Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[fenton]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Anyone had a chance to dyno the ESC with just drag reduction mode and hopefully vs completely off the same day for comparison?

This might sound crazy but I might get this kit and run it in drag reduction mode only. 10-20lb-ft more than stock peak torque everywhere will be about perfect for me.

I have a question, if the drag reduction works off the manifold pressure to control motor speed, why can't it be used to maintain boost (pressure) when WOT as well?

DR is used to match manifold pressure to negate the effects of having the SC in the intake track.

I dont think it will net 20tq though. It will make the engine happier, my guess is about 5 to 10tq though.

The bread and butter of this is the WOT operation, the DR is just a nice touch that maintains your previous NA performance.

[neutron256]

Originally Posted by rusty959

Sounds about right. And honestly for me, a 4:1 ratio is perfect. I doubt I would ever top that.

25.5V is about what I was expecting. I'm just curious how a setup like this would run with say a few hundred farads or so in parallel. If that 21V could be held closer to that 25V range the performance benefit would be pretty substantial. I know this has been talked about here and there but as far as I know hasn't been tried. Someone should send a kit to @neutron256 and let him throw his caps he has laying around on it to see what happens.

Running caps in parallel is one of the things I plan to try when I get my system up and running.

[autobrz]

Originally Posted by fenton

Ill let Rob respond to this properly.

Maybe you can elaborate as well, are you meaning to maintain boost in the higher RPM?

Because keeping boost up requires more motor speed, and amps which both the motor and the controller are not capable.

I meant I would like boost to be the same across all rpm range which I guess means limiting boost to 1 psi across the board in order to not feel a drop-off in torque. I figured drag reduction requires changing motor speed already, it might be doable when the WOT means maintaining 1 psi?

Why do I want a slower car? because I like how the stock motor feels the best at 6500 rpms and like to keep that character of the motor even if it means slower. I'm not racing anyone and in the narrow and winding canyon roads, having more power sucks and is probably dangerous for my driving skills, lol...

p.s. the reason why a lot more power sucks in the canyon roads is because I can't put my foot down for nearly as long before having to brake and I have to brake a lot earlier and the driving becomes more work and less fun.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by autobrz

I meant I would like boost to be the same across all rpm range which I guess means limiting boost to 1 psi across the board in order to not feel a drop-off in torque. I figured drag reduction requires changing motor speed already, it might be doable when the WOT means maintaining 1 psi?

Why do I want a slower car? because I like how the stock motor feels the best at 6500 rpms and like to keep that character of the motor even if it means slower. I'm not racing anyone and in the narrow and winding canyon roads, having more power sucks and is probably dangerous for my driving skills, lol...

p.s. the reason why a lot more power sucks in the canyon roads is because I can't put my foot down for nearly as long before having to brake and I have to brake a lot earlier and the driving becomes more work and less fun.

DR looks at matching a certain level of vacuum, to do that it pulses the motor. Im not sure how that theory would transfer into maintaining positive boost but i cant imagine it is that great.

Honestly, i can kind of see where you are going here with the "maintaining the engine's characteristics"...however, If you could drive one of these phantom supercharged cars you would see that it isn't a crazy amount of power.

Its very smooth/fluid and above 4000 rpm it just feels like you got more power.

First person ever i have met saying, "sucks having more power".... that just sounds crazy :P

What could be possible is "sucks having too MUCH power" IE having so much power that you wheels are spinning to 7000rpm every time you touch the gas in 2nd or third gear. That i could see.

Im sorry im just having a hard time reasoning with this, all for just 1psi.

Long story short, yes its probably possible..... do i think its the best option... maybe not, but who am i to tell you what is right and wrong

[Gary in NJ]

Off to see Moto-Mike for a tune later today. Hopefully I'll have dyno results to share later today. While I've been modifying cars for decades, I've never participated in a dyno ECU tune (I've always just purchased a new ECU) so this will be a real learning experience for me. I've dyno tuned motorcycles, but changing jets and changing bits are two completely different functions.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Off to see Moto-Mike for a tune later today. Hopefully I'll have dyno results to share later today. While I've been modifying cars for decades, I've never participated in a dyno ECU tune (I've always just purchased a new ECU) so this will be a real learning experience for me. I've dyno tuned motorcycles, but changing jets and changing bits are two completely different functions.

Cool, all the best!

Make sure you pull the SC off and use the stock intake for a baseline.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by fenton

Cool, all the best!

Make sure you pull the SC off and use the stock intake for a baseline.

Do you think there would be much of a difference between just leaving the SC unarmed vs reverting to the stock intake tube?

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Why do I want a slower car? because I like how the stock motor feels the best at 6500 rpms and like to keep that character of the motor even if it means slower. I'm not racing anyone and in the narrow and winding canyon roads, having more power sucks and is probably dangerous for my driving skills, lol...

It sounds like all you need is a good tune. Have you checked out the thread for the openflash tuner? A tune and maybe a rear gear change would probably be plenty for you.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Do you think there would be much of a difference between just leaving the SC unarmed vs reverting to the stock intake tube?

I think this is one of those questions that have been floating around but not really confirmed - I would think so, but maybe not much? Ideally it would be nice to have 4 curves to compare: baseline, installed not tuned, installed tuned armed, installed tuned disarmed. Maybe even a WOT run with DR but not engaging the supercharger (switch disabled), but might be getting a little crazy. In the name of science!.. I also realize it's your extra effort and money to do that, so anything you could provide would be appreciated :happy0180:

[brichard0625]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

I think this is one of those questions that have been floating around but not really confirmed - I would think so, but maybe not much? Ideally it would be nice to have 4 curves to compare: baseline, installed not tuned, installed tuned armed, installed tuned disarmed. Maybe even a WOT run with DR but not engaging the supercharger (switch disabled), but might be getting a little crazy. In the name of science!.. I also realize it's your extra effort and money to do that, so anything you could provide would be appreciated :happy0180:

x2...hopefully we see some good results

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Do you think there would be much of a difference between just leaving the SC unarmed vs reverting to the stock intake tube?

Yes it will make a difference. The SC while not engaged is a restriction without drag reduction.

It isnt much for every day driving(part throttle - most people dont even notice) but going WOT without the charger on or DR activated will cause a loss in HP. Its really a edge case because you are never going to be going WOT without the system armed.

Its just good practice to get a solid baseline without the charger on and lets be honest its only a 2 minute job to disconnect.

I dont have DR on my current controller.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by fenton

I dont have DR on my current controller.

I was wondering about that.

I may do a double baseline to see what the effect really is. As you say...it's really a moot point anyway.

I'll see how much time Mike has to play.

[autobrz]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

It sounds like all you need is a good tune. Have you checked out the thread for the openflash tuner? A tune and maybe a rear gear change would probably be plenty for you.

That's an excellent suggestion. Thanks

[p00mba]

@Gary in NJ let me know how it goes i'm thinking about going out to him to get my tune as well...