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Engine oil suggestion.
Hello guys,
I'll be attending my very first HPDE this coming weekend and getting stuff ready and prepin everything for the car. Brake fluids, pads, etc,. My problem now is that what oil do I use? The car is my DD and will bring the car to HPDEs probably 3-4 times this year. My oil is curretly Motul 0w20. I will be changing fresh oil for the event. Thinking of Motul 300v but what viscosity and specs if after that event it will be a DD? Will that viscosity (if i ever changed to a thicker one) will be an overkill given that it is more expensive and it just a day event? Just want to know that right thing to do for it. Thanks. |
5w30 for the race months
0w20 for the rest motul 300 in the tranny and rear diff upgrade brake fluid. done. |
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motul makes a quality product....far superior to the oil that our engines was designed to run....no worries....ZERO..... 3-4 events per year isn't that hard on the car.....as long as the oil is fresh prior to event (or sorta close)
My experience.....the quality of oil you run is HUGE, unreal really.....Motul makes a quality product, as does Royal Purple, Redline and Amsoil (I am a Amsoil dealer).... While I am not 100% certain of Motuls exact blending, one thing you DO NOT want to do is run true race oil in a STREET car.....true race oils do not have the proper amounts of detergents to keep the engine clean during extended oil change intervals and cope with excessive hydration if you park outside.....they are designed for extremely hard use with very short change intervals, hence the lack of detergents An example....my race 928 is a 4.5L V8 designed for heavy oils....I run Amsoil 15-50 racing....I take a sample every 2 hours on track to send out for analysis and changed around 6-8 hours....not from the analysis saying it needs to be changed, but because I can't handle the dark black oil..... Street cars go thousands of miles at least 150 hours on the engine between changes.....so you see the need to have the proper oil given your requirements |
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Since our engines were designed to run on 0W oil, I would stick with that. Both Amsoil and Redline make a 0W-30 oil that I think would be better for your car than any 5W-30.
Short form of the story is: 0W-XX oil is thinner at startup when it needs to be thinner to prevent wear, and just as thick at higher temperatures for a specific upper (XX) number. If you want to read the details, try this: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/ Personally, I am partial to Amsoil, but you really can't go wrong with either Redline or Amsoil; both companies make excellent products. |
300v i just changed out of mine was quite dark at 12k miles on the car, 4500 on the oil. I went back to the 8100 the 300v was just overkill for my use. I would stick with the 0w20 motul 8100 and just keep it changed regularly before events.
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Thanks for the insights guys. I'll keep those pointers in mind to take care of the car's life. I'm pumped up for the event!
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We run 300V in the CSG shop cars, and our current oil change is at about 6000 miles. I can assure you that the car has seen plenty of track time :) Re: 8100. It's a synthetic blend. 300V is a group V full synthetic. You want to prepare you car for the harshest condition you will expose it to (this applies to brake pads as well). If you plan on running one marathon a year, do you train by doing 2 mile jogs every day? In my experience, 8100 has broken down with JUST canyon driving; I used to use it before I ever started hitting the tracks, and UOA showed it be insufficient, even though it is a very highly regarded oil. As always, YMMV. We change our fluids based on test results from Blackstone, and recommend that anyone interested in extended oil change intervals to do the same. We carry the full line of Motul fluids. PM @CounterSpace Garage for more info, or visit our www.counterspacegarage.com 300V virgin oil analysis. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/psychoazn/VOA.jpg Oil analysis on my factory fill on the S2000 (Yes, I started from the begining) http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/psychoazn/UOA1.jpg Different oils I tried in my car, until I discovered 300V. Look at the viscosity break down. My car was strictly a daily driver/canyon carver at this point. Still zero track time! http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/psychoazn/UOA6.jpg Experimenting with different diff fluids. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75...oazn/Diff6.png |
As the voa/uoa's show, 300V has a decent amount of detergents/dispersants for street use. The caveat though is that 300V was recently reformulated and I do not believe that those levels will be the same. Regardless, you probably have at least enough for a 5k interval of track/street use, or possibly even 7,500 miles. Get a used oil analysis with TBN to find out.
As the voa's/uoa's show 300V has a high level of anti-wear additives like moly, zinc, and phosphorus. The 300V 0W-20 also has a robust HTHS and good kinematic viscosity at 100C, so it will be ideal for your application IMO. http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1329125318 Your best bet will be to google Motul USA's phone number and ask Joey these questions. Also ask him if he would recommend an oil change right before an event since anti-wear additives like ZDDP take some time/heat/mileage to activate. -Dennis |
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On a side note, I'm banned off BITOG cuz supposedly I "steal other people's UOAs" Quote:
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@CSG Mike 5w30 will be okay for DD use after the event? What can you suggest of oil change interval will be for my terms of application? |
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If you're in a REALLY cold area, 0W20 may be better for the cold start. Oil change intervals are best determined by UOA (with optional TBN). Changing oil early will only hurt your wallet, but it may give you extra peace of mind. Not everyone is comfortable with extended oil change intervals. |
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