follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine, Exhaust, Transmission

Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

Register and become an FT86Club.com member. You will see fewer ads

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-24-2013, 10:36 PM   #15
industrial
Add lightness!
 
industrial's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 17' WRX
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,253
Thanks: 380
Thanked 888 Times in 411 Posts
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff86 View Post
Your clutch is in between shifts and your boost is dropping. The flywheel has everything to do with how much you lose. Enough inertia at the flywheel combined with a quick enough shift and you're boost and power is still right there to kick you in your immediate ass. Further, evidence does support that the load from the fkywheel, perhaps due to the direct connection to the crank shaft, does influence the buliding of torque, This has nothing to do with turbo lag and nothing to do with "vrooms". I've been making good power building forced induction cars for years and just trying to convey experience. Take it or leave it.
Been driving and wrenching turbo cars for a while myself and I disagree with your statements and the general anti-flywheel for boosted cars mantra here. I'm not sure where that started.

Once the engine is up to speed...it's up to speed. If you want to build boost pressure fast after shifting, use a no-lift shift program. If you want to build boost between shifts, that's anti-lag. A heavy flywheel does jack all compared to those two things.

Do you have some data to back up what you're saying?

I'm saying is a light flywheel speeds up the acceleration and deceleration of the engine. Any boost you gain from pre-loading the engine another 10 pounds in the fraction of a second it takes for you to shift is peanuts in the grand scheme of things. A heavy flywheel to help build boost doesn't make any sense to me. If you want to be able to launch more consistently a heavy flywheel will probably help. No nearly as much as launch control though. If our car was heavy and needed the extra weight of a heavy flywheel to accelerate sharply from a stop you might have a point. That's simply not the case here. There is no reason for a heavy flywheel other than drive-ability reasons. Taking off smoothly, controlling revs, shifting smoothly, etc.

Once you start turning and braking, shaving 10 pounds of rotating weight off the front of the car as well as being able to manipulate the engine faster is just full of win.
industrial is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to industrial For This Useful Post:
GT86_PRAGUE (12-23-2014), Supermassive (04-25-2013)
Old 04-25-2013, 03:27 AM   #16
Jeff86
Senior Member
 
Jeff86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 86 (FR-S)
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 645
Thanks: 462
Thanked 215 Times in 149 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by industrial View Post
Been driving and wrenching turbo cars for a while myself and I disagree with your statements and the general anti-flywheel for boosted cars mantra here. I'm not sure where that started.

Once the engine is up to speed...it's up to speed. If you want to build boost pressure fast after shifting, use a no-lift shift program. If you want to build boost between shifts, that's anti-lag. A heavy flywheel does jack all compared to those two things.

Do you have some data to back up what you're saying?

I'm saying is a light flywheel speeds up the acceleration and deceleration of the engine. Any boost you gain from pre-loading the engine another 10 pounds in the fraction of a second it takes for you to shift is peanuts in the grand scheme of things. A heavy flywheel to help build boost doesn't make any sense to me. If you want to be able to launch more consistently a heavy flywheel will probably help. No nearly as much as launch control though. If our car was heavy and needed the extra weight of a heavy flywheel to accelerate sharply from a stop you might have a point. That's simply not the case here. There is no reason for a heavy flywheel other than drive-ability reasons. Taking off smoothly, controlling revs, shifting smoothly, etc.

Once you start turning and braking, shaving 10 pounds of rotating weight off the front of the car as well as being able to manipulate the engine faster is just full of win.
Well I know we've gone off topic here, but I decided to do some checking. Like I said I don't want to be a know-it-all and frankly, this is something I've just done without questioning for a number of years. I went back to my old forums where we were all pushing builds well past 400whp. The general consensus at the time was to resurface or replace the stock flywheel when we installed clutches that would hold the power. The reasons for retaining the stock weight were everything I indicated above... and the 10 second car guys were all doing it hehe.

So did i come up with any proof? Unfortunately no. I do still believe what I'm saying regarding maintaining boost based on those discussions, though. In addition, streetability was coming into play with the firmer clutch and the stock flywheels just worked better. I'd say that at lower power levels (below 300whp) it's probably far less important. Still, I'm getting more serious about going to a small turbo on this car and if I do that the stock flywheel is staying in there. It would be tough to convince me that rapidly dropping RPMs was good for boost. Lets just agree to disagree on that point.
Jeff86 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff86 For This Useful Post:
industrial (04-25-2013)
Old 04-25-2013, 07:32 AM   #17
industrial
Add lightness!
 
industrial's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 17' WRX
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,253
Thanks: 380
Thanked 888 Times in 411 Posts
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Well, you'll see drag guys also keep heavy flywheels because they are usually running slicks. The more traction you have under your car, the more energy you have to store in the flywheel to get some wheel spin on launch. Might seem silly to even think about but with drag slicks on this car stock, you'll probably bog off the line unless you did a 7000 rpm dump with a 4 puck clutch and a 30 pound flywheel. For drag guys, it's that balance they are looking for too. The bog caused by too much traction and too little stored mass in the flywheel for drag guys is probably where the whole "lightweight flywheel sux for turbo" started.
industrial is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Special Deals on Clutch Masters Clutch & Flywheel Combo! KronosPerformance Transmission and Driveline 15 08-25-2012 12:22 PM
Clutch Masters Clutch and Flywheel Kits for FR-S and BRZ available at Redline360 Redline360 Transmission and Driveline 2 07-30-2012 10:01 AM
Clutch Masters Clutch Kits | Island Import Performance IslandImportPerformance Transmission and Driveline 1 07-20-2012 12:06 PM
ATS carbon clutch collaboration model prototype clutch 86 & BRZ kanundrum Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 41 02-27-2012 03:48 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.