Gauge install, dash cluster light cable, Tach RPM cable help...

[King Tut]

I will try to grab a picture when I get off work today.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I will try to grab a picture when I get off work today.

Looking forward to it.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Looking forward to it.

Welp, I blew it. I didn't get home till after dark, and I didn't get the picture. Will give it another shot tonight.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Welp, I blew it. I didn't get home till after dark, and I didn't get the picture. Will give it another shot tonight.

No problem my friend, we'll wait for you!

[Lonely Sushi]

Well!
Got my tach signal... its strange that my car doesnt have the certified ECU assembly on there, I see the mounting you are talking about but there was nothing on it. do you guys have the "Smart Entry & Start System" ? I re-checked the wiring diagram and it might be that my FRS doesnt have it so it didnt come with that assembly (just a guess)?

anyways, initially when I found the A35 pin 15 connector to be an empty pin with no wires coming out of it, I didnt want to just hook it up and see if it works without checking it. So today I finally pulled out my oscilloscope and checked that pin to find a nice clean signal coming out of it. Found some pins laying around and hooked that wire up to my IQ3 and there we have it! tach signal

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Lonely Sushi

Well!
Got my tach signal... its strange that my car doesnt have the certified ECU assembly on there, I see the mounting you are talking about but there was nothing on it. do you guys have the "Smart Entry & Start System" ? I re-checked the wiring diagram and it might be that my FRS doesnt have it so it didnt come with that assembly (just a guess)?

anyways, initially when I found the A35 pin 15 connector to be an empty pin with no wires coming out of it, I didnt want to just hook it up and see if it works without checking it. So today I finally pulled out my oscilloscope and checked that pin to find a nice clean signal coming out of it. Found some pins laying around and hooked that wire up to my IQ3 and there we have it! tach signal

Yep, we have the "smart" entry system, that might be it.

[King Tut]

Tada. The infamous certification ECU box. You can see my green wire from the AEM Failsafe gauge:

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Tada. The infamous certification ECU box. You can see my green wire from the AEM Failsafe gauge:

Thanks you so much!!

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I have the dimmer wire hooked up properly to my AEM gauge which allows the dimmer circuit to be either 0 to 12v or 12 to 0v. Unfortunetly, the difference in V between dim and not dim is not enough to change the gauge. I would recommend just leaving that wire unhooked. As for RPM, there are a couple wires that you can use:

Pin 17 on connector D48 Gray Wire
Pin 15 on connector A35 Gray/Red Wire

I haven't gotten around to trying either of these yet though.

FINALLY tapped into it. Now ready to logging with the Failsafe!

[F1point4]

is tapping into the RPM/tach wire necessary for operation? Right now i'm not particularly interested in the datalogging feature. Just want to know realtime AFR/Boost. Thanks

[F1point4]

Thanks everyone for their input. This thread was valuable


Notes from my journal.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=253

Originally Posted by F1point4

AEM Wideband Failsafe (AFR/Boost)

I already alluded to my desire to add a gauge. I as all on the boost gauge bandwagon but @Chris@Phastek and @Do Boy convinced me to install a wideband AFR sensor.

I also did not want gauges on my steering column and A-Pillar. I am a big fan of using the ATI vent pod mount because it keeps everything discrete from wandering eyes.

I still did want to have boost so I had to look for combo gauges. I decided to buy like one out of the two combo AFR/Boost gauges on the market: AEM Wideband Failsafe

With this lack of choice, I did feel good that AEM is a reputable company, it was a mechanical boost gauge (i prefer this), comes with the bosch Wideband UEGO sensor, and has a datalogger. Even has a failsafe signal that can kill the engine in case your car leans out..

My only concerns were how to wire this to the car. Being a universal gauge we are on our own. A good thread below inspired confidence in me.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=77


I didn't have too much time to install and take pictures of everything. Here are some quick thoughts and photos I did take.

Quick feedback:
+ The ATI vent pod is a 60mm pod. This gauge is 52mm in size which I believe is common. Lucky for me ATI makes a 60 to 52mm pod adapter!
+ I didn't connect the dimmer wire. The gauge is easily read in all conditions so I don't plan to connect the wires.
+ the screen is OLED and has a fast refresh rate.
+ I ended up drilling three holes in my AC vent to run all the wiring to the gauge (I don't have a picture of this yet)
+ The 7/64" ID vacuum hose supplied is too short to run to the engine bay. I had to buy hose from O'Reilly's auto parts.
+ the data logging feature does work without the RPM signal wire connected to the car. I'm going to connect it later.
+ You can configure the gauge using only USB power. No need to hook the gauge to the car's power, or turn on the ignition to use the USB configuration function.
+ you can show boost in several units of meaures, show AFR, lamda, etc. Pretty much whatever to your choosing. THey provide face plates for the different modes.
+ Data output is very quick. Torque was mostly consistent with the gauge except it was slightly slower even though I had the Scantool OBDLink MX. One glaring difference was that the reading is different when the car cuts fuel because the drivetrain is spinning the crank under momentun. Torque read 14.7 AFR and this read 18. I think the UEGO sensor wins here.
+ Air can still go out around the pod. You cannot freely rotate the pod like you could the OEM vents. You cannot aim the airflow out this vent anymore nor close the airflow. It is more noisier when you have the fan on 2 or higher.

