motor goes BOOM **UPDATED PICS 4/12/13** - Page 4 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Frs300 · 03-31-2013, 11:50 AM

when it happened i could hear the bov loud and clear.

Tansey that could be..cause only the top of the motor appears to be messed up.might be a different story after its opened up. all of the damnage is under the intake

Huehuecoyotl · 03-31-2013, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frs300

when it happened i could hear the bov loud and clear.

so that sounds like a stuck wastegate...melted line, wrong spring, whatever caused it to not actuate to the position it needed to being at the right place and right time

neither here nor there really, if it wasnt setup right I dont know whose call it was to let you drive it...

keep your head up, its just parts

its a risk we're all taking, sorry this happened!

The right hing to do is a complete tear down even if it appears like damage is limited to one area, all parts need to be checked out that this point you dont know what else is scored etc.

Frs300 · 03-31-2013, 11:55 AM

if i was worried about the car getting messed up i would have kept it stock

mad_sb · 03-31-2013, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frs300

i went into this knowing it would void the warranty. didnt matter if toyota installed it or some other shop...they should still stand by the work they did and offer some sort of fix. it shouldnt have blown up at 7psi if installed correctly.

done using maf

So, you said the oil an coolant are still in the block.. are you sure the motor let go? If it had a bad boost leak it would run but not make power and if they boost leak eventually became a coupler blowing off under pressure you would hear a loud pop followed by the motor dying..... I could not tell from the pics if the block was perforated or if there was just coolant everywhere, like from a line bursting or something of the sort..

Never mind, i see the hole now...

Frs300 · 03-31-2013, 12:02 PM

if you look at first pic under the hose clam you can see the hole. second pic by the alternator bolt oth side of it and under it. third pic with the ic pipe you can see the hole again by the pully to the left of it by the bolt. blew off the dust cap for the trans and another hole under the catch can.

EDIT: so is that the block around that area then?

MattF · 03-31-2013, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frs300

was just normal driving took off in first spun the tires regained traction shifted to second got to about 6k rpms or so and the motor shut off with a loud bang.

I wouldn't describe this as normal driving. Especially without a wide band or a boost gauge installed. You are just asking for trouble without them.

Frs300 · 03-31-2013, 01:50 PM

i was taking the car home to install a aem failsafe/wideband but didnt make it that far obviously

Tansey86 · 03-31-2013, 01:53 PM

I think its safe to say that a boost gauge and wide band are necessary when having a 3rd party install a turbo kit on the car.

Frs300 · 03-31-2013, 01:59 PM

i would have to agree 100%

xwd · 03-31-2013, 02:05 PM

I would say it's necessary no matter who installs the kit. You never know when parts might fail, like the wastegate vacuum line melting like others have mentioned...

sw20kosh · 03-31-2013, 02:07 PM

BOV can't cause a boost spike. It's only job is to let out pressure during throttle lift.

The wastegate can cause a boost spike. It's sole purpose is to open when it senses the correct pressure in the charge side. If it doesn't sense that pressure for what ever reason or if it has the wrong spring....bad things happen.

Bad fuel pump install could have caused lean state.

A dyno tune/boost gauge (at the minimum) should be done before boosting. This allows you to asses the system's functionality in a controlled/safe environment. Every install I have done on my own car never came out 100% due to the complexity and the shear number of parts that goes into these kits. All mistakes were caught before or on the dyno.

Hope toyota can do something for you. Good luck

xwd · 03-31-2013, 02:08 PM

It's hard to see the hole. Where is it in relation to the flywheel inspection hole? The one which is plugged with the rubber plug. Either way that's not where the heads are located, they are on either side of the block, that's the block.

sw20kosh · 03-31-2013, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwx

It's hard to see the hole. Where is it in relation to the flywheel inspection hole? The one which is plugged with the rubber plug. Either way that's not where the heads are located, they are on either side of the block, that's the block.

Hard to tell from pics.

Yep, the heads are located on the right and left side of the engine.

Frs300 · 03-31-2013, 02:13 PM

its all under the intake area. and out to the sides of it a little bit....i will have better pics tomorrow and will know for sure without a doubt.

