07-19-2012, 04:46 PM | #29 |
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I know the safety clip is a peace-of-mind thing, and I really do support stuff like that. However, if it's a PITA to work with, just leave it off. I have a Fumoto valve on my RallyX car and I don't use the clip. It has never opened or leaked.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Draco-REX For This Useful Post: | ill86 (07-24-2012) |
07-23-2012, 12:56 AM | #30 |
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Nice write-up. I'm doing my oil change this week and I have to agree that Amsoil make fine products. I used the Amsoil manual gear lube for my 240sx and the oil was great, smooth shifts like butter.
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07-24-2012, 10:16 AM | #31 |
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Oil Consumption and the BRZ D-S4 Boxer
After nearly 2,800 miles of mixed driving, I was surprised to discover that I used one full quart of 0w-20 synthetic motor oil in my 2013 BRZ. I understand that this new, naturally aspirated boxer engine runs at a relatively high 12.5:1 compression ratio, and that the stock oil is a very lightweight 0w-20, but even so, I was surprised by the engine’s consumption. I did heed the owner’s manual recommendation of “driving nicely” and not exceeding 4,000 RPM during the first 1,000 miles and further realize that during the break-in period on some engines, oil consumption can be higher while the rings seat, and so on, but I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience with their D-S4 Boxer? Thanks, Cobra Joe |
07-24-2012, 01:16 PM | #32 | |
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07-24-2012, 02:24 PM | #33 | |
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I've still got the stock oil in the crankcase as delivered. I have checked the level frequently and first noticed the need to add about a half a quart at about 1,500 miles. I added the other half quart just recently shortly after a 1,100 mile road trip from Southern CT to Bangor Maine and back with about 2,800 on the ODO. |
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07-24-2012, 04:07 PM | #34 | |
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jokes aside, have you seen any oil leaks under your car? |
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07-24-2012, 04:23 PM | #35 | |
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Is mobil 1 a bad idea? It's about the only 0-20 oil i can find locally for a reasonable price. It's like $6.50 a quart at wally world. I just don't want to spend $10 a quart if I can help it.. But I guess if it's too thin and leads to consumption, then I better pony up and get some thing better. I haven't done my first change yet. I'm nearing 1000 miles and figured I'd do the change at about that point. |
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07-24-2012, 04:29 PM | #36 | |
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07-24-2012, 04:41 PM | #37 |
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WOOT! Ordered 4 of the Fumoto valves. So freaking cool!
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07-25-2012, 10:17 AM | #38 | |
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The car is garaged and no leaks are evident so far. The bulk of my consumption seems to have taken place during a rather long July 4th road trip from New Haven CT to Bangor ME and back, approximately 800 miles total. I had about 1,500 miles on the BRZ at the start of the trip and during the return leg, with about 2,200 miles on the ODO, I drove fairly hard for the last 200 miles or so on high-speed interstates, non-stop. I'm thinking that maybe the combination of high temps, the stock "break in" oil in the crankcase and long duration "spirited" non-stop driving on the return leg may have contributed to the excessive consumption. Funny thing is when I picked up my 4-banger Hyundai Elantra Touring wagon back in 2009, I made virtually the same road trip with only 200 miles on the ODO and didn't burn a drop of oil, nor does it now with 25k on it! Last edited by iwantmybrz; 07-25-2012 at 10:19 AM. Reason: typo |
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07-25-2012, 10:32 AM | #39 | |
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I'm not convinced the consumption of M1 in turbo EJs was any greater than for other 5w30 Energy Conserving oils, just that M1 is the first oil any newbie enthusiast thinks of before they find NASIOC. Things that are different: -The "Advanced Fuel Economy" varieties of M1 have always been substantially different from "regular" M1, general consensus is they have a much higher proportion of PAO in the base stock. This is especially true comparing 5w30 to 0w20. 5w30 EC oils achieve their fuel savings by shearing to a 20wt, while 20wt oils are generally more shear stable. Here's a UOA in a tuned Forester XT with M1 AFE 0w30 showing it stayed in grade. - The high consumption was observed during the API SM/ILSAC GF-4 era. The API SN/ILSAC GF-5 formulations of M1 are substantially different. - The applications are dramatically different. Comparing a turbo EJ to the FA20 is so apples and oranges as to be meaningless. Turbos beat the snot out of oil. Direct injection in many applications does too, but in a different way. My brief research into the IS350 (D4-S) indicates it's much easier on oil than say, a direct injected Audi, let's hope that bodes well for the FA20. The 3.6R engine, being N/A and having a timing chain is at least as similar to the FA20 as an EJ engine, and my Dad has had great UOAs with AFE 0w30 in his Outback 3.6R. Never consumed a drop. Being that M1 AFE 0w20 is one of the most available and affordable 0w20 oils out there, I think we should give it a chance. For the auto-X, track day, and desert dwellers among us it makes a great pair with AFE 0w30. 0w20 in the winter, 0w30 in the summer. The additive packages are likely identical, meaning there are no compatibility concerns when switching back and forth. |
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07-25-2012, 10:51 AM | #40 |
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07-26-2012, 10:43 AM | #41 |
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Is the oil drain plug magnetic? I've always been drawn to use Fumoto valves but I worry about losing the magnetic pickup.
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07-26-2012, 12:50 PM | #42 |
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[QUOTE=iwantmybrz;334998]Oil Consumption and the BRZ D-S4 Boxer
After nearly 2,800 miles of mixed driving, I was surprised to discover that I used one full quart of 0w-20 synthetic motor oil in my 2013 BRZ. I understand that this new, naturally aspirated boxer engine runs at a relatively high 12.5:1 compression ratio, and that the stock oil is a very lightweight 0w-20, but even so, I was surprised by the engine’s consumption. I did heed the owner’s manual recommendation of “driving nicely” and not exceeding 4,000 RPM during the first 1,000 miles and further realize that during the break-in period on some engines, oil consumption can be higher while the rings seat, and so on, but I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience with their D-S4 Boxer? Thanks, I'm at 2100 miles on my BRZ. Still have the OEM oil in it. Amazed at the fact that there has been zero oil consumption. The oil level is at the same spot on the dip stick since the day I brought it home. Smack dab on the full mark. Also I noticed that the oil is hardly changing color in this car. I'm going with Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20, probably change the OEM oil at 3,000 miles. Then change every 5,000 miles. The OEM oil is actually a very good oil and has a very high level of Moly so I'll leave it in for a while longer.
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