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Old 04-29-2016, 02:35 AM   #7113
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Is there any way you can bypass the pump for now? If you could flood the system before getting the pump on, then flood the pump, it'll have something to push and that'll help get the rest of the air out
I just replaced the pump yesterday. It was pushing fluid too. I had to refill the bottle 3 times... And now the lines are just empty.. No coolant anywhere lol. I plan on not driving the car tomorrow to work and Saturday I'm heading 3 minutes down the roads to a buddies to try and get it looked at.
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:44 AM   #7114
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Good luck man. Sounds like a leaky line
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:49 AM   #7115
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Good luck man. Sounds like a leaky line
But there's no coolant anywhere... :|.. it's like it's evaporating..
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:50 AM   #7116
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Maybe it is? Cracked intercooler?
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:56 AM   #7117
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Maybe it is? Cracked intercooler?
I'll find out Saturday.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:06 AM   #7118
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what valve? On the throttle body..? you mean which controls the amount of air you let in relative to your pedal..?
Is it the pedal or the RPMs? Even though they are somewhat linked I guess.

So having it open "more" and "sooner" would have no impact to the torque at lower RPMs? I figured it was just designed the way it was to stop fuel wastage when idling. I pretty much cannot feel much if any difference the supercharger makes under 3000 RPM over stock and figured it may have an impact there if it was more open.

Sorry I am not so educated on this topic.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:15 AM   #7119
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If you had it more open, you would lose vacuum and brake booster, as well as throw the entire air fuel ratio off. If you mash the throttle, it will open all the way.
If it's open on idle, your motor will have unlimited access to air, giving you too much oxygen and therefore not a good combustion ratio. The ecu would compensate by putting even more fuel into the mixture to keep the motor running, and eventually you'd have a runaway motor. Throttlebodies are very important.
There's never any need to apologise bud, I'm sure most of us are just glad you asked here before doing something.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:19 AM   #7120
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That having been said, don't mash the throttle under 3k with stock internals. Usually at low rpm under high load, the forces on the pistons are so high that they have the chance of bending the rods or even forcing the rods through the heads.
Always play it safe. If you're gonna go hard at low rpm, do it on first gear so the system has as little resistance as possible. If you do it right, each up shift should have you at around 3.5k rpm starting - good to go as far as Wide Open Throttle is concerned.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:25 AM   #7121
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That having been said, don't mash the throttle under 3k with stock internals. Usually at low rpm under high load, the forces on the pistons are so high that they have the chance of bending the rods or even forcing the rods through the heads.
Always play it safe. If you're gonna go hard at low rpm, do it on first gear so the system has as little resistance as possible. If you do it right, each up shift should have you at around 3.5k rpm starting - good to go as far as Wide Open Throttle is concerned.
Also don't bang first gear like me unless you wanna replace axles every 1k.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:31 AM   #7122
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Also don't bang first gear like me unless you wanna replace axles every 1k.
Admittedly it's very tempting. But that's what 2nd is for.
That's where you'll find me. Just cruising around at 5k in second waiting for someone to race me hahaha
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:22 PM   #7123
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Originally Posted by riboyster View Post
If you had it more open, you would lose vacuum and brake booster, as well as throw the entire air fuel ratio off. If you mash the throttle, it will open all the way.
If it's open on idle, your motor will have unlimited access to air, giving you too much oxygen and therefore not a good combustion ratio. The ecu would compensate by putting even more fuel into the mixture to keep the motor running, and eventually you'd have a runaway motor. Throttlebodies are very important.
There's never any need to apologise bud, I'm sure most of us are just glad you asked here before doing something.
This is exactly how dissel engines work. They have no throttle body and change fuel to add power. The combustion is always fuel limited and runs as lean as possible. They also generate a lot of heat.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:03 PM   #7124
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335 on stock motor

I have the 210 innovate stage 2 kit, but i am looking to upgrade to the 335, Has anyone done this on stock internals reliably?

Also if anyone wants to sell their 335 hmu!
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:42 PM   #7125
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I have the 210 innovate stage 2 kit, but i am looking to upgrade to the 335, Has anyone done this on stock internals reliably?

Also if anyone wants to sell their 335 hmu!
You'll need an oversided pulley. You can push maybe 2 more psi than the 210 on stock internals (safely), and that's about 14psi.. You can always try turning it up until it pops, I guess. Or just build the motor before you do anything, then upgrade. Because even @smudge blew a hole in his block with the 335.. and his car was built. Admittedly, he had a faulty part.. but still. The 335 is a beast!
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Old 04-29-2016, 11:22 PM   #7126
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80mm pulley and e85 will get you a long ways look at moto Mike. of course you will need injectors, pump, and clutch. Don't go hard under 3k rpm
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