Alignment question

[n0thing]

In order to dial in the proper camber with the SPC, you may have to loosen/adjust the toe simultaneously. One time the alignment guy couldn't get pass -1.5 no matter how much he turned the cam bolt. Then as soon as he loosen the toe adjuster, it went to -3.

[Dee]

Originally Posted by n0thing

In order to dial in the proper camber with the SPC, you may have to loosen/adjust the toe simultaneously. One time the alignment guy couldn't get pass -1.5 no matter how much he turned the cam bolt. Then as soon as he loosen the toe adjuster, it went to -3.

Ah I see. The tech said if I had any issues or wanted a change he would do it for free so I will give him one more try. How exactly do you adjus the camber on these? Isn’t the ring supposed to hit a notch on the arm or something?

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Dee

So to make this short, the front alignment was exactly what I wanted. 1.8 camber 0 toe.

However in the rear, the technician said he could get 1.3 camber on the left rear(exactly what I wanted), but on the right rear he could only get down to 2.1 camber. So I had to settle and get 2.1 camber on both sides of the rear

So you were using camber adjustment to minimize rear camber for street, not to maximize it for track, right?

-2.1 rear camber is fine as long as you keep rear toe minimized. I'd go for zero rear toe.

Originally Posted by Dee

I think he was able to get very little toe, like 2%, in the rear with -1.3* camber. So, why was he not able to get 1.3 on the right side?

2% rear toe? Toe is generally reported as either mm, fractions of an inch, or degrees, or sometimes arc-minutes. Units are easy at zero, 0° = 0 mm = 0 in. = 0 arc-minutes

Can't speak to clunking issue...

[Dee]

Originally Posted by ZDan

So you were using camber adjustment to minimize rear camber for street, not to maximize it for track, right?

-2.1 rear camber is fine as long as you keep rear toe minimized. I'd go for zero rear toe.



2% rear toe? Toe is generally reported as either mm, fractions of an inch, or degrees, or sometimes arc-minutes. Units are easy at zero, 0° = 0 mm = 0 in. = 0 arc-minutes

Can't speak to clunking issue...

Found my before and after sheet. .4mm toe in the left rear and .8mm toe in the right rear. He stated he could 0 the toe in the rear if he was able to put more negative camber.

And also he was able to get .2mm toe in the left rear with -1.3 camber, but the best he could do was .4mm with -2.1 camber on the right rear.

So that led me to believe he doesn’t know how to adjust the lower control arm possibly

[n0thing]

Originally Posted by Dee

Ah I see. The tech said if I had any issues or wanted a change he would do it for free so I will give him one more try. How exactly do you adjus the camber on these? Isn’t the ring supposed to hit a notch on the arm or something?

As you turn the camber bolt, it (round silver ring) pushes against the notch on the arm, thus the bottom portion of the knuckle goes out. If you loosen the toe arm in front, that'll give it more room to play with.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Dee

Found my before and after sheet. .4mm toe in the left rear and .8mm toe in the right rear. He stated he could 0 the toe in the rear if he was able to put more negative camber.

And also he was able to get .2mm toe in the left rear with -1.3 camber, but the best he could do was .4mm with -2.1 camber on the right rear.

So that led me to believe he doesn’t know how to adjust the lower control arm possibly

You could run -2 both sides, IMO that's totally streetable if toe is minimal. You have 0.4mm+0.2mm = 0.6mm total rear toe-in, that's only:
sin-1(0.6mm/627mm) = 0.05° total, that's near enough to zero.

But yeah, with adjustable arms you'd think you could get it where you want it.