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| Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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#15 |
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Granny Shifter
Join Date: Apr 2014
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The FI section of the forums has a lot of in depth reviews from users of each kit as well as pros and cons of each. Check it out when you have the time.
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#16 | ||
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Quote:
, I've been looking at a lot of the reviews and there all helpful but I couldn't find one about the Crawford plus 100 bolt on with all stock parts. (I'm most likely just using the forum search wrong :/) One thing i did notice however is a lack of raw data on most of the reviews |
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#17 | |
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Granny Shifter
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Quote:
Yea you may have to PM some users directly for more information. I know there are quite a few members on the forums that track their cars with forced induction setups. That would give you better insight in terms of each kits durability and reliability under extreme operating conditions. |
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#18 | |
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Seriously though if you are not all that familiar about mechanic and FI might I suggest a supercharger (not trying to start a flame war) but I do find them fairly easier to work with and normally SC system will have less possible failing points. Mechanically driven vs pressure driven. Also better have a large bank account balance |
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#19 |
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To answer one of your questions though (about lasting at least 50k) the only FI system that comes to mind is the Jackson Racing Supercharger Kit, it isn't as widely used but I don't believe there has been a single report of failure to one of their kits and I don't think they have had any returns or defective products. Also they do seem to make around 250+whp to 275whp with the kit so it does fall into your +100 hp (I assume you meant bhp)
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#20 |
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My experience with fullblown Motorsports has been good. Just don't cheapen out and take corners.
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2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe |
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#21 |
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[insert cool phrase here]
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Just to put your mind at ease about turbo charging cars, they will last the life of the car. That all depends how much boost, and proper maintainace.
The boxer engine can handle turbos with no problem. Just look at all those high milage WRX/STI cars on the road today. The main reason why some turbo cars die is high boost with no to little internal work. Lack of oil, excessive heat, poor cooling, etc. As long as you don't have a crazy amount of boost, have proper oil/cooling your car will last for over 100k miles
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mr.ac For This Useful Post: | Teeeg28 (09-24-2015) |
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#22 |
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Shibby!
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I'm confused. Are you asking what actual turbo to get for this car, or what performance shop kit of the options listed on this forum you should throw at this car?
Two book suggestions if you are in fact interested in learning about motors and turbochargers that worked for me at least: - Turbochargers, by Hugh Macinnes; HP Books (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...t%2F0895861356) - Maximum Boost by Corky Bell ([ame="http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606"]Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance): Corky Bell: 9780837601601: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]) I've got another toyota 4 cyl. that's been boosted almost 189k miles. While it's possible to create a build with longevity in mind, the general rule is if you modify a stock N/A motor with FI, always be thinking about a spare motor. DGAF how nice you think your build is lol. |
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#23 |
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Some of the better thought out kits, which use high quality components and come from reputable, established vendors are:
* Full Blown * MAPerformance * Treadstone As some general advice, don't skimp on the turbo itself (Borg Warner, Garrett, Precision) and look at heat management as well (upgraded radiator, oil cooler and turbo blankets/heat wrap/ceramic coating). The Full Blown and Treadstone kits also come with a upgraded fuel pump. Get a proper Ecutek tune from the vendors on here that have developed the platform and grown with the platform from the start (Delicious Tuning, Moto East, Driftworks) |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
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Dare I say look at the spd turbo kit. Lowest price and it's supposed to be lowish boost for longevity and fun. I plan to get it.
From my understanding you will want to get an oil cooler, gauges, and some other parts for optimal performance and probably life of the motor. Look them up! Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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#25 |
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I am not going to answer your question with a brand - however - this is what I would do.
First - find a tuner that you like. Do some research. Find one with a dyno and some of our cars under their belt. Then - ask them what they would do and in what order. Then - follow their advice to the T and let them do the work/tune. OR - do it all yourself which is an entirely different game
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#26 |
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Between exhaust, turbo kit, Clutch and ecutek. I'm around $9100. I did 100% of my own work so that's all parts. I still need oil cooler, catch can and tune if I plan on upping the boost.
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2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe |
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#27 |
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Senior Member
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get the biggest one
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#28 |
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Tire Destroyer
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Wait lemme get this straight... You bought an srt8 charger and it's "slow," so you bought an FR-S to be a "tuner" and have a fast car? The SRT is capable car in the first place, and you would be better off getting a procharger for your SRT8. Better reliability, and better power (easily 700-900whp), and cheaper, especially if you think it's slow stock. FR-S and BRZ and such are great cars, but they do not make big power easily, or reliably. They should be enjoyed for their light weight and low center of gravity, so you would be better keeping them stock and working on the SRT in my honest opinion. Plus it will be around $6,000-$8,000 just to get around 300-350whp on an FR-S if you did all the installs, otherwise be ready to pay 12-15k after labor, shipping, and taxes. For that money you can get 800whp in your other car.
Now if you are set on getting into the "tuning scene," which I assume means just modifying japanese cars and such, you may want to read a few books, or at least go over all of the threads in the Forced Induction section. There is even a thread for those getting started at the top of the page. If you want to know the limits, check people's threads in the build section. Our cars hold around 300whp reliably (maybe even 350, only if cooling and the tune is good), and 10psi would be pushing it and risking eventual engine failure. Our transmissions hold around 400-450 wheel torque before they break, and our clutches hold 250ish wheel torque before they crap out. Now find a kit you like, and do some research on what suits you best! Last edited by Readytoxplod; 09-30-2015 at 06:29 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Readytoxplod For This Useful Post: | xuimod (09-29-2015) |
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