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Old 07-26-2018, 02:14 PM   #71
Vital
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Originally Posted by Trueweltall View Post
They have arrived.

No idea if I put the right spring on the right strut, just threw it together for these pictures. After looking at the instructions(actually just all precautions and Japanese law about vehicle height) in Japanese, the only thing that stands out is that the warranty is only valid in Japan.

Spring part number for the front struts are "V0491-3806" and the rear is "V0492-3806" so in my picture they are not correctly placed on the right struts. For anyone who also buys these kits the V0491 is always the front spring and V0492 is the rear.

http://showa-tuning.com/_src/sc650/86_parts_list.pdf
Any updates on these? Were you able to get them installed?
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:55 PM   #72
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I am in the process of installing them right now, just got my car up on jack stands. I will be done and aligned by Saturday afternoon if all goes well. Aiming for -1.5 front, -1.0 rear with zero toe. Only have camber bolts for the bottom hole on the front struts, don't want to mix and match a 14mm bolt into the top 16mm hole for more camber so I will be happy with -1.5 in the front.


Last edited by Trueweltall; 07-26-2018 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:18 PM   #73
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I am in the process of installing them right now, just got my car up on jack stands. I will be done and aligned by Saturday afternoon if all goes well. Aiming for -1.5 front, -1.0 rear with zero toe. Only have camber bolts for the bottom hole on the front struts, don't want to mix and match a 14mm bolt into the top 16mm hole for more camber so I will be happy with -1.5 in the front.
Cool, can't wait to see the finished product! Although, I don't think you will be able to get -1.0 rear camber without lower control arms. Anytime you lower the car it will naturally gain camber the front might not change much. I suspect you will be at -1.7 or -1.8 or so for rear camber since it is a mild drop which is perfectly fine for DD as long as the toe is zero'd out
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:44 PM   #74
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Ran into a problem, I don't have a pass through torque wrench so I can't tighten down the top nut correctly.


I have SPC lower control arms getting install too.

No crows foot either.

Edit: Kind of ghetto torqued the top nut. Put the LCA on, jacked it up some to put load on it. Then I got a long pipe and just kept tightening the top nut while holding the allen wrench still, every so often I checked with my torque wrench to see if it would turn and repeated that until I got a click.



Never forget those torque values now! Seriously, not sure why I didn't do this sooner.

Last edited by Trueweltall; 07-27-2018 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:46 PM   #75
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Decided to compress a front strut before I even put anything on it, a big ring of oil was left on the strut rod, honestly I don't know if it's because its brand new or because it's blown. Haven't touched the strut rod on it. The rod goes back out like normal. IDK.

Edit: I have lost a top hat to chassis nut(M8x1.25 flange nut), engine ate it. Took off the engine plates and did not find it. I have looked all around the engine bay. So frustrated, I am done for today.

Last edited by Trueweltall; 07-28-2018 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:12 PM   #76
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Decided to compress a front strut before I even put anything on it, a big ring of oil was left on the strut rod, honestly I don't know if it's because its brand new or because it's blown. Haven't touched the strut rod on it. The rod goes back out like normal. IDK.

Edit: I have lost a top hat to chassis nut(M8x1.25 flange nut), engine ate it. Took off the engine plates and did not find it. I have looked all around the engine bay. So frustrated, I am done for today.
The strut is suppose to be lubricated, also why they include the boot cover to reduce dirt getting on the strut when oiled up. In reality the car doesn't compress it all the way down
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:25 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trueweltall View Post
I am in the process of installing them right now, just got my car up on jack stands. I will be done and aligned by Saturday afternoon if all goes well. Aiming for -1.5 front, -1.0 rear with zero toe. Only have camber bolts for the bottom hole on the front struts, don't want to mix and match a 14mm bolt into the top 16mm hole for more camber so I will be happy with -1.5 in the front.

The OEM crash bolts for the upper hole are the bottom bolts, so there's no safety concerns about running them.
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:04 PM   #78
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Finished the install, lowered the car, drove it 3 houses down and realized I forgot to torque down the front lug nuts. Walked back to my house in the rain, grabbed the torque wrench and got them torqued down. My alignment is so off I can't even give you an impression yet, the car rides so wonkey right now it's like riding over different sized speed bumps on each corner. I am sure that's because I switched out the rear LCA's for adjustable SPC's on top of lowering it 0.59 inches. I will get it aligned within the next 7 days and give an update then.

I measured each corner and I am at around 0.5 inches lower than stock.
F: 26 and 1/4" to 25 3/4"
R: 26 and 1/2" to 26
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:49 PM   #79
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Got any pics of your car with them installed?
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Old 07-30-2018, 01:14 AM   #80
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Think my rear toe and camber is off? (LOL) It's just as bad on the other side. Something like -4 with the worst toe in.


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Old 07-30-2018, 04:36 AM   #81
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Well, now it looks so bad that even is noticeable. But in general, due wished/common toe angles being so small, way narrower vs camber's, one needs tools/rig to properly check toe part of alignment. I wouldn't drive with toe off as much as in pic.
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Old 07-30-2018, 04:46 PM   #82
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Why some people don't pay a professional to do the job? Is it too expensive or something else? It seems a bit dump, especially when you've paid more to import a suspension from Japan.
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:37 PM   #83
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How would I learn to do it myself if I paid someone else? The whole point of modifying my vehicle was to do it myself and learn from it. I didn't "pay more" to import suspension from Japan either but keep making assumptions.
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Old 07-30-2018, 06:04 PM   #84
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Assuming you didn't touch the toe arm, dial out some of the camber with your adjustable rear LCA to make the car driveable. Borrow a camber gauge if you can. Getting the camber to a reasonable amount (-2-ish) should bring the toe back to a reasonable amount. Then take it to an alignment shop. The toe looks pretty bad from your pics and I wouldn't drive it far the way it is now.

For the new at home DIY-ers you should at least having a skilled friend with you for an install like this.

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