03-31-2013, 12:02 PM	#47
Frs300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Pile of junk Location: florida Posts: 1,190 Thanks: 264 Thanked 968 Times in 413 Posts Mentioned: 232 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	if you look at first pic under the hose clam you can see the hole. second pic by the alternator bolt oth side of it and under it. third pic with the ic pipe you can see the hole again by the pully to the left of it by the bolt. blew off the dust cap for the trans and another hole under the catch can. EDIT: so is that the block around that area then? Last edited by Frs300; 03-31-2013 at 03:52 PM.

03-31-2013, 01:53 PM	#50
Tansey86 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Drives: 2003 Subaru Outback Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 1,318 Thanks: 154 Thanked 529 Times in 300 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I think its safe to say that a boost gauge and wide band are necessary when having a 3rd party install a turbo kit on the car. __________________ " I know a lot about cars, man. I can look at any car's headlights and tell you exactly which way it's coming. "

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03-31-2013, 11:50 AM	#43
Frs300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Pile of junk Location: florida Posts: 1,190 Thanks: 264 Thanked 968 Times in 413 Posts Mentioned: 232 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	when it happened i could hear the bov loud and clear. Tansey that could be..cause only the top of the motor appears to be messed up.might be a different story after its opened up. all of the damnage is under the intake

03-31-2013, 11:55 AM	#45
Frs300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Pile of junk Location: florida Posts: 1,190 Thanks: 264 Thanked 968 Times in 413 Posts Mentioned: 232 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	if i was worried about the car getting messed up i would have kept it stock

03-31-2013, 01:50 PM	#49
Frs300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Pile of junk Location: florida Posts: 1,190 Thanks: 264 Thanked 968 Times in 413 Posts Mentioned: 232 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	i was taking the car home to install a aem failsafe/wideband but didnt make it that far obviously

03-31-2013, 01:59 PM	#51
Frs300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Pile of junk Location: florida Posts: 1,190 Thanks: 264 Thanked 968 Times in 413 Posts Mentioned: 232 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	i would have to agree 100%

03-31-2013, 02:05 PM	#52
xwd Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Drives: 2013 DGM Subaru BRZ (Subie #9) Location: ATL, US Posts: 2,667 Thanks: 123 Thanked 861 Times in 552 Posts Mentioned: 32 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I would say it's necessary no matter who installs the kit. You never know when parts might fail, like the wastegate vacuum line melting like others have mentioned...

03-31-2013, 02:07 PM	#53
sw20kosh Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2013 Black FR-S Location: SF Posts: 3,030 Thanks: 881 Thanked 2,014 Times in 990 Posts Mentioned: 153 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	BOV can't cause a boost spike. It's only job is to let out pressure during throttle lift. The wastegate can cause a boost spike. It's sole purpose is to open when it senses the correct pressure in the charge side. If it doesn't sense that pressure for what ever reason or if it has the wrong spring....bad things happen. Bad fuel pump install could have caused lean state. A dyno tune/boost gauge (at the minimum) should be done before boosting. This allows you to asses the system's functionality in a controlled/safe environment. Every install I have done on my own car never came out 100% due to the complexity and the shear number of parts that goes into these kits. All mistakes were caught before or on the dyno. Hope toyota can do something for you. Good luck

03-31-2013, 02:08 PM	#54
xwd Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Drives: 2013 DGM Subaru BRZ (Subie #9) Location: ATL, US Posts: 2,667 Thanks: 123 Thanked 861 Times in 552 Posts Mentioned: 32 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	It's hard to see the hole. Where is it in relation to the flywheel inspection hole? The one which is plugged with the rubber plug. Either way that's not where the heads are located, they are on either side of the block, that's the block.

03-31-2013, 02:13 PM	#56
Frs300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Pile of junk Location: florida Posts: 1,190 Thanks: 264 Thanked 968 Times in 413 Posts Mentioned: 232 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	its all under the intake area. and out to the sides of it a little bit....i will have better pics tomorrow and will know for sure without a doubt.

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