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Old 02-26-2013, 11:44 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by ft_sjo View Post
Gotta love dealership fitters pretending that they're engineers.
He never said what he did for Toyota (at least not in this thread) right? His location is Diamond Bar, and that's within an acceptable driving distance to Torrance where Toyota's Motor Sales HQ is located, and they would use engineers (at least Honda's sales arm "American Honda Motors" does... which ironically is also located in Torrance).
While I have no issue with running 5w-30 thru the car (especially if it's being tracked), there is also the possibility he may not be as un-informed as everyone wants to believe.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:54 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by Chimpo View Post
He never said what he did for Toyota (at least not in this thread) right? His location is Diamond Bar, and that's within an acceptable driving distance to Torrance where Toyota's Motor Sales HQ is located, and they would use engineers (at least Honda's sales arm "American Honda Motors" does... which ironically is also located in Torrance).
While I have no issue with running 5w-30 thru the car (especially if it's being tracked), there is also the possibility he may not be as un-informed as everyone wants to believe.
Then he can provide data and evidence that 0W-20 is better than what the engineers had suggested in the owner's manual and what the data gathered in the real world shows. 0W-20 is THIN, it's *great* for fuel economy. Based on pressures I've read I'm not convinced it's much good at protecting the engine under sustained high temp/load usage. I wouldn't say go crazy with oil weights here as clearances aren't going to be spec'd for super thick oil either until these engines get some wear into them and loosen up.

Of course Honda (well Honda Racing/HPD) engineers suggest we use heavier oil than the manual shows in my race car. Because of our bearing clearances and usage, we run 15W-50..

Regardless none of this banter is helping the OP. If there's real damage then cause can be examined.

Casso: Which tires are you running again? Big 255s?
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:29 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
Then he can provide data and evidence that 0W-20 is better than what the engineers had suggested in the owner's manual and what the data gathered in the real world shows. 0W-20 is THIN, it's *great* for fuel economy. Based on pressures I've read I'm not convinced it's much good at protecting the engine under sustained high temp/load usage. I wouldn't say go crazy with oil weights here as clearances aren't going to be spec'd for super thick oil either until these engines get some wear into them and loosen up.

Of course Honda (well Honda Racing/HPD) engineers suggest we use heavier oil than the manual shows in my race car. Because of our bearing clearances and usage, we run 15W-50..

Regardless none of this banter is helping the OP. If there's real damage then cause can be examined.

Casso: Which tires are you running again? Big 255s?
I was actually running 225/45/17 BfGoodrich R1'S, great tire but takes a long ass time to get up to temp, i wont go that wide until i go FI. Im sticking with 225-235 for now since im not sure a fatter tire will make this car faster.


Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo View Post
Why not 0w-30 instead for better cold start protection?

Meh, i live in Texas and my car sits in my garage that is insulated with temperature and humidity control all year round. Plus 300v only comes in 5w-30 .


Well guys im making a trip to the dealer. I hope all goes well, ill keep you guys posted.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:01 PM   #74
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You lost power on 2 occasions on the same straight? Id look into oil starvation as it was suggested...
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:53 PM   #75
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G'luck man, bummed to hear about your engine issues!
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:11 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by pcasso87 View Post
I was actually running 225/45/17 BfGoodrich R1'S, great tire but takes a long ass time to get up to temp, i wont go that wide until i go FI. Im sticking with 225-235 for now since im not sure a fatter tire will make this car faster.
I agree. I'm planning on moving from 235s to 225s myself.

Do you have a data logger?
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:27 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
Subaru and Toyota SUGGEST 5w-30 though for severe usage
Subaru link please? I never saw anything about 5w-30 from Subaru in the owners' manual or in bits of FSM that I have. Scion has it in the FSM I think.

I mean I know that the engines are the same, but warranty implications are different.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:38 PM   #78
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Subaru link please? I never saw anything about 5w-30 from Subaru in the owners' manual or in bits of FSM that I have. Scion has it in the FSM I think.

I mean I know that the engines are the same, but warranty implications are different.
They don't specifically call out 5W-30, but this is in the manual on page 413 (or maybe +/- a page or so depending on the various revisions):
"The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

Bolded the part about using a thicker oil for severe usage.

