Unichip map downloads and tuning

[Chillz]

Originally Posted by topnotch

Installed my unichip this weekend that just past. Install was quick and easy. Unichip was very helpful with helping install the remapping program on my laptop.
Thanx to Erin for all the help. Thanx Jack for recommending me to try the 92 octance with standard fuel and timing plus. I enjoy the sublte change to the vehicle.
I have the greddy intake and sp exhaust setup with the map program mention above for my map 1. For Map 0, I have 92 octane with standard fuel, standard timming.
I ran map 0 for two days and was impressed by the pick up in the rpm ranging from 3k to 6.5k. Switched to map 1 for two days and was enjoying the car more. The car revs faster under load and the rpms seems to move a bit faster.
When i Punch the car at 3k on I can feel the car take in the air on the greddy intake with ease. Unlike before the unichip, youll punch the car and it will lag a little and you can hear the car suck in all the air, but the rpm is barely climbing up. Not now, It climbs well. You hear the intake, u feel the car move and see the rpm climb all at the same time. Makes the car a blast to drive. I've punched on the freeway going sixty five. I punched on third gear at 2.5k. From a stop light i punched it. entering a freeway i punched it. Good times. Not expecting a huge amount of power from this setup. Just looking at freeing up the intake and exhaust on the vehicle. This Unichip did it.

I am considering trying out the 92 octane standard fuel and timing plus map as well. I notice you are in Cali also. I'm assuming you're running 91 octane. Is that correct?

[RWD-boxer]

Can unichip do 2 step launch control ?

[Unichip Jack]

RWD-boxer... yes, expect details shortly...

Cheers

[xcelir8brz]

Originally Posted by Chillz

Jack,
Is there a dummy map or a way to easily switch off the Unichip without physically removing it? I'd like to be able to easily compare OEM with the tuned maps.

After extensive testing last night, I'd like to know if this is possible as well.

[blkwrxwag]

I just installed my basic kit this morning...

First question is related to the switch for Map 0 or Map 1. How do you know which one you have selected as there are no markings on the switch other than the 0/1?

Also, it says Map 1 is the higher octane map - exactly how much higher octane? I'm in CA with crappy 91, so I assume that is not it.

Does the switch have to be installed, or if I take it out will the car always default to Map 0?

I only had time for a short test drive before my fiancee dragged me off to other duties, but the car definitely felt smoother, like the torque dip had been flattened out some. It also felt like power was up everywhere, not much, but just a little better everywhere. Feels like that this should have been the tune from the factory.

[ScionFrsFan]

Hey jack, how is E85 looking ;D?!

[Unichip Jack]

Perhaps a bit of a jump here, but I though some questions from a Unichip vs. EcuTek thread were more appropriately answered here. Note these are simplified answers… getting “wild” with the car can get pretty involved and a often the answer will be “it depends…”

Q - So which software could I use to manipulate/edit tables however I want at my finger tips?

The software is called UniQ and it’s available on our website… http://www.unichip.us/products/33-Uni-Tune-Kit

A couple of important clarifications…

As mentioned in the other thread, the basic FA20 kit is a basic kit designed the typical guy looking to play with his car. As such, it includes the UniQ because it’s a less expensive computer than the UniQ+.

There are two major differences between the UniQ and UniQ+… the Q+ has an additional plug with more inputs and outputs so you can tie into and manipulate more circuits/signals. The Q+ also contains two drivers so it control electrical devices not controlled by the ECU. Beyond that, the two Unichip versions are identical and do the same functions.

Cheers

[Hix]

Will you be releasing more aggressive maps and e85 support anytime soon? already feel some bump with the advanced timing map but I wish it was more.. I know this will never be a bolt on beast but I can't help but want more. btw, I got the perrin intake, springs, and the unichip on the car in less than two hours time. really simple install.. aside from the cam sensor, that was a bitch.

[subiestar]

Originally Posted by blkwrxwag

I just installed my basic kit this morning...

First question is related to the switch for Map 0 or Map 1. How do you know which one you have selected as there are no markings on the switch other than the 0/1?

Also, it says Map 1 is the higher octane map - exactly how much higher octane? I'm in CA with crappy 91, so I assume that is not it.

Does the switch have to be installed, or if I take it out will the car always default to Map 0?

I only had time for a short test drive before my fiancee dragged me off ...

The back of your unichip should have a sticker that points Map 0 to 87 octane, and Map 1 to 91 Octane stock (unless you noted otherwise when you ordered). The chip defaults to Map 1 if you take out your switch. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but to correlate it with the software, I think Map 0 is the Main Map and Map 1 is Map set 2.

Which map did you start with? I'm sharing the same pain you are with our cheap 91 gas.

[Unichip Jack]

I hope everybody had a good weekend… here are some answers I owe…

Q - Is there a dummy map or a way to easily switch off the Unichip without physically removing it? I'd like to be able to easily compare OEM with the tuned maps.

Short answer, no.

Longer answer… the problem is the Unichip makes significant Closed Loop fueling changes to eliminate OE ECU fuel trims that result from the bolt-on parts guys add to their cars.

The ECU builds those fuel trims (it’s trying to fix what it believes are errors) over a period of about 7 long trips (called drive cycles) and they typically change the total fueling solution by about 10%... although some of the aftermarket intakes create changes bigger than that. That amount of fueling change significantly effects power.

With the Unichip installed, those fuel trims are effectively eliminated and we build our maps on top of those much smaller fuel trims. When you remove the ECU, the ECU enters “no man’s land” because it immediately begins creating fuel trims again.

Over the next roughly 7 times you drive the car, it will produce slightly different power each drive (normally less power each time) until the ECU finishes building its fuel trims… the process is known as normalization and all cars do it. Not correctly designing maps to accommodate normalization is the reason piggybacks developed the reputation of “losing their tune…”

Our maps are all built on fully normalized ECU fueling solutions so they don’t “lose their tune” but as a result you can’t pull it off and get a valid comparison because the ECU isn’t where it will stabilize at.

Q - related to the switch for Map 0 or Map 1. How do you know which one you have selected as there are no markings on the switch other than the 0/1?

Whichever switch position is “down” or “flush” is the map you have selected.

Q - Map 1 is the higher octane map - exactly how much higher octane?

We build our Timing Standard maps for 87, 89, and 92 octane fuel. They should be fine with anything + 1 point… realize that there can some pretty significant differences between fuel blends. If you want more or less timing (or fueling) the maps are available with the download cable... that's all discussed in the MapsQ thread... http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26134

Q - Does the switch have to be installed, or if I take it out will the car always default to Map 0?

No, yes… If the switch is removed, the Unichip defaults to the Main Map Set. If you always want to run, for example, premium, you can load that map into the Main Map Set and don’t need to connect the switch.

Cheers

[subiestar]

Originally Posted by Unichip Jack

Q - Does the switch have to be installed, or if I take it out will the car always default to Map 0?

No, yes… If the switch is removed, the Unichip defaults to the Main Map Set. If you always want to run, for example, premium, you can load that map into the Main Map Set and don’t need to connect the switch.

Cheers

I just did a test where I remapped my Unichip as follows in the software:
Main Map: 92 Oct All Drop-in Filter Fuel~ Timing+
Map set 2: Immobilizer

Plug the unichip in my car, set the dual switch to "O", pushed the Start button (Limited BRZ)...and my car started.
Then I set the dual switch to "I" (or 1 ), pushed the Start button...and my car won't start.
(Okay, so I guess I got my switch reversed)

Now, here's the weird thing... I unplugged and removed my Unichip from the engine (expecting it to go back to stock ECU tune), pushed the Start button...and my car still won't start (WTF???)

So is the Unichip storing some kind of memory in the ECU? (Update: nevermind, I think I'm suppose to remove