A little question

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by JD001

But you can still learn to drive smoothly.. in UK, if you pass your test in an AT then that is all you can drive, however, if you learn to drive a MT and pass your test in a MT you can drive both..

In the US, you can drive either regardless of which your test car has in it. You can also pass the test in most US states in an automatic with almost zero training, so there is that.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

Mine does this, it's really really annoying. The drivetrain lash in the car is crazy. I'm working on getting rid of as much as mine as I can, once my car runs I can let you know if I was successful.
I've upgraded the motor mounts, transmission mount, strut mounts, struts, differential bushings, subframe bushings, and installed a carbon fiber driveshaft.

Previously, I used solid transmission mounts ( without any other driveline bushings being upgraded) and it removed a great deal of the drivetrain lash. I think the secret is moderately tightening everything up.

Next time you have it in the air, leave it in neutral and wiggle the driveshaft through the lash. I've found that the overwhelming majority comes from my outer CV joints. I was shocked. They're perfectly ok so I just keep it in mind as I drive. Maybe someday I'll build a set of stout ones. I know, DSS blah blah...

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Next time you have it in the air, leave it in neutral and wiggle the driveshaft through the lash. I've found that the overwhelming majority comes from my outer CV joints. I was shocked. They're perfectly ok so I just keep it in mind as I drive. Maybe someday I'll build a set of stout ones. I know, DSS blah blah...

I went with the one piece because I was surprised at the amount of play in my driveshaft. Mine was the only point of reference I have though, so I'm excited to see if the 1 piece shaft helps. In my E36, at least I could blame the guibo... not so predictable here

[NoHaveMSG]

It’s in the CV’s as Ultra mentioned. I have a one piece in my car and it marginally effected the amount of lash. If anything there is now a much more pronounced thunk. It’s really noticeable in reverse when I am modulating the clutch.


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[FR-S2GT86]

Okay, here's my serious answer:

This is really an inherent trait of MOST manual transmissions, and only a problem to the one who PERCEIVES it to be a problem.

An automatic transmission has a torque converter to prevent your engine from stalling when you approach a stop. In a manual transmission vehicle, your foot, through the clutch pedal, hydraulic lines, clutch fork, throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate, has to substitute as that torque converter. A driver will eventually become accustomed to how his vehicle responds to his commands and his vehicle will let him know when it is time to operate the pedal.

If your car jerks, you can always just SLIGHTLY engage the clutch until it stops. You don't have to push it in all the way, and it's not going to hurt anything at low speeds as long as you're not revving the engine up while performing the manuver. Once you get the car to stop jerking, then release it a bit more until you find a smooth spot where it doesn't jerk anymore.

I think this is why enthusiasts prefer driving manual transmissions. It forces you to become more INVOLVED in the act of driving.

But really, if you just get up a few MPH (or KPH) you can just shift to second and not have to deal with it.

[Ohio Enthusiast]

I'm pretty sure the OP is asking about lurching while in 1st gear and the clutch engaged (i.e. the pedal is not depressed). This happens due to the high gear ratio of 1st gear (with the Twins, particularly the 2017+ ones, having a very tall 1st gear), translating small throttle inputs into large vehicle movements. This tapers off rapidly as you go up in gears, barely showing in 2nd and not at all in 3rd and higher. The same typically happens in reverse as well to a lesser degree, since reverse is usually between 1st and 2nd in ratio in most cars (but closer to 1st).

The best advice is to be smooth with the throttle in 1st and reverse, especially when coming on and coming off the throttle - don't stamp on the pedal, instead gradually apply pressure or reduce pressure.