CSG Mike's observations on dampers/coilovers

[Griever423]

I agree with the original post. My first impression getting deep into a corner with the BRZ was shocking. I was blown away with the turn in and how the car "bites" into the corner. Honestly I'm afraid to mess with the suspension because it's so good the way it is.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

"Automotive industry research has found building a complete car out of spare parts could cost more than five times its original value..."

Going forward, I'll revise my estimates accordingly.

Originally Posted by Griever423

I agree with the original post. My first impression getting deep into a corner with the BRZ was shocking. I was blown away with the turn in and how the car "bites" into the corner. Honestly I'm afraid to mess with the suspension because it's so good the way it is.

Outstanding! Now you can spend your money learning to drive instead of throwing parts at it without knowing exactly what they're going to do for you, an individual driver with his own individual needs. That's a win-win in this hobby.

Later, after you're getting the max out of the OEM components, you can choose what to upgrade based upon what you've learned through experience, once again maximizing your bang for the buck. The fastest amateurs I know are guys with relatively undeveloped cars but, man, are they fast for what they're driving.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

So for ~$1400, would you rather go with springs and struts, or coilovers?

I'd go camber plates, rear control arms, and springs.

[Panman]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd go camber plates, rear control arms, and springs.

So which Camber plates would you recommend (Price/Performance), the options for standard shocks+springs seem to be:


Whiteline (Non adjustable, some concerns around QC)
Raceseng
HVT


Any other (reasonably priced) options?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Panman

So which Camber plates would you recommend (Price/Performance), the options for standard shocks+springs seem to be:


Whiteline (Non adjustable, some concerns around QC)
Raceseng
HVT


Any other (reasonably priced) options?

We think the RaceSeng camber plates are the best option, and SPL LCA for the rear.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd go camber plates, rear control arms, and springs.

Keeping the OEM struts?

[fooddude]

I think he's just trying to say alignment is more important for him at that price point, than new springs/dampers/coilovers.

[fooddude]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

and SPL LCA for the rear.

Why are SPL LCA's your top choice? ..or are they just the best bang for the buck and still good quality for the money?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by fooddude

Why are SPL LCA's your top choice? ..or are they just the best bang for the buck and still good quality for the money?

Top notch quality at a competitive price?

A company that actually races and uses/tests their own product on track? I'll take it. A company like this is rare.

[Fizz]

Hi Mike, perhaps it was you or someone else, but I thought you said the SPC arms are known to have alignment creep?

[Efferalgan]

I went through the entire topic (just to realise that I need to read tons of other stuff and try at least something with own buttdyno before buying something) and came to understanding that KW V3s are most commonly used as a single reference point for something worthwhile under $2.5k which allows for small (0.75-1.5'') drop (while keeping things overall not worse than stock) and comfortable DD (with proper damping) and still capable enough for occasional non-pro track use. Ohlins R&T seems to be a similar "golden standard" for $800-1000 more.

@CSG Mike what do you think about Japanese stuff: HKS HiperMAX IV GT, Tanabe Sustec Z40, Cusco Street Zero-A? Are they in the same league as KW V3 for reasonably comfortable DD on not particularly perfect roads + occasional track events?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Efferalgan

I went through the entire topic (just to realise that I need to read tons of other stuff and try at least something with own buttdyno before buying something) and came to understanding that KW V3s are most commonly used as a single reference point for something worthwhile under $2.5k which allows for small (0.75-1.5'') drop (while keeping things overall not worse than stock) and comfortable DD (with proper damping) and still capable enough for occasional non-pro track use. Ohlins R&T seems to be a similar "golden standard" for $800-1000 more.

@CSG Mike what do you think about Japanese stuff: HKS HiperMAX IV GT, Tanabe Sustec Z40, Cusco Street Zero-A? Are they in the same league as KW V3 for reasonably comfortable DD on not particularly perfect roads + occasional track events?

The low end japanese stuff is not any better than any other low end product, for the most part. The high end stuff, however, is great.

[Sypher]

@CSG Mike i was looking at fortune auto 500's with the swift spring upgrade. what do you think about these as 95%DD with 6-8 autox events and 2-4 track events a year. Mind you i'm not really shooting to win anything. just lower the car while picking up a little adjust ability and performance.

[TrogDor the Burninator]

Originally Posted by Efferalgan

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I went through the entire topic (just to realise that I need to read tons of other stuff and try at least something with own buttdyno before buying something) and came to understanding that KW V3s are most commonly used as a single reference point for something worthwhile under $2.5k which allows for small (0.75-1.5'') drop (while keeping things overall not worse than stock) and comfortable DD (with proper damping) and still capable enough for occasional non-pro track use. Ohlins R&T seems to be a similar "golden standard" for $800-1000 more.

I am a HUGE fan of the KW V3s ...

I know they aren't "Racing spec only" coilovers, but I really think they nailed the valving, and more importantly, the softer front end spring rate compared to the rear (340 front and 400 rear) ...

Combined with some Raceseng CasCam plates I couldn't be happier with my car's performance at my recent NASA event. While I do have a bit of body roll, I never felt like I was losing grip from it, and could always go with a wee bit more of stiffness in the front or rear bars.

They are also VERY streetable for daily drivers ... While my girlfriend complains somewhat about the ride (she drives a a super smooth new Honda Accord) it is usually because I have left the track settings in place. You can definitely alter the compression and rebound settings to get a smoother ride, rivaling the stock suspension but with a bit more preciseness due to the stiffer springs.