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#85 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: 2013 "AVO Orange" FR-S
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,067
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Ok, I can chronicle two turbo kits on two different n/a cars that I've fitted and owned myself.
The first turbo kit was fitted up to a 2007 Subaru Outback 2.5i. At the time we put the car on it, it had about 174,000+ miles on the car (in three years!). To prepare the car for the turbo kit install, I first made sure everything on it was 100%, or at least as close to that as you could with that high of a mileage. What that meant was new oil, new filters, new spark plugs, a cleaning of the fuel injection system, and a general check of the rest of the systems. After the install and tuning, we ran it pretty much as is for a little over two years as the general shop car and event car. It was "retired" at 200k and sold to a new owner - after I had the timing belt done and some other maintenance work. AFAIK, it's still going. The second is the turbo kit on our FR-S, which was installed and dyno'd last October about 10 minutes before the trip down to SEMA. Yeah, literally we finished the last dyno run, rolled it off the rollers, and started driving. The road trip has been documented elsewhere, but we did the road tune calibration over two days down, two days back, in nearly every condition except a snow storm. I've put on about 10k miles on the kit, and I'd like to say that it's gone through a "normal" life, but it hasn't. I've used it to go to events, I do parts deliveries in it, I've use it for drift events. Other people have been driving it, up to and including pro drivers at the drift events. To date, maintenance has been 4 oil changes. That is higher than normal, but in my defense, it wasn't because it was low on oil. I wanted to test 10w40 vs. 0w20 vs. 5w30, so there was a couple of changes at only 1~2k. In regards to daily/weekly/monthly mechanical maintenance, we aren't running under the same situation as a normal user. I've had the undertray off the car so often that I can take it on and off in about 10 minutes. But that's because I've been fitting 3 different actuators for testing, fitting different boost controllers, and other equipment testing. If I wasn't doing that and just driving, I wouldn't have done anything but the oil changes and panel filter changes. Something I'd like to add to all of this, though, is that we don't even know how reliable the car is stock. It's the first year of this car still, and until the 3rd year, it's a toss-up on what to expect. I've thoroughly thrashed the clutch at 14.5k miles, and I generally blamed that on pushing up to 260ft/lbs of torque through a clutch designed for 140ft/lbs. But then I've now heard of two people in the 15k range on the n/a cars who's clutches are feeling soft/slipping, so maybe it's a separate issue. We will see. |
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| The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to AVOturboworld For This Useful Post: | 2forme (05-10-2013), akuhei (05-10-2013), official_george (05-10-2013), Pablitomarrero (05-13-2013), robispec (05-11-2013), SmsAlSuwaidi (05-10-2013), Sportsguy83 (05-10-2013) |
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#86 |
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Cool Stuff
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: Cool Car
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 486
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#87 | |
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I Love custom Turbo kits
Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: Limited BRZ
Location: Miami
Posts: 10,770
Thanks: 20,004
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Quote:
The AVO pump is not electrical, it is a MECHANICAL pump. As long as the cams are turning, the pump will suck oil on one side and push it out on the other. It will fail in the same fashion your motor oil pump would fail. Yeah, its extremely rare one of those would fail.....
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#88 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: Scion FR-S Whiteout
Location: San Bruno, CA
Posts: 52
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
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#89 | |
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I Love custom Turbo kits
Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: Limited BRZ
Location: Miami
Posts: 10,770
Thanks: 20,004
Thanked 8,346 Times in 4,361 Posts
Mentioned: 441 Post(s)
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Quote:
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/96.pdf
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#90 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: FR-S 10 series
Location: Guaynabo, Puerto Rico
Posts: 736
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Can anyone provide me with AVO's instructions? I want to look them over, ive searched for a while and cant seem to find it...
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#91 | |
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Boosted
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: Not a supra....yet
Location: Riverside,CA/ Abu Dhabi,UAE
Posts: 2,925
Thanks: 487
Thanked 1,203 Times in 812 Posts
Mentioned: 90 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SmsAlSuwaidi For This Useful Post: | Pablitomarrero (05-13-2013) |
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#92 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: FR-S 10 series
Location: Guaynabo, Puerto Rico
Posts: 736
Thanks: 370
Thanked 384 Times in 240 Posts
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
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#93 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Drives: Slow
Location: U.S.
