wouldn't trust it to repeatedly lift one whole side of the car.

Also...you have power tools, but are using the scissor jack? Come on man. Spend a little bit of coin on a cheap hydraulic jack and you will make your life infinitely better. My first jack cost me $30 and is still in working order 11 years later.

Oh I have a jack, got the low profile 2ton HF jack. but the thing weighs like 120lbs and is a pain in the ass to move it around. and even with that jack i have to use 2x4s to drive the rear onto or it'll hit the muffler before getting to the diff jacking point.

I suppose i'll buy one of the light weight jack mentioned here and just bring my 2x4s to get enough clearance.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

My roommate has the 1.5T and my father has the 2T iirc, maybe they're both 1.5 due to the lighter weight idk.

They work fantastic compared to some old worn out equipment, however I'd wager if used heavily it will start to show it's age in ~5 years and you may be looking to replace it by then.

Mine is about 10 years old and just now getting weak. Most of my friends have been through multiple in that time. YMMV.