Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[marusteri]

Originally Posted by jjaisli

1. Do those of you who do track events with ambient temperatures > 90* frequently pull a cel 0351?

about 50 track days, I never stop due to heat (just drink water and sweat it out), never got a 0351. 2 weeks ago I did Butonwillow 13CW both Sat and Sun, 107 deg on Sat and 104 on Sun. I didn't skip a single lap.
But the drivetrain is 100% stock, transmission is auto (which probably saves the engine due to the higher gear ratios - it also slows me down )
Speed not that much, last session of the day with only about 5 cars left on the track the best lap I could do was 2:15.75. But I was with OEM suspension (Tein SRC CSG spec to be installed) and OEM tires with about 75 heat cycles on them.
Florin

[ZionsWrath]

haha I just put back my OEM wheels with OEM tires, so they are like 4 years old, maybe ~dozen track days on them. They have been standing in as my coffee table for the past 2 years.

My goodness they are like ice skates. I think I will just run them for the rest of this season and get some Continental DW next season so I can double them as my "rain tire". But I do enjoy the better road manners vs the staggered 18s I just took off.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by Superstar

Anyone have experience with running an aftermarket front grill (such as grillcraft) with an oil cooler? Could you share some temp data (with and w/out grill) if possible?

Just learned this today at the track. Swapped to grillcraft to protect intercooler rad etc in the front from rocks. Pitted when oil got up to 265F with Grillcraft + JR OC + Hood louvers...took grillcraft off and left the hole...next session oil came up to 244F after running high rpm for a while to see how high it would go, couldn't get it higher. 80F ambient both sessions. Not worth risking engine on track with this product, doesn't allow enough air to enter engine bay at speed.

[marusteri]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I don't know the official values, but "hand tight". It's not a load-beading member. Err on the side of caution, and mark where your bolts are locked, so if they slide, you can quickly adjust it back to where it was, and torque slightly higher. Or, lock them im place (use the outermost holes) with a "ballpark" camber, and fine tune using an eccentric bolt on the bottom.

Thanks Mike,
Locking the front camber in place at the top plate wouldn't work very well because my plan is to keep increasing the front camber in the morning before getting on the track and reverting to street values when I leave the track. I am hoping this plan would work because I don't see better options for a dd which also gets plenty of track. This is why I wanted to know as much as I can about the right torque for those bolts, 'cos they will be used a lot. Of course I will lift the front when adjusting camber to reduce the stress as much as I can.
Florin

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by marusteri

Thanks Mike,
Locking the front camber in place at the top plate wouldn't work very well because my plan is to keep increasing the front camber in the morning before getting on the track and reverting to street values when I leave the track. I am hoping this plan would work because I don't see better options for a dd which also gets plenty of track. This is why I wanted to know as much as I can about the right torque for those bolts, 'cos they will be used a lot. Of course I will lift the front when adjusting camber to reduce the stress as much as I can.
Florin

Keep in mind, that changing camber via the plates also minorly affects toe...

[Pat]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Keep in mind, that changing camber via the plates also minorly affects toe...

Good point. Toe is affected about 10% as much as camber changes.

[marusteri]

Originally Posted by marusteri

about 50 track days, I never stop due to heat (just drink water and sweat it out), never got a 0351. 2 weeks ago I did Butonwillow 13CW both Sat and Sun, 107 deg on Sat and 104 on Sun. I didn't skip a single lap.
But the drivetrain is 100% stock, transmission is auto (which probably saves the engine due to the higher gear ratios - it also slows me down )
Speed not that much, last session of the day with only about 5 cars left on the track the best lap I could do was 2:15.75. But I was with OEM suspension (Tein SRC CSG spec to be installed) and OEM tires with about 75 heat cycles on them.
Florin

Forgot to mention I did get a CEL: about 1yr ago at Buttonwillow (not very hot weather) in the pits just after fueling I got P000C: Camshaft Position "A" - Timing Slow Response Bank 2
The manual describes it as:
"Integrated deviations in target intake valve timing and actual intake valve timing per specified time exceed thresholds for 15 seconds (bank 2). (2 trip detection logic)"
and specifies the fail-safe operation for it as:
"Fix intake VVT control at intermediate position"
I didn't risk staying on the track with it, I drove home tail between legs. The dealer fixed it under warranty and wrote:
"found code P000C in memory, off at this time, AVCS slow pressure. Per service bulletin 02-132-12R, followed procedures, found AVS sensor questionable readings, replaced, cleared code, test drove and rechecked, no light present at this time"
Florin

[DocWalt]

After that discussion about ignition coil failures... Guess who got to swap a coil at the track? I didn't even miss a session, though I got some burns and scrapes doing the swap on a hot car.

Time to buy another spare.

[redlined600]

When replacing my seats if the airbag light is on does this trigger the trac/abs light too(meaning defeating them). I can put the resistors in I'm just not sure if I need to focus on this before the next track day. I won't be driving it on the street like this.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by redlined600

When replacing my seats if the airbag light is on does this trigger the trac/abs light too(meaning defeating them). I can put the resistors in I'm just not sure if I need to focus on this before the next track day. I won't be driving it on the street like this.

No, but it does disable the airbags.

[ShadowTS]

When changing brake pads (from the stock ones) to new ones (Ferodo DS2500, plus oil and brake lines), how many km should I drive before tracking? Could I go directly to the track?

[EAGLE5]

Originally Posted by ShadowTS

When changing brake pads (from the stock ones) to new ones (Ferodo DS2500, plus oil and brake lines), how many km should I drive before tracking? Could I go directly to the track?

Go directly to the track. Just bed the pads.

http://www.ferodoracing.com/products...g/pad-bedding/

You can also bed the pads on the street.

[Panamaniac]

Quick question!

What Transmission Oil do you guys recommend for a track only car?

We are on Mobil 1 75w90, but had problems with getting 4th in. We were thinking Motul Gear 300, but want a better opinion on people who have tracked the car more than us.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Panamaniac

Quick question!

What Transmission Oil do you guys recommend for a track only car?

We are on Mobil 1 75w90, but had problems with getting 4th in. We were thinking Motul Gear 300, but want a better opinion on people who have tracked the car more than us.

Try the Motul Gear 300. But, if there is damage that is already done, then the Motul can't magically undo the damage.