Suberman's guide on how to make the car fix his inability to drive correctly.

[drewbot]

I dunno man, this same guy bought 225 width winter tires.... Who does that

Just wait till you hear what he says to say about winter driving

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Shankenstein]

Originally Posted by drewbot

I dunno man, this same guy bought 225 width winter tires.... Who does that

Just wait till you hear what he says to say about winter driving

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

*hangs head in shame* I did that. They were $300 for the set with alloy rims though.

They had a little trouble on icy sections... but I never got stuck. There were 2 days that were pretty sketchy this year, though "truck ruts" helped ALOT.

Luckily, I've got a 2001 Honda Accord as the winter beater this year. Similarly, a very good deal.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by drewbot

I dunno man, this same guy bought 225 width winter tires.... Who does that

Just wait till you hear what he says to say about winter driving

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Lets clarify a bit more...

He bought 225 width performance winter tires, then bitches about how the car is terrible in deep/loose snow. Claims that performance snows are just as good as ice and snow tires, and that going wider for snows doesn't hurt performance in deep/loose snow.

This is the type of "genius" we're dealing with here folks.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by NissanGuy

Which tire should I do first? I feel like the front right...

Front left, most tracks are run clockwise so it will be the most loaded tire throughout the day.

And if you run counterclockwise you can easily swap it to the front right at no charge.

[boredom.is.me]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Front left, most tracks are run clockwise so it will be the most loaded tire throughout the day.

And if you run counterclockwise you can easily swap it to the front right at no charge.

But what if the tires are directional? Then I have to buy another front tire. Then by the original logic, I would then have to buy two rear tires.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by boredom.is.me

But what if the tires are directional? Then I have to buy another front tire. Then by the original logic, I would then have to buy two rear tires.

directional doesn't matter if it's dry. Save your money and don't track in the rain ^_^

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by boredom.is.me

But what if the tires are directional? Then I have to buy another front tire. Then by the original logic, I would then have to buy two rear tires.

Only buy new tires for the wheels with new struts. So, just the left two.

[Ubersuber]

Quite the activity.

I cut the section out of the top of the bump stop precisely to preserve the existing progressive rate. I deduced, correctly as it turns out, that this would reduce the overall bump spring rate without inducing a sudden rate rise when the remainder of the bump stop is first contacted. It works just as I thought it would, extremely well. It would be a better solution to fit custom made shorter progressive bump stops and I'm pretty sure the ones TRD sells with the as yet unavailable in Canada lowering springs should be about perfect.

I know why shortening the rear bump stops works. I also know that Subaru deliberately fit longish and relatively stiff progression rear bump stops. It was a mistake to do so but it wasn't done by mistake.

I also understand why Toyota fit different spring rates to the FRS (and GT86 for that matter) which is a big reason I bought the BRZ. I think Toyota made a mistake there also and I am pretty sure they are fixing that mistake for 2015 on.

I think Subaru intentionally fit inadequate rear dampers and I also think that was a mistake, soon to be corrected for 2015 on.

I initially thought that Subaru spec'd the wrong tires for these cars but I am not so sure now. I'll go so far as to say that it would be a mistake to fit "better" tires right away in the expectation that the car will be improved. The stock tires will actually teach you how to drive properly and, as a next stage, you can use those relatively hard compound, soft sidewall LRR tires to explore a little "power" induced oversteer (actually not "power" induced but suspension induced, 151 lb ft of torque shouldn't be enough to overpower modern suspension).

These are great little cars right off the showroom floor. You could buy one and never do a thing to it and you could be very pleased with your purchase.

My point is only to suggest modest changes that cost very little and correct the deliberate "mistakes" made by the design engineers. If you are a good driver and like to drive quickly on the street these design "features" are just annoying in the long run.

The cars are very good from the factory. To make them great driving cars you just need to change the rear roll stiffness, improve the damping quality and consider fitting more capable tires.

Everything I suggest will work as described. I wouldn't bother increasing any of the spring rates on this car but if you decide to do it, just fit a slightly larger diameter front roll bar.

TRD offers a 21 mm front bar, there are also 19 and 22 mm available. If you want to preserve the existing roll resistance balance after cutting the rear bump stops then also fit a 16 mm rear bar, but I wouldn't bother, the car is excessively tail happy for serious drivers already.

Again, I emphasise do not do these changes if you like that slightly tail happy feel of these cars. The engineers designed that in. It makes the cars slower and less interesting to really drive but it was done on purpose for those wanting that "feature". I'm pretty sure Toyota now sees that the market for this feature is very, very limited. And just BTW, the TRD lowering spring package looks pretty good for anyone wanting to just lower their car.

[Thorpedo]

The best budget "mod" you can ever do for street driving is high performance driver education. I'll be the first to say it outright, OP your list is Fucking retarded.

[gramicci101]

It must be nice to be sublimely convinced that you're right, never mind what companies like RCE and Swift and CSG say work best for the car after exhaustive testing of different setups. Much less the actual engineers working for the manufacturers. Can you imagine how awesome life would be to know that everyone around you is wrong, because you're right?

[boredom.is.me]

Fail at trolling too. Second day and only the second page!

[Model Citizen]

Another suberman novel

[Captain Snooze]

Is Ubersuber related to NYCsubaruBRZ ?

[gramicci101]

I think so. The guy who put eibach sportlines and an injen intake on his car, has never taken it to the track, and preaches wrong information as if it's the gospel?