They also talk about 0W-20 being good for fuel economy

"SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for
good fuel economy and good
starting in cold weather."
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:38 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Sportsguy83 View Post
It would be much welcomed if you could elaborate on what have you learned on training that leads you to conclude the oil recommendation by the Toyota/Subaru engineers who designed the car is wrong.
First off I take it you didn't read my original post but ill help you. "If anything one of the VVTI came gears are damaged. Maybe you are using thicker oil then recommended and debre is in your oil blocking the passages" never did I say the oil caused the issue. The oil can have debree in it which I was implying thicker oil can cause slower flow threw the screen mesh filter for the VVTI. But in reality I would assume its a faulty gear. All we can do is assume things because we do not have the car hooked up to a scan tool to truly diagnose the vehicle.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:46 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
As you said do whatever you want. Subaru and Toyota SUGGEST 5w-30 though for severe usage which likely means their experience (instead of book based training by a corporate trainer) matched my own data that we see low oil pressure with 0w-20, especially when warm and at high RPM. 0w-20 is great for Eco though. Based on my data alone my car will never see 0w-20 again.
Which is fine I'm not knocking anyone choice of oil and I never told anyone which oil to use I just stated my choice. Also training doesn't tell use what oil to use that's up to the customer to decide. When I was referring to training I was backing up my statement of the crank pulley not effecting the check engine light and that it was most likely the VVTI gear. I was also stating that because I know some people were wondering where the crank position sensor was and I said it was on the back on the flywheel side.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:27 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
First off I take it you didn't read my original post but ill help you. "If anything one of the VVTI came gears are damaged. Maybe you are using thicker oil then recommended and debre is in your oil blocking the passages" never did I say the oil caused the issue. The oil can have debree in it which I was implying thicker oil can cause slower flow threw the screen mesh filter for the VVTI. But in reality I would assume its a faulty gear. All we can do is assume things because we do not have the car hooked up to a scan tool to truly diagnose the vehicle.
Yes, I read your original post, and also read this post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
Have already stated this but no feed back as of yet. FYI I work for Toyota and know that code is related to VVTI. I bet he has super thick oil and a horrible tune and maybe even running the wrong gas.

And again, the service manual recommends thicker oil for track use which is what the OP is doing and its not "super thick"... Then, specifically on the post I quoted you on you said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
No I just get trained on it from corporate. And as I stated people can say what they want and do what they won't to their cars but I still think 5w30 is too heavy for this car I wouldnt go higher then 5w20 but that's me. Personally I will stay with 0w20 and run a better quality oil like eneos sustina.
So going back to my post where I quoted you, I asked (genuinely) if you knew something different than what we knew because of your "we get trained on this stuff and 5w30 is too thick".



If there are enough debris in the oil to clog up the screen mesh, it doesn't matter if the oil is 0w-20 or 10w-40 the debris will be an issue.

Last edited by Sportsguy83; 02-26-2013 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:04 PM   #82
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To the guy that works for Toyota: yeah so do I and several other people on this forum. Probably should know what you're posting before you try and make yourself look smarter than you really are.

I agree it's probably an oiling issue. Maybe a blocked OCV filter, maybe a piece of aluminum flash that broke off between the oil screen and the vvt passage. That would be a 90% accurate diagnosis on any Toyota engine. This is a Subaru engine.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:07 PM   #83
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Its one of your plugs. Bank 1 is plug burned out. All you have to is change it. Its a misfiring plug. Theres four banks. And only one misfiring . Take it to mechanic to show you which one is bank 1 and change it yourself. Thats what happened to my mr-s long time ago. Good luck cganging it

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Old 02-27-2013, 12:54 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Sportsguy83 View Post
Yes, I read your original post, and also read this post:




And again, the service manual recommends thicker oil for track use which is what the OP is doing and its not "super thick"... Then, specifically on the post I quoted you on you said:



So going back to my post where I quoted you, I asked (genuinely) if you knew something different than what we knew because of your "we get trained on this stuff and 5w30 is too thick".



If there are enough debris in the oil to clog up the screen mesh, it doesn't matter if the oil is 0w-20 or 10w-40 the debris will be an issue.
As for your second quote where I said I bet he was running super thick oil I was assuming he may be running 10w40 (because I have had people come into my dealership requesting to use their own oil which was 10w40). And for your next quote I never said they trained us telling us that 5w30 was too thick. You must have missed my other post or didn't want to quote that Idk. Like I said I stated I was trained on the matter of diagnosing the vehicle and know that the crank pulley doesn't cause a misfire code and that the crank sensor is on the flywheel side. If your saying oil wouldn't make a difference I'm clogging up the VVTI filter/screen you right but if you have something in the screen to restrict the flow, heavy oil like 10w40 won't help, to where a thinner base oil may flow a slight bit more.
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