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Old 08-29-2019, 06:48 PM   #15
ermax
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It's a 2017, turboed, holding several championships and a bunch of class/lap records, all on the same original engine the car came with.



Preventative maintenance and modification appropriate for the type of driving being done is key, IMO.



My oil temp rarely exceeds 225F, and has never been over 230F, even though my turbo is oil cooled.



Do you have an oil cooler on your car? What do you do with it?


No cooler. Autox only and when it spun the bearing it was after cruising at 35mph around 2400rpm for 30 minutes until I broke free of traffic and did a single blast through the gears and it spun at the top of 4th. Oil temps were probably around 204 at the start of the pull. I never run it hard until it’s up to temp (oil not coolant). Consistent oil changes. It doesn’t consume oil at all and was perfect when it went. I do run it to redline on a consistent basis just as I have with all my cars.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:08 PM   #16
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No cooler. Autox only and when it spun the bearing it was after cruising at 35mph around 2400rpm for 30 minutes until I broke free of traffic and did a single blast through the gears and it spun at the top of 4th. Oil temps were probably around 204 at the start of the pull. I never run it hard until it’s up to temp (oil not coolant). Consistent oil changes. It doesn’t consume oil at all and was perfect when it went. I do run it to redline on a consistent basis just as I have with all my cars.
Have you ever seen what your peak oil temp might be? That's when the damage likely happened, and then slowly kept getting worse until one day, boom, spun bearing.

Preparation is key.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:37 PM   #17
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Agree,


Most oil related failures seem to come down to two factors



Excessivly high oil temps especially when using light viscosity oils


Small pieces of engine sealant or other contaminants blocking or partially blocking oil galeries causing oil starvation.


Very rarely its some other weird cause like oil pump failure.
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:50 PM   #18
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Hey looking to gain some wisdom of the crowd on oil starvation issues with the FA20.
I have a few questions:

1. Doing lots of track days(hpde not racing) is it worth it to buy oil starvation preventive mods? Like baffle, oil pick, or sump change, accusump etc.

2. Of these different options what's the most effective way address the problem from a dollars vs risk point of view?

3. does going from N/A -> FI change the equation above?


Maybe I should post this in the tracking section...
Oil starvation is only an issue on this engine if you're running full aero and r-comps.

If your tires are street tires, you won't pull enough lateral Gs to cause problems.
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Old 08-30-2019, 01:25 PM   #19
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Oil starvation is only an issue on this engine if you're running full aero and r-comps.

If your tires are street tires, you won't pull enough lateral Gs to cause problems.
I've seen many national level cars with both aero and/or slicks, on extended bankings (think ACS or Daytona) without issue. Of course, these cars all are better prepared than the average street guy who is trying to spend the bare minimum or not spend at all!
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:47 PM   #20
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I've seen many national level cars with both aero and/or slicks, on extended bankings (think ACS or Daytona) without issue. Of course, these cars all are better prepared than the average street guy who is trying to spend the bare minimum or not spend at all!
I should have added “an issue to plan for” to my post. The point is, oil starvation is not an issue until you’ve generated enough lateral force.

It’s like saying “I want better braking performance” and spend money on everything but the stock tires.
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