RHD Engine bay layout from: CarTop (Japanese magazine). VLN car.

[Marrk]

Originally Posted by Fortunate Few

oil changes are going to be stupid easy now. (compared to my rx8)

Maybe.

But I'm just a driveway mechanic. Every time I look at that engine, I wonder if I am going to be able to work on it like I can on an inline-4. I guess I could learn it, tho.

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Marrk

Maybe.

But I'm just a driveway mechanic. Every time I look at that engine, I wonder if I am going to be able to work on it like I can on an inline-4. I guess I could learn it, tho.

What are you concerned about specifically?

The spark plugs might be difficult to get to. Mine are not to bad on my Impreza but the DOHC motors have plugs in a tough spot to access, however this isn't a turbo motor so less stuff is in the way.

My concerns about where the motor is now, moved back to right above the subframe, is access to the oil pan and headers. Normally they are VERY easy to access on Subarus but if the bolt locations are all right over the subframe, the engine might need to be raised to get to them

[Marrk]

The stuff I do is along the lines of:

--Oil and oil filter (I know it's on top, but that's a good thing?)
--valve adjustment
--coolant flush
--brake and clutch flush
--radiator flush
--will it have a timing chain or timing belt?
--spark plugs (you mentioned that)
--air filter (shouldn't be difficult here)
--I guess having two heads instead of one seems like twice the work

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Marrk

The stuff I do is along the lines of:

--Oil and oil filter (I know it's on top, but that's a good thing?) Subaru oil changes = easier than on your Fit
--valve adjustment Self-adjusting valves with shims, no service needed
--coolant flush Drain and refill or flush? All coolant access spots have lots of room.
--brake and clutch flush Both easy to get to, lots of room
--radiator flush Lots of room, easy to remove
--will it have a timing chain or timing belt? Chain, no maintenance
--spark plugs (you mentioned that)
--air filter (shouldn't be difficult here) 2 seconds to change
--I guess having two heads instead of one seems like twice the work It is, but they are also lighter and easier to handle

Responses in red.

[Marrk]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Responses in red.

Sounds good . . .

. . . except this -->> "--valve adjustment Self-adjusting valves with shims, no service needed" <<-- is a contradiction. If it has shims, then it is manually adjusted by replacement of the shims. And that means working on the heads. Two of them. And you said they were less than easy to reach.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by RegisBou

That intake scares me...From the throttle body out we already have the standard ripples in the tubing. Then it goes 90degree's left into the air box. Quite the angle I must say...

What I dont get is the HUGE (if I may) tube that comes out of the same main tube and wraps around the engine into a doughnut looking canister? Doesnt look like the pcv pipe because that one seems to be located near the throttle body.

Not only that but if you look closely at the air box there is another tube coming out from the bottom...

4 tubes? 2 of which make sense, the other 2...I dont even know!

Excellent question. I'm wondering if it is some variable intake acoustic stuff? Or a BOV/BPV, heh...

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Marrk

Sounds good . . .

. . . except this -->> "--valve adjustment Self-adjusting valves with shims, no service needed" <<-- is a contradiction. If it has shims, then it is manually adjusted by replacement of the shims. And that means working on the heads. Two of them. And you said they were less than easy to reach.

Well once the shims are in there and correct, they don't ever need to be touched again. Most of that work would be done with the engine out of the car during whatever work you were doing to the heads.

I'm not sure about the valve cover gaskets with this motor and accessibility, but once they are off you should be able to access the valvetrain without removing the motor. But I never saw any sort of valve adjustments ever done on the newer motors unless it was a major head job of some kind, some sort of large scale rebuild like a headgasket job or blown shortblock.

FYI, removing the motor entirely isn't that difficult of a job.

[Marrk]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Well once the shims are in there and correct, they don't ever need to be touched again. Most of that work would be done with the engine out of the car during whatever work you were doing to the heads.

I'm not sure about the valve cover gaskets with this motor and accessibility, but once they are off you should be able to access the valvetrain without removing the motor. But I never saw any sort of valve adjustments ever done on the newer motors unless it was a major head job of some kind, some sort of large scale rebuild like a headgasket job or blown shortblock.