Posts: 261
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I would def have a good shop install the kit. A friend of mine had his turbo kit installed by our mutual friend who is an awesome mechanic. The company shipped the kit with a 10psi wastegate instead of a 7psi one (which was what the ecu was tuned for). The mechanic was quick to find this out and told the friend not to get into boost until the proper wastegate was installed. He didnt take his advice and put a rod through his block at 90mph. Point is even if you install the parts correctly it can still go wrong..
Have a good shop install it. |
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#94 | |
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Boosted
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: Not a supra....yet
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Quote:
it all comes down to preference and how much you are willing to risk.
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#95 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Drives: Slow
Location: U.S.
Posts: 261
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If your mechanically inclined and have all the tools why not? If your unsure about something this forum will answer any questions you have which is an awesome tool to have. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to civdaddy For This Useful Post: | Sportsguy83 (05-13-2013) |
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#96 | |
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Boosted
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: Not a supra....yet
Location: Riverside,CA/ Abu Dhabi,UAE
Posts: 2,925
Thanks: 487
Thanked 1,203 Times in 812 Posts
Mentioned: 90 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
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, but im very motivated about doing this and i know a few forums members are going to be willing to help me out. I'm saving up for tools and using friends and cousins garages to do most installs. the reason is I'm an international student down here and mostly everything i own thats fancy is back home.
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#97 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Whiteout
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 1,406
Thanks: 116
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The original question about reliability lies in hands of the owner and the diligence of their maintenance. I recommend doing your own install if, and only if, you feel comfortable doing so. Doing it yourself gives you a very intimate understanding of how the thing works, where things could go wrong, and the pride of ownership of your work leads to more desire to keep the thing in top running order. I've gotten a little over 10k trouble free miles out of my P&L Motorsports kit and I can't stop recommending it to anyone within earshot. There are some things that will be tough depending on your skill sets and experience, depending on the kit you go with.
Just remember that the more power you go for the more you need to pay attention too how the car is running. 7-8lbs of boost is very easy for this car to handle, nets some good gains, and won't stress the drivetrain too much. 12 PSI is where the car will likely run into a wall at the current compression ratio for pump gas and also where the stock clutch is woefully incapable of doing its job. So on and so forth. Also don't forget the supporting mods for the car, you'll need gauges with a turbo setup, at the very least a Boost gauge. You'll want to consider a fuel pump upgrade and injectors as well. Wheels and tires are another thing you'll need to make sure are up to the task, 240-260WHP doesnt sound like a whole bunch but my car with "only" 260WHP will spin 255/35/18 tires without trying. This is where your suspension comes into play, camber and toe adjustments will need to be made to help the rear hook up. Different spring rates for the rear will help get the car to transfer weight over the rear wheels...I just recently swapped the front springs on my KW's to the rear and it was a night and day difference on how the car reacted to the throttle. Most people (not all) just see the turbo kit as a "fix" to the power deficit this car has, but in truth slapping a turbo on a mostly stock car might be fun for a little bit, but it will make driving it more work and also more dangerous. Turbo power comes on hard and fast with this engine, max boost is hit so easily and so early in the RPM range on these 7-8 PSI kits that you have all of your torque available at just 4500rpm in some cases. As for the supercharger route...I honestly have to say go with the Vortech, I finally drove Gmooker's car with the Vortech and it is pretty awesome the linearity of the power is definitely the strongest selling point of the kit, it's easy to drive it fast and to be honest it is deceptively quick. I think my turbo kit at 7 PSI will edge it out in a 1/4 mile dash, but it would be extremely close, and with all things being equal I think the Vortech would be easier to live with on a daily basis. I love my turbocharged FR-S, but i would be lying if I didn't say that i also like the Vortech kit as well. |
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| The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to Supermassive For This Useful Post: | Area86 (05-13-2013), cmss2000 (05-14-2013), Darryljr11 (05-13-2013), djdnz (05-14-2013), ebielat (05-13-2013), invzabomaster (05-14-2013), Pete (05-13-2013), PineappleFriedRice (05-14-2013), Sportsguy83 (05-13-2013) |
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#98 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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The question is, if the Vortech kit had been available when you bought your P&L kit, would you go back and buy the Vortech kit?
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- King Tut
Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 || Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 || Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 || 2013 Subaru BRZ || 2012 Porsche Cayman R || 2009 Chevrolet Z06 || 2009 BMW M3 || 2004 BMW M3 || 2004 Nissan 350Z |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to King Tut For This Useful Post: | Sportsguy83 (05-13-2013) |
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