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#99 |
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Senior Member
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@Clipdat I would love to try those (Eneos and Amsoil), but the cost would be probably twice as much per oil change as Castrol. It's probably better to have short OCI's with the cheaper oil than to have longer ones with more shear-stable oil, my strategy at least.
Last edited by radroach; 07-17-2017 at 05:23 PM. |
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#100 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
I suggest you NOT overthink this whole oil change thing. For average driving, just follow the maintenance guide. When changing the oil, as mentioned, use a new crush washer each time. Just tighten the drain plug till the crush washer crushes ..... then go a little bit more ..... like "drain plug tight" ...... you will get a feel for it. For the lug nuts, you may wish to use a torque wrench till you get a feel for "lug nut tight" ...... with a cross lug nut wrench, with dry lug nuts, that's "two squeaks and a grunt". If you have locking lugs, always take them off first and they should be the last to be tightened down. Always cross tighten lug nuts ..... a little at a time till they are all tight. Go get em ...... humfrz |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | sato (07-18-2017) |
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#101 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Weren't you new to cars at one time ..... ?? Or did you use a 9/16" wrench as a teething ring ??...... ![]() ![]() humfrz |
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#102 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
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Quote:
@NRXRaptor The 6k/6 mo interval exists ONLY because Subaru of America wanted a consistent maintenance schedule across their entire lineup, the 86 to this day still holds the 7.5k/7.5 mo interval. imo people have a stick up their ass about oil changes on this car, it's not as fragile as it sounds and synthetic oil only breaks down if it's allowed to sit with fuel in the oil. |
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#103 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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#104 | |
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Quote:
All this holier than thou 3k mile intervals and 'I don't want no dirty looking oil in my car' is backwards thinking in this day and age. Don't get me wrong, I'm not preaching a 10k+ mile indefinite time period oil change interval, but the stock suggestion is fine and synthetic oils don't degrade over time like the old stuff used to. |
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#105 |
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Member
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Whatever synthetic oil is on sale (within reason) is the best. Haha! I've used all brands of oil. I prefer Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec as my secondary choice. However, if engine oil is on sale I've used Valvoline, Royal Purple, Pennzoil, and I'm about to use STP for the first time. I've never had a bad experience with any of the major oil brands.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Helios For This Useful Post: | Icecreamtruk (07-21-2017), Summerwolf (07-21-2017) |
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#106 |
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Senior Member
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Don't let the oil debate drive you crazy. You can seriously geek out and find yourself obsessing over oils. Don't man, its not worth it lol
Any well known synthetic oil will be fine. Yes, some oils perform better than others in various applications but I've yet to see any UOA's that points to one being better than everything else in every other way. In other words, your motor is no more likely to blow with one good oil or another as long as you maintain your car properly. I have a boosted FR-S making ~400whp, I run e85 and I beat the piss out of it drifting I run Mobil 1 0w40, I'll change my oil every 3-4 events or every ~5kms or so
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Shady195 For This Useful Post: | Chad86 (03-18-2018) |
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#107 |
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Senior Member
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#108 |
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#109 |
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The Gunshine State
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Mobil1 seems to work fine, based on my last UOA.
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#110 |
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Senior Member
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Good to know!! I'm currently running Mobil 1 0W/20 as well, no issues. But this time around I'm going to switch to the Subaru oil because ...
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#111 |
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Senior Member
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#112 |
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Maybe so~~
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