CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Also, RCE Yellows sell quite well so maybe there is a lot of people with the same mindset. They're just not as vocal as those that want the car real low. And the Bilsteins only just came out.

Also, real rally coilover are expensive.

- Andy

Yup.

[cdrazic93]

im stuck between the ST coilovers and the KW V1's. I cant really justify the extra $200 for the RCE T'0's although i know they are an amazing coilover.

Basically what im trying to get at is:
The ST are corrosion resistant where as the V1 are corrosion proof.

Given that I live in seattle, and its rainy 7/12 of the months here, snows on the occasion, is the corroision proof worth the extra bucks? Or go the ST route and save myself some money?

[Figo]

Originally Posted by wparsons

The differences between V3 and TII are exactly what the listings describe. Higher spring rates and RCE spec'd valving.

For more track focus the TII's are better, for a daily driver that might see the occasional lapping day the V3's will be more comfortable on the street.

Both are great options, it really just depends on what your spring rate needs are and what fits you better.

RCE spec'd valving is sooooo helpful!

I got KW V3 and it is hard to find some good damper setup example.
Seems like everyone is hiding their damper value.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

im stuck between the ST coilovers and the KW V1's. I cant really justify the extra $200 for the RCE T'0's although i know they are an amazing coilover.

Basically what im trying to get at is:
The ST are corrosion resistant where as the V1 are corrosion proof.

Given that I live in seattle, and its rainy 7/12 of the months here, snows on the occasion, is the corroision proof worth the extra bucks? Or go the ST route and save myself some money?

Tough call for sure. I know with the all the salt caked on my car right now which one I'd choose. Maryland overdoes the salt like crazy.

- Andy

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Tough call for sure. I know with the all the salt caked on my car right now which one I'd choose. Maryland overdoes the salt like crazy.

- Andy

I asked my dad the same compairison, even though he isn't exactly a car guy, he said how the PNW doesn't get nearly enough salt on the roads to warrent the need for KW's...I hope he's right

[FastWhite]

Quick question on the Bilstein B8's.
Could I still use the OEM springs with the B8's and still be in CS class for autocross. Then next year buy the tarmac's and go STX


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[Malt]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

im stuck between the ST coilovers and the KW V1's. I cant really justify the extra $200 for the RCE T'0's although i know they are an amazing coilover.

Basically what im trying to get at is:
The ST are corrosion resistant where as the V1 are corrosion proof.

Given that I live in seattle, and its rainy 7/12 of the months here, snows on the occasion, is the corroision proof worth the extra bucks? Or go the ST route and save myself some money?

Ask yourself these question:
How long do you plan on keeping the car?
Is the savings of $200 worth the hassle of removing the coilovers if they do suffer from a corrosion failure?
If you plan on keeping the car for more than 5 years are you ok with purchasing new coils if you do have a failure? (ST's only have a 5 year warranty, KW has a lifetime warranty)

If it were me, $200 isn't enough of a savings to not get the superior product/warranty, but your values/goals may be different than me.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

Quick question on the Bilstein B8's.
Could I still use the OEM springs with the B8's and still be in CS class for autocross. Then next year buy the tarmac's and go STX


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dampers of almos any kind are an allowable mod in stock class (the ones not allowed are the types you wouldn't be thinking of right now anyway).

B8's are most certainly fine.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Someone needs to make sure they are identical to stock though...on the MINI for example the perches on a Bilstein B8 are 7mm lower front and 5mm rear. That would make it illegal for stock class if I'm not mistaken.

I don't know if the B8's are identical to stock or not.

- Andy

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Someone needs to make sure they are identical to stock though...on the MINI for example the perches on a Bilstein B8 are 7mm lower front and 5mm rear. That would make it illegal for stock class if I'm not mistaken.

I don't know if the B8's are identical to stock or not.

- Andy

ohh boy, another thing to worry about

[simpleisbest]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

Quick question on the Bilstein B8's.
Could I still use the OEM springs with the B8's and still be in CS class for autocross. Then next year buy the tarmac's and go STX


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

B8's are shorter to match with lowering springs. You can purchase the B8's and may need to use a custom shim to raise the spring perch-to-spring contact surface to match the stock measurement. As long as the spring seat-to-hub distance is the same AND the total extended length of the shock is within 1" of OEM, you are good. (I advise to read the rulebook).

Bilstein B6 HD shocks are for OEM length springs. If you were to look to race in CS, you might just want to look to go with the B6's to start off with...

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Malt

Ask yourself these question:
How long do you plan on keeping the car?
Is the savings of $200 worth the hassle of removing the coilovers if they do suffer from a corrosion failure?
If you plan on keeping the car for more than 5 years are you ok with purchasing new coils if you do have a failure? (ST's only have a 5 year warranty, KW has a lifetime warranty)

If it were me, $200 isn't enough of a savings to not get the superior product/warranty, but your values/goals may be different than me.

I plan on keeping the car for as long as I can, 10+ years.

No the difference between the KW and the RCE T0 is about $200. They are both stainless.

The difference between the ST (corrosion resistant) and the cheaper of the two Stainless Steel options is still $600+ more than the ST coilovers, which are already corrosion resistant.

So basically its a savings of $600+ for the difference of SS vs. Galvanized steel.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

I plan on keeping the car for as long as I can, 10+ years.

No the difference between the KW and the RCE T0 is about $200. They are both stainless.

The difference between the ST (corrosion resistant) and the cheaper of the two Stainless Steel options is still $600+ more than the ST coilovers, which are already corrosion resistant.

So basically its a savings of $600+ for the difference of SS vs. Galvanized steel.

Ok, replace $200 with $600 and ask yourself the same questions. An alignment will set you back at least $100 so if you ever have to take them off for repair you'll have to factor that in as well.

Honestly it's a no brainer to me (T0's) but is your money. Plus the T0's have RCE's custom valving.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Malt

Ok, replace $200 with $600 and ask yourself the same questions. An alignment will set you back at least $100 so if you ever have to take them off for repair you'll have to factor that in as well.

Honestly it's a no brainer to me (T0's) but is your money. Plus the T0's have RCE's custom valving.

Basically it's $1,699 for the T0's $1,499 for the V1's and $850 for the ST's.