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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#15 | |
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#16 |
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Why not just use the stock tires on your new rims? They'd fit. Barely, but they would.
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#17 | |
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I want to mount my RPF1s. 17x8 |
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#18 |
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NO, I feel that 245/40/17 MPSS are what the car should have come with. I can still get the rear out. No problem.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to FunCon5 For This Useful Post: | ZionsWrath (03-10-2014) |
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#20 |
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Yeah, I can break traction on 265/35 Michelin PSS.
More grip is fucking awesome. Don't regret it one bit. |
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#21 |
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Eh, they were decent in the slush we got a couple times this winter. Predictable traction break away characteristics in dry and wet. I can't bag them too much because I got them new, mounted, for like $350.
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#22 |
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I don't regret it at all. It made the car less spastic. It will break loose if prodded enough, I'm sure, but I enjoy the fact that it doesnt CASUALLY break loose anymore.
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#23 |
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It's only been 3 days since I've got a new set of wheels and tires.
Love how the car just hooks and shoots with the new set up. I didn't really care about daily driving to be honest. If I didn't start tracking the car, I probably would have cared much more though. |
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#24 |
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FWIW, Ill leave a message here about what I did do.
I bought Eagle F1 Assymetricals in 245-40-17. I love how the car sticks now and find it more fun than ever. Its doing what I love to do best, going around curves fast. I do not regret getting rid of the low grip tires at all. |
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#25 |
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No regrets here. I got tired of attracting attention squealing my tires around normal corners even when I wasn't trying to have fun. And from a start too the stock tires chirped a lot.
Now its no noise just moar speed
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Kostamojen For This Useful Post: | stock (04-11-2014) |
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#26 |
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@stock
Like some have alluded to, grip has more to do with tire compound than tire width. If you want to keep the fun street character of the stock car on a wider than stock tire, I'd choose something with less ultimate grip and better wet performance for the street. I also wouldn't go wider than 235 because many have reported at about 245 you may start to lose steering "feel" (the sidewall aspect ratio, and construction will also play a part here as well as tire inflation pressure). So for what you're looking for, I'd drop down in the range of "ultimate grip" and get some of the "fun" back you're seeking. Performance Categories (per Tirerack) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/tiretype.jsp Extreme Performance Summer (some examples) Direzza Star Specs Hankook RS3 Bridgestone RE-11As Fastest http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=172 Max Performance Summer (some examples) Michelin Pilot Super Sports Bridgestone Potenza S4 Pole Position Sumitomo HTR ZIII (Try this) Fastest http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=174 Best Budget http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=149 Ultra-High Performance Summer (some examples) Yokohama S.Drives (or Try this) Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport (or Try this) BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 (or Try this) Fastest http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=163 High Performance Summer (some examples) Barren Wasteland Grand Touring Summer (some examples) Michelin Primacy HPs (Stock Tires) You may also explore All-Season tires if you're in a place where the temps often drop below 50 degrees. Ambient temperature performance also plays a large role in how much grip is available throughout the performance envelope. Hope this helps a little. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to DAEMANO For This Useful Post: | Autocon (04-11-2014) |
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#27 |
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Women and cars it always comes down to how fast you can afford.
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#28 |
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I went with Michelin PSS's on my daily driver and while I do not regret purchasing them for the extra grip, I do regret not going with something a little cheaper.
I do not go to the track nor do I intend to so I could have gotten away with tires that lasted a big longer. At the rate I drive, I will burn through a set of the PSS's in about a year which while not inherently bad, is still around $900. Just something to think about depending upon intended usage of your car. |
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