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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#43 | |
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AutoX Nut
Join Date: May 2013
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Quote:
As for your brakes, did you have the same issues with the stock pads? I only AutoX (no tracking), so I still have the stock pads and fluid. I've had lots of experienced guys that drive other cars drive my car and they are amazed at the performance of the stock brakes (in a straight line anyway...). It's the first thing everyone says when they get out of my car: "Those brakes are stock?!". |
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#44 |
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The s2000 is an example of a RWD car in which the front works very very welland that's in part due to its front suspension design.
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SCCA T4 - FRS
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| The Following User Says Thank You to rice_classic For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (05-13-2014) |
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#45 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
![]() The FRS/BRZ has abnormally large brakes for it's power/weight (but it's still not enough for track use). |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | jprice130 (05-13-2014) |
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#46 |
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AutoX Nut
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#47 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
(CR owners generally all know each other) |
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#48 | |
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AutoX Nut
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jprice130 For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (05-13-2014) |
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#49 | |
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#50 |
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Ok this is much as I can pull out of the plates with a 10mm drop.
Will try this and see if its anymore eager to rotate.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dezoris For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (05-31-2014) |
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#51 |
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It should rotate way better
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#52 |
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Here is the update with new alignment. I was only able to run morning session and still managed second in class out of 10.
The car is better, but I am still not getting the rotation I want and, for autox I am starting to hate the AP brakes at these events but regardless thanks for tips. With some minor adjustments in driving I should be able to run consistently in top 10 overall and 1-3 in class for sure. Need to get somethings sorted then try some national events. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xf59TBXekjw"]Supercharged FRS | Autox Update - YouTube[/ame]
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#53 |
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Ohlins spring rates are out to lunch, IMO. Same rate springs all around means the front *wheel* rate is about 60% stiffer than rear *wheel* rate. And WHEEL rate is what is important. Stiffer rear springs is what I'd do.
Disconnecting the front bar seems like a bad idea to me. More body roll, less camber relative to the ground. Yeah, you'll get more mechanical grip up front and lose some in back as the outside rear is worked harder, but you'll get the same effect with stiffer rear springs and you'll get *less* body roll, so better outside front camber while cornering. Regarding tire "wear markers" referred to on the first page of the thread, those just show where the treadwear indicators are. They are not for indicating whether or not you have too much or too little camber or tire pressure. Ignore them for car setup. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (06-15-2014) |
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#54 |
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Senior Member
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I'm also on Ohlins with the standard spring rate and here my thoughts.
With the rest of the suspension stock, I installed the Ohins and went out to a track event. I felt the car was pushing way too much (the camber was something like -2.4F/-1.8R) and this was confirmed with a pyrometer. The front tires were working a lot harder than the rears. I'm sure my driving style plays a factor here but I much prefer the loose feeling of say the S2000 rather than this understeer. At a temporary fix, I'm now running a rear sway bar from a ~2008 WRX and this helps rotation quite a bit. But my plan is to go back to the OEM rear sway bar and instead swap out the springs to something around 350F/425R (lbs/in). |
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#55 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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@Dezoris: Do you have data with wheel speed sensors and an accelerometer? I may be able to figure out a cause and possible solutions.
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#56 |
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Off Topic
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Would it be worthwhile to run maxed out camber bolts in order to get more adjustability at the top hat?
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