I hope you guys like pictures. Let's have at it

Here is the entire AEM kit laid out. I don't show the ATI vent pod or the adapter. Comes with everything you need. I'll go through stuff in more detail.

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-017 by VictorN07, on Flickr


Danbo showing off the gauge. The gauge has a center display and a digital meter along its perimeter.

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-013 by VictorN07, on Flickr

The Bosch Wideband LSU4.2 UEGO sensor

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-015 by VictorN07, on Flickr

The UEGO sensor harness, USB extension cord, and gauge harness

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-022 by VictorN07, on Flickr

O2 Sensor bung. I did not use this as one was provided by my welder in my previous post

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-027 by VictorN07, on Flickr


This is the gauge harness separated and wrapped in loom. I split out the
harness into three sections
+USB,
+Ignition power and ground,
+Sensor wires (pretty much the rest
I got all of that through one grommet

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-038 by VictorN07, on Flickr

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-037 by VictorN07, on Flickr


You can see me start to drill holes in the AC duct work. I ended up drilling three holes.
+ For the harness above
+ The UEGO Harness
+ and the vacuum hose

20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-040 by VictorN07, on Flickr

For the boost portion I had to tap into a vacuum source. The brake booster line was perfect. I already tapped into it once, and didn't want to do it again....so I decided to copy what @Do Boy did and install a vacuum manifold into my engine bay. I can drive many vacuum accessories off of this block, but I am only using it to drive the boost gauge and Vortech Bypass valve.

20130616-AEMWidebandGaugePics-057 by VictorN07, on Flickr


The finished engine bay

20130616-AEMWidebandGaugePics-068 by VictorN07, on Flickr


I have some plans for a diagonal brace and strut tower bar. Since I knew I was changing them out I temporary mounted my vacuum manifold on top of an extra set of the vibration dampeners from the u-bolts i had for the catch cans. (see previous post).
The side of the manifold is my input from the brake booster line.

20130616-AEMWidebandGaugePics-073 by VictorN07, on Flickr


To the bottom right of the catch can you can see the plug for the UEGO sensor. It's zipped tied there for easy access. This is another clear view of the vibration dampened U bolts used on the catch can.

20130616-AEMWidebandGaugePics-077 by VictorN07, on Flickr

A clear shot from above of the UEGO sensor in the newly welded bung

20130616-AEMWidebandGaugePics-081 by VictorN07, on Flickr


Finished! You can clearly see the ATI 60mm vend pod, and the 60 to 52mm adapter (rubber ring). I did have to cut the gauge plastic securing brace down so it would fit properly to the 60 to 52mm adapter.

20130616-AEMWidebandFailsafeFinished-007 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20130616-AEMWidebandFailsafeFinished-019 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20130615-AEMWidebandGaugePics-055 by VictorN07, on Flickr

I'll take some more clear pictures of how i wired up the RPM sensor and what the fully drilled out AC ducting looks like soon.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by F1point4

is tapping into the RPM/tach wire necessary for operation? Right now i'm not particularly interested in the datalogging feature. Just want to know realtime AFR/Boost. Thanks

Sorry for the stupidly late reply but no, not needed (you already figured it out but still )

[protpibe]

Just used the grey wire that King Tut posted and it worked like a charm.

Thanks!

[rb6freak]

Originally Posted by ecko04

Apologies if i'm stating something that has already been said.

Switched 12v can be found in the radio harness. In the white 10 pin plug, pin 3, red wire. I believe, I haven't checked, the radio is fused at 10 amps, there's no need to add an inline fuse, but you can if you desire.

Illumination/Dimmer (+,-) can also be found in the radio harness. In the white 10 pin plug, pin 10; white 6 pin plug, pin 5. Purple (parking lights); Black/White (dimmer).



The reliable place for the tachometer signal is at the camshaft position sensor on pass side of engine, gry 3 pin plg, pin 2. green/white

Once again, sorry if these were answered previously.

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Thanks for the info!! I'll try that pin 10 for Ill+/-

The tach signal, it is strongly advised to not use the crankshaft sensor for it.

So, did you ever try this pin 10 for Ill? I'm in the middle of connecting my gauge and I'm looking to connect this last wire.