Engine oil suggestion.

[icemang17]

wow 300v is very low zinc........much lower than I prefer....BUT for a modern engine, that should be fine.....on older engines (like my 928) were designed around much higher-zinc phosphorus levels...and will eat themselves VERY quickly without the lubricating properties of zinc (zddp)

The reason the modern oils are so low is SMOG......since the zinc in theory an cause accelerated wear in the catalytic converters.....

[Fleshy]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Yup, that's what our BRZ is driven on, year round.

If you're in a REALLY cold area, 0W20 may be better for the cold start. Oil change intervals are best determined by UOA (with optional TBN). Changing oil early will only hurt your wallet, but it may give you extra peace of mind. Not everyone is comfortable with extended oil change intervals.

I really do not understand why there is so much focus on cold viscosity 0 vs 5? IMHO for a double duty DD/track car I would just go 0-30 and be done with it especially with any group V syn due to the base (conventional oil would be a different story). Technically even at 80F it is a cold start so why not.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Fleshy

I really do not understand why there is so much focus on cold viscosity 0 vs 5? IMHO for a double duty DD/track car I would just go 0-30 and be done with it especially with any group V syn due to the base (conventional oil would be a different story). Technically even at 80F it is a cold start so why not.

If you've ever been in a cold climate, then you'll see a HUGE difference in how the engine starts. Sub-30F starts. Keep in mind, the factory recommendation is for "normal" use (aka not racing) and made for a wide variety of climates, anywhere from California to Canada (100F summer starts to -20F winter starts).

Gulf-spec cars will be equipped differently, as they see extremely high temperatures.

This is extreme, but you'll see what I mean.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIsG_8TVokw"]Subaru Winter start up -44c - YouTube[/ame]

[Fleshy]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you've ever been in a cold climate, then you'll see a HUGE difference in how the engine starts. Sub-30F starts. Keep in mind, the factory recommendation is for "normal" use (aka not racing) and made for a wide variety of climates, anywhere from California to Canada (100F summer starts to -20F winter starts).

Gulf-spec cars will be equipped differently, as they see extremely high temperatures.

This is extreme, but you'll see what I mean.

I guess i was not clear with my point on my post. I am not talking about extremely cold conditions and am well aware of factory recommended vs racing oil differences.
I am saying whats the point of going to a 5w-10w vs 0w...strictly referring to group V or IV (due to the lack of VI additives and base used) and forgoing the benefits that we would see even here in a warm climate during a cold start and just stepping up to 0w-30 and seeing the same SAE 30 during track vs a 5w-30. Only referring to a double duty street and track driven car here.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Fleshy

I guess i was not clear with my point on my post. I am not talking about extremely cold conditions and am well aware of factory recommended vs racing oil differences.
I am saying whats the point of going to a 5w-10w vs 0w...strictly referring to group V or IV (due to the lack of VI additives and base used) and forgoing the benefits that we would see even here in a warm climate during a cold start and just stepping up to 0w-30 and seeing the same SAE 30 during track vs a 5w-30. Only referring to a double duty street and track driven car here.

Realistically? A 0W base stock will be thinner at temp, than a 5W or 10W base stock. Even with 300V. 30W is a range, of viscosities, not a hard number. The oil does get a bit toasty at temp...

FWIW, we saw no hp difference between the factory fill 0W20 and 5W30 300V on the dyno. Not even within the range of error.

[Fleshy]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Realistically? A 0W base stock will be thinner at temp, than a 5W or 10W base stock. Even with 300V. 30W is a range, of viscosities, not a hard number. The oil does get a bit toasty at temp...

FWIW, we saw no hp difference between the factory fill 0W20 and 5W30 300V on the dyno. Not even within the range of error.

Modern PAO IV and group V syn oils do not use the 0w,5w,10winter as the base (Group I-III are different hence the VI additives).
Just because it is 0winter does not mean it will be measurably thinner at temp and may actually be thicker than an comparable 5w-30 (which some could argue may be a bad thing at temp heat transfer wise) that's the beauty of modern engineered syn oils (although one must pick wisely because all IV are not equal as we all know)
"30W is a range, of viscosities, not a hard number" I am confused? you mean SAE30 Or you mean weight and not winter?

"FWIW, we saw no hp difference between the factory fill 0W20 and 5W30 300V on the dyno" I am not concerned with HP like i said for a DD/track car and also looking at longevity and overall protection over say 100-150k for example.


Anyhow Run what you brung and have fun!