FYI, removing the motor entirely isn't that difficult of a job.

I'm sorry, but one of us is deeply confused.

Valves are a wear item. They have to be adjusted. Not only that, but a shim-type adjustment usually requires removal of the cams. And, of course, you need a shim set or access to one. In other words, it's a big job. Rocker arms with screw-type adjustment are another story.

It will be interesting to see what type of valves are on the production FT-86.

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Marrk

I'm sorry, but one of us is deeply confused.

Valves are a wear item. They have to be adjusted. Not only that, but a shim-type adjustment usually requires removal of the cams. And, of course, you need a shim set or access to one. In other words, it's a big job. Rocker arms with screw-type adjustment are another story.

Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology, I don't know, its been awhile since I've had to deal with this (I've been working with the old OHV Subaru motors lately more than the new stuff).

The DOHC EJ's used buckets and you don't replace those unless you are doing a full valve job. They are considered a non-maintenance item. Here is a photo of the old style buckets on the left, and the new FB style valves on the right:

http://car.watch.impress.co.jp/img/c...ml/16.jpg.html

As for the new motors, not sure. I do know the shims on the EZ 6-cylinders are also non-maintenance not to mention ridiculously expensive ($75+ each) and the EZ motors are closer in design to the FB motors.

Either way, unless you had something go wrong, like a burnt valve or headgasket blow, or installing new cams, you won't have to worry about this at all.

Edit: Here is the maintenance schedule for the 2012 Impreza with the FB20 motor, 105,000 miles or ~10 years, inspect valve clearance. Thats it. I know for a fact that dealers DO NOT do this inspection unless something is actually wrong with the car.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance3.html

[Marrk]

^^There are a lot of smart guys on this forum. Maybe one of them can explain this.

Buckets and shims are not an either/or choice. They are two parts on the shim-type adjustment design.

Only self-adjusting valve designs require no adjustment. A self-adjusting design would be hydraulically self-adjusting — not often used on high-revving sports cars

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Marrk

^^There are a lot of smart guys on this forum. Maybe one of them can explain this.

Buckets and shims are not an either/or choice. They are two parts on the shim-type adjustment design.

Only self-adjusting valve designs require no adjustment. A self-adjusting design would be hydraulically self-adjusting — not often used on high-revving sports cars

Either way, I know that Subaru owners don't do valve adjustments on the current motors as a part of regular maintenance. Not unless the valves or tapping or its having misfires or something indicative of an actual problem. Although thats probably due to the 7+ hours of labor involved...

Subaru people tend to worry more about headgaskets, timing belts and burning valves (or blowing pistons due to oil starvation with the turbo motors) than actually adjusting the valves as a maintenance item.

Come to think of it, I should probably check mine. I'm at 110,000 miles and I need to do my timing belt soon. I do have the occasional misfire code. I should just pull the engine and do both.

[Spaceywilly]

There is definitely something up with the intake snorkus. I'm guessing there is some engine noised pumped into the cabin. This page of the training manual says something about it too... I wonder if someone could translate the larger parts of the text.

[Marrk]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Either way, I know that Subaru owners don't do valve adjustments on the current motors as a part of regular maintenance. Not unless the valves or tapping or its having misfires or something indicative of an actual problem. Although thats probably due to the 7+ hours of labor involved...

Subaru people tend to worry more about headgaskets, timing belts and burning valves (or blowing pistons due to oil starvation with the turbo motors) than actually adjusting the valves as a maintenance item.

Come to think of it, I should probably check mine. I'm at 110,000 miles and I need to do my timing belt soon. I do have the occasional misfire code. I should just pull the engine and do both.

Well, if you are saying that Subaru recommends that the valves don't need to be adjusted until 100,000 mi., then that's possible. Honda recommends that interval, too (although you'd be crazy to follow it).

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Spaceywilly

There is definitely something up with the intake snorkus. I'm guessing there is some engine noised pumped into the cabin. This page of the training manual says something about it too... I wonder if someone could translate the larger parts of the text.

This has been covered a few times, but yes, it appears to pipe tuned intake noise into the cabin.