FI turbo issues

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by King Tut

This. I had the same exact issues with my tune when I sold the car, and I am not affraid to say that it was an FA20Club tune. I knew that the BOV was not causing the issue because I had already eliminated it as a possible cause. I informed Toni of the issue multiple times since my first drive home from being "tuned" meaning 10 flashes on the dyno and zero time tuning on the street.

I had the same problem on my own car if it was below 70F out. If i blipped the throttle it would shut off. And it was on the same injectors as the OP, and his logs show a lot of similar properties of my own car back then. I would max out fuel trims and the car would just shut off. It also did it while on the highway at about 65MPH at certain load values. (as in while driving).

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

I had the same problem on my own car if it was below 70F out. If i blipped the throttle it would shut off. And it was on the same injectors as the OP, and his logs show a lot of similar properties of my own car back then. I would max out fuel trims and the car would just shut off. It also did it while on the highway at about 65MPH at certain load values. (as in while driving).

Yep. I actually taught myself to make sure I engine braked to as low an RPM as I could to not allow the RPM very much room to drop when I stuck the clutch in. Sometimes it would still stall out when I stuck the clutch in and hopefully I was going fast enough to just put it in second and pop the clutch to refire the car so I didn't have to embarass myself restarting my car while sitting at a stop light. Stop and go traffic with higher temps was when it was the worst for me.

[jamesm]

This is all textbook stuff guys. I literally fix this for someone at least once a week. I can tell people what their problems are before they even tell me at this point when they call lol.

Just get a new tune.

[evo4g63]

The car will be getting a new tune as soon as I can find someone willing to tune it. Until than it'll just sit parked . I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.

[Sportsguy83]

This is my take on all of this:

I have had my car with open at idle BOV (my kit is routed like JDL's) and didn't pay much attention to it. It had an 8psi spring.

I've had a hard time tuning the idle for the past month. Looked for fuel leaks, vacuum hoses popping off, etc. Nothing was wrong. Yesterday I decided to try closing BOV and it is a different car.

Car is way more responsive, it's building boost sooner and more importantly, the idle improve significantly. Now Just need to fine tune for it and it will be within 2% of fueling error. I used the Tial chart and selected the 11 psi spring which is the correct one for my car that vacuums -20.

On the tune side, I used to have an FA20club tune that had these issues:
Idle dip... bad (never fixed)
14 AFR part throttle all the way to 16 psi (WOT would force open loop and proper AFR) (never fixed)
Too rich AFR when going to open loop, creating a misfire CEL when going WOT sometimes (fixed after multiple times asking for it and fixed only because instead of asking about the CEL and being told it was a bad coilpack, I actually diagnosed the issue myself and simply asked for an open loop AFR leaner than high 9's
Car would not start normally, needed to start cranking then WOT to remove fuel and make it start. (Fixed after spending money on FA20club recommended injectors sworn to have those ones nailed down perfectly, still having the issue for a couple more tune revisions SMDH... but then fixed for good).

And the weirdest of them all, sometimes completely random the car would make no power even at 16 psi. It was like ALL timing was removed from the tune. A little time later or stopping starting the car later would fix it. Other times it would not make power up to 10 psi and then would make normal power from 10-16 psi.... Never ever got this resolved and know other people with FA20club tune that have hd this happen too.

Heck, less than a week ago I reviewed logs from one FA20club turbo car dyno tuned with FA20C turbo and one dyno tuned by FA20C but with P&L turbo and both of them knocked while cruising to -5......


All of this issues are non existent with @jamesm tune.

[xwd]

I've read lots of things in the past on various cars about idle issues and whatnot with BOVs open at idle, even when then BOV is before the MAF. Most people put stiffer springs in them like Sportsguy83 or shim them to keep them closed at idle and it fixes the problem. It usually has little affect on the BOV at boost either, you probably won't see much more compressor surge.