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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 08-27-2014, 01:05 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Sleepless View Post
You corded the insides? Front or rear?

Looks like they could have used a touch more air to wear them middle more evenly. What pressures (hot) are you running?
I have been running 35-36 psi front and 34-35 psi rear (hot) which is what most people run and I corded the inside edge on only one tire (front passenger side) and I think it happened because firstly the tires are simply worn out after 40+ heat cycles and about 4-5k highway miles on them and secondly I forgot to rotate the tires after the previous event and at the last event they finally gave up since there are a lot of hard left turns at RMP which puts a lot of stress on the front passenger tire
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:35 PM   #114
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they were really good when they lasted

That's a bit uneven wear. I hate it when that happens
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:48 PM   #115
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I'm guessing they have a lot of freeway miles to and from the track. Given the camber you run, that would explain cording the insides. Definitely got your money's worth
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:13 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
they were really good when they lasted

what tires were those?
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:39 AM   #117
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That's a bit uneven wear. I hate it when that happens
I've checked them again before the guys at the Discount Tire store toss them and it was not too bad I cannot wait to try the new Z214s they've installed today
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I'm guessing they have a lot of freeway miles to and from the track. Given the camber you run, that would explain cording the insides. Definitely got your money's worth
Exactly, they lasted forever
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what tires were those?
Nitto NT01s
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:20 PM   #118
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Always uneven wear in race-track form due to much more camber vs street.

I've never had a tire cord in the middle, ever. I've corded the outside due to a complete lack of camber and the tire rolling over on itself but other than that it's always the inside. You can only minimize this by often rotating your tires and even flipping them on the rims (more $$$) but once they do cord, they cord on the inside.

Just the nature of the beast. Cem could have gotten a few more cycles out of that tire though through flipping/rotation but having 40 sessions on them is pretty damn good, hard to feel bad about that.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:02 PM   #119
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I've checked them again before the guys at the Discount Tire store toss them and it was not too bad I cannot wait to try the new Z214s they've installed today


Exactly, they lasted forever

Nitto NT01s
I knew NT01s lasted a long time but I never dared take them down to the cord. Don't most tech inspections call for at least 2/32" of tread left? I imagine from there the tire must wear really quickly or at least lose a good deal of grip no?
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:22 PM   #120
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I knew NT01s lasted a long time but I never dared take them down to the cord. Don't most tech inspections call for at least 2/32" of tread left? I imagine from there the tire must wear really quickly or at least lose a good deal of grip no?
How do you measure tread depth on a tire with no tread?

I'm kidding, I know there's depth-holes in non-treaded tires like RR's or R6s. But still..

RA1s (shaved), RR's, NT-01s should be disposed of only after they cord. Cords can get pretty ugly before the tire gives up, more often than not, you'll notice a big loss in traction before any loss of air occurs.

This one probably did more than 5-10 laps looking like that. I'm not advocating this at all, just an example. If I see any cording at all, that tire is done but if I know the tires are low but not yet cording... I run those puppies!

(Not mine, but the guy I paddocked with)
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:44 AM   #121
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I knew NT01s lasted a long time but I never dared take them down to the cord. Don't most tech inspections call for at least 2/32" of tread left? I imagine from there the tire must wear really quickly or at least lose a good deal of grip no?
I wasn't planning to run them to the cords either I just noticed that soon after I received my new Z214s .. Also many people run them to the cords and the dots are the only indicator when you have no tread on the tires
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:46 AM   #122
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Originally Posted by rice_classic View Post
How do you measure tread depth on a tire with no tread?

I'm kidding, I know there's depth-holes in non-treaded tires like RR's or R6s. But still..

RA1s (shaved), RR's, NT-01s should be disposed of only after they cord. Cords can get pretty ugly before the tire gives up, more often than not, you'll notice a big loss in traction before any loss of air occurs.


This one probably did more than 5-10 laps looking like that. I'm not advocating this at all, just an example. If I see any cording at all, that tire is done but if I know the tires are low but not yet cording... I run those puppies!

(Not mine, but the guy I paddocked with)
exactly
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:58 AM   #123
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a video taken at the last ORP club event (2014-8-30) I was able to improve my best lap time by 4 seconds!! thanks to Raybestos ST43 pads and the new Z214s..

It started soon after my second session and never stopped :/ next time, I should be able to squeeze another second or two
[ame="http://youtu.be/hIgpo7q_6GI?"]http://youtu.be/hIgpo7q_6GI?[/ame]
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:07 PM   #124
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I see people in the US are running R-compound tires such as:
Hoosier A6, Kumho V710, BFG R1, Hankook Z214 in Autocross events.
I understand that these tires have all grooves and are DOT approved?

What is the reason why non-grooved non-DOT approved racing slicks are not being applied? Rules?

The guys here are running racing slicks usually from Avon, Yokohama, Michelin and Dunlop maybe (grooveless). Is anyone in the US running racing slicks from these brands at Autocross events?
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:21 AM   #125
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I see people in the US are running R-compound tires such as:
Hoosier A6, Kumho V710, BFG R1, Hankook Z214 in Autocross events.
I understand that these tires have all grooves and are DOT approved?

What is the reason why non-grooved non-DOT approved racing slicks are not being applied? Rules?

The guys here are running racing slicks usually from Avon, Yokohama, Michelin and Dunlop maybe (grooveless). Is anyone in the US running racing slicks from these brands at Autocross events?
I'm pretty sure none of those are actually street legal. Don't think they're DOT approved for highway use.
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