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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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12-26-2020, 01:04 AM | #29 | |||
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This setup was the same output sound-wise as stock, and shaved about 13lbs vs stock. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103338 Is it worth the money? Up to you. For me, it is an idea setup to run WHATEVER exhaust you want and only get the exhaust noise out of the setup, no header penalty. |
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12-26-2020, 06:11 PM | #30 | |
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Is this the kit you are talking about? https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...eza&option=WRX I can only see the Wilwood 6R for the front actually listed for the 86/BRZ, but FTSpeed says that the 2003 WRX Wilwood front 4R kit should fit. These look like a screaming deal if they actually fit and don't change brake bias. |
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12-26-2020, 07:17 PM | #31 | |
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SKU: 140-9193-230-10425 I picked these up for 950$ during a sale. You do need Wilwood Brake Flexline Kits 220-7009 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-220-7009 To make it 100% bolt on. Lots of people running these. |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 86TOYO2k17 For This Useful Post: | Mike_ZN6 (12-27-2020), new2subaru (12-26-2020) |
12-26-2020, 09:37 PM | #32 | |
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https://www.pointmeby.com/2016/09/24...z-frs-gt86-86/ |
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The Following User Says Thank You to new2subaru For This Useful Post: | Mike_ZN6 (12-27-2020) |
12-27-2020, 12:47 AM | #33 |
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Are you kidding me, that was probably one of the best mods I've done! I went with the Versus carbon fiber driveshaft and my speed picked up tremendously...the whole car just felt snappier too by getting rid of that 2 piece design, better throttle response. Compared to the old OEM driveshaft, that thing was a Heavy SLUG! If that was the only thing you changed, you probably wouldn't notice much. But once you get lighter rims, driveshaft, drop some weight, things start to add up fast! I would NEVER go back! As far as sound, I hardly notice anything except for maybe a slight, hum at low speed. The aluminum one is definitely louder.
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12-27-2020, 03:39 AM | #34 | |
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I fitted once the Wilwood 6 pots on Impreza GT MY00 and they were very flexible, brackets and calipers, although much lighter than everything else. |
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12-27-2020, 10:26 AM | #35 | ||
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These look perfect, almost no change in bias. This is a legit BBK for $1000. Do the 2003 WRX rear brakes also bolt on? I see Wilwood makes a similarly priced kit for the 2003 WRX rear brakes: https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...eza&option=WRX The rotors on that rear kit are actually slightly larger than the fronts. Not sure what that rear kit would do to the bias, either. |
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12-27-2020, 10:36 AM | #36 |
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Mike_ZN6: twins stock brakes are that of wrx (rears IIRC legacy GT). If that kit is made to work with stock rears, it should have same bias. But wrx definitely has different weight distribution, so fitting also rears imho will fsck up bias from right one way too much.
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The Following User Says Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post: | Mike_ZN6 (12-27-2020) |
12-27-2020, 10:40 AM | #37 | |
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12-27-2020, 10:58 AM | #38 | |
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So just the front brakes are the same as WRX? And the rears are the same as the Legacy GT? That's too bad, I don't see a rear brake kit for the Legacy GT from Wilwood. I wonder if there is a different Wilwood Dynapro rear kit that would fit and maintain factory bias while also costing about $1000. |
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12-27-2020, 11:30 AM | #39 |
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Why are we even talking about brakes in here?
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12-27-2020, 12:09 PM | #40 | |
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12-27-2020, 12:30 PM | #41 |
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Mike_ZN6: there is less need to have also BBK rears, as most braking (thus also heat generated and wear happening) is done by fronts. No wonder Essex for their APR sprint & endurance kits for twins went with front-only route, to keep high quality, but reasonable budget.
Also i'd be careful with fitting rears from other kits, as most BBKs that have both fronts and rears, more often are made with trying to retain bias only when working in full set, less looking to ensure that both front will work with stock rears, and rears will work with stock fronts. If you absolutely must have BBK rears, consider some full kit. There is one by APR, there is one by Willwood especially for twins. Few others. Problem being, that cost/budget skyrockets unreasonably. Better stick with fronts-only BBK, that works well with stock rears. |
12-27-2020, 12:32 PM | #42 | |
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This has been discussed in nauseam. The actual science and physics can and has been calculated. As well as actual real world testing beyond the butt dyno. The driveshaft is such a small portion of the drivetrain losses, and such a small diameter. Losing 10lbs on it (assuming diameter didn’t increase) is equivalent of losing 1lb in a 1000lbs stone. The difference is so small. And if you get an aluminum shaft the diameter increases and now the weight has been moved further outside and it actually requires more force to rotate. The 3 benefits are static weight loss Swapping from 2 piece to 1 piece, which has a similar effect to adding stiffer trans mounts. And holding more power, which I haven’t really heard anyone snapping a driveshaft yet. The “rotational” weight loss benefit is so small it’s almost non existent. Its the equally to 1hp in 1st, 1/2hp in 2nd, 1/4hp in 3rd and beyond that it’s basically doing nothing. And for aluminum shaft it actually requires more force then oem to rotate because of the larger diameter albeit only like a 1/4hp more to rotate in 1st and negligible beyond that. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to 86TOYO2k17 For This Useful Post: | churchx (12-27-2020) |
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