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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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Old 06-04-2013, 01:23 PM   #15
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Link?

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Shorai-LFX14L2-BS12-Extreme-Lithium-Powersports/dp/B005FIUJ0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370362993&sr=8-1&keywords=lfx14l2-bs12"]Amazon.com: Shorai LFX14L2-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron Powersports Battery: Automotive[/ame]
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:34 PM   #16
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i always ran 0 or 2 gauge when i do relocation's in VW's. anything smaller and i had slow cranking issues. granted i am also turning over 6 cylinder engines, and im sure the cable length is a bit longer than it would be on this car.
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #17
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That little thing can crank this car? Lol
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #18
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A lot of guys use these, they are super cheap (like $30).

http://www.apexbattery.com/deka-etx-...batteries.html
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:00 PM   #19
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My battery relocate and why, planning on some wire re-routes and building a box for intake.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48103/ . I'm not to concerned about trunk space, as I'm building a track car, but it does take up a lot of space if your concerned about that. Sorry about photo size.
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:36 PM   #20
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Do those motorcycle and lipo batteries really work for our cars? Do they offer enough cca?
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:49 PM   #21
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Im wondering the same thing. I'm waiting to remove my spare and tools until I can get a light weight battery. Shedding 55lbs for $40 seems too good to be true lol
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:33 PM   #22
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Subbed as I want to run a WMI kit (reservoir where the stock battery is) but want to keep a full sized battery.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:45 PM   #23
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correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't our stock batteries (and most new/modern batteries) already sealed type?
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I swear I will punch your car if you put these on. Right in the face.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:02 PM   #24
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Subbed as I want to run a WMI kit (reservoir where the stock battery is) but want to keep a full sized battery.
The only reason to keep the full size battery is to save money. some of the small light weigth batterys have more cranking amps then the stock.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:10 PM   #25
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The only reason to keep the full size battery is to save money. some of the small light weigth batterys have more cranking amps then the stock.
How are they in the winter though ...? I need my car to start perfectly everytime in -30C
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:12 PM   #26
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How are they in the winter though ...? I need my car to start perfectly everytime in -30C
The stock won't do that....

My wrx would slow crank and such at -15F
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:22 PM   #27
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The stock won't do that....

My wrx would slow crank and such at -15F
Every car I've had up until now is fine. Usually I plug it in at that temperature but sometimes you have no choice (outside at events or not near a plugin). Obviously they aren't happy about it and crank slowly, but it does start fine.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:48 PM   #28
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You should at a minimum if you live in cold climates and plan to DD the car compare the CCA of the target battery to the CCA of the OEM battery. If it is comparable you should have no worries. Another thing to pay attention to with some of the smaller batteries in cold weather is they lose charge more quickly if they sit for long periods of time (multiple days or weeks). I'm not saying you cannot run a smaller batter (I have on four previous cars without issue), just saying if you DD try to get close to matching the CC and be wary of letting your car sit for weeks (not good anyway in cold weather even wiht the OEM battery).
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