2014 86CUP Challenge to NorCal with NCRC

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

yeah, I was basically trying to say that even if I was hitting damn hot temps that I neither have seen nor would I expect to have seen much change in that fluid.

Even after alot of time on track the RT700 holds up really well in my car; much much better than the RBF I was using before it. After a bunch of track days (I think it must have been around 10, maybe 12, not really sure) I noticed that it wasn't feeling quite a firm/precise with the pedal pressure compared to new fluid so I flushed the fluid from the caliper and it was kind of golden colored in the caliper.

The only cases I've heard of people having issues with RT700 was on heavy, high horse power cars and that wasn't boiling, more of a rapid degradation.

Just FYI, if the RT700 fails, there are many more problems associated to the setup than the brake fluid itself...

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Being a front runner in Spec Miata isn't cheap though. A family friend has been doing Spec Miata for almost 2 decades now. His yearly budget is quite high and he's consistently a front runner every year (he is the defending champion right now).

Loosely speaking, a 15k Spec Miata will get you running, a 25k Spec Miata will put you middle pack, and 40-45k Spec Miata will put you in the top 5. Again loosely, because driver skill is very important as well.

I tested out some Dixcel brake pads 3 years ago due to their very boastful claim of being the best brake pads on the market. Needless to say I faded the pads going down to turn 2 at MRLS essentially every lap. I spent quite a bit of effort to cut down speed in various ways, and overall, it was quite a disastrous event. I burned through about half the pad in 3 sessions and could never quite figure out how to drive on those pads properly. I spent about $700 on the pad set for the sake of science! Before that I had played with various compound setups from Project Mu, Carbotech, Cobalt, Hawk, Ferodo, and Raybestos.

Yeah, I've heard about that with spec Miata, though I think you can start for closer to 10K (the rest sound like what I've heard for prices though). In any case though, it would be alot cheaper than what I will be into my BRZ for!

Yeah, the fun experience I had at turn two was the second day of my first ever event. I hadn't done anything to the car and I didn't know anything about the warning signs between "bad brake fade" and "soil your pants brake fade". The mechanic that fixed the brakes later said the pads crumbled in his hands.

Among the lessons I have learned is to bring spare pads and rotors because nothing ruins your day like brake problems.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Just FYI, if the RT700 fails, there are many more problems associated to the setup than the brake fluid itself...

What do you mean the calipers aren't supposed to be on fire? :-D

[Chris_]

Originally Posted by all_aboard

Do you happen to be the FRS driver car #810, I think you drove in C-group???

Yea, that was me

[Chris_]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Square pads will yield better results.

You can brake later and/or harder, if you're getting that much life out of your pads.

Thanks for the info!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

Yeah, I've heard about that with spec Miata, though I think you can start for closer to 10K (the rest sound like what I've heard for prices though). In any case though, it would be alot cheaper than what I will be into my BRZ for!

Yeah, the fun experience I had at turn two was the second day of my first ever event. I hadn't done anything to the car and I didn't know anything about the warning signs between "bad brake fade" and "soil your pants brake fade". The mechanic that fixed the brakes later said the pads crumbled in his hands.

Among the lessons I have learned is to bring spare pads and rotors because nothing ruins your day like brake problems.

If you just want seat time, you can find them pre-built with a tired motor for about 8-10k, with some spares. It won't be competitive, but you can still finish mid-pack as a faster driver.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you just want seat time, you can find them pre-built with a tired motor for about 8-10k, with some spares. It won't be competitive, but you can still finish mid-pack as a faster driver.

I've seriously considered doing that but I know how I am; later this year I would be saying "Geez, the BRZ was so good on track, I should just make it a race car too" and then I would have two dedicated race cars and only room in the trailer for one of them. I expect that every race weekend would be like having to choose between your children to decide which car to take!

Also our lemons car is a Miata so I get some Miata'ing anyway.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

I've seriously considered doing that but I know how I am; later this year I would be saying "Geez, the BRZ was so good on track, I should just make it a race car too" and then I would have two dedicated race cars and only room in the trailer for one of them. I expect that every race weekend would be like having to choose between your children to decide which car to take!

Also our lemons car is a Miata so I get some Miata'ing anyway.

It's more fun to develop the car the way you like it, rather than building to a spec series anyways.

[ddeflyer]

So here are some pictures of the used DS1.11 and the new DS1.11. As you can see there is a huge amount of material left but the studs are clearly visible.

https://plus.google.com/photos/10923...CP6Bw9Wqh9fLLQ

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

So here are some pictures of the used DS1.11 and the new DS1.11. As you can see there is a huge amount of material left but the studs are clearly visible.

https://plus.google.com/photos/10923...CP6Bw9Wqh9fLLQ

I have pictures of a completely broken apart DS1.11 that a client used on his car in Asia. While Ferodos work, we have found them to crumble during our usage and it seems some of our clients are seeing the same issues.

The ideal operating range for DS1.11 seems to be pretty narrow in my experience so it's definitely good for endurance racing usage. It stops fine, but requires a different level of braking technique to utilize them efficiently and effectively.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG David

I have pictures of a completely broken apart DS1.11 that a client used on his car in Asia. While Ferodos work, we have found them to crumble during our usage and it seems some of our clients are seeing the same issues.

The ideal operating range for DS1.11 seems to be pretty narrow in my experience so it's definitely good for endurance racing usage. It stops fine, but requires a different level of braking technique to utilize them efficiently and effectively.

Yeah, I am planning on trying some other compounds in a few months. At the same time though, is it just me or are the rivets on these pads really really tall? That is a huge amount of material still left but I am very well into the rivets.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

Yeah, I am planning on trying some other compounds in a few months. At the same time though, is it just me or are the rivets on these pads really really tall? That is a huge amount of material still left but I am very well into the rivets.

No idea in that regard. The Ferodo pads seem to wear just fine on other compounds. Perhaps you should look into another type of pad manufacturer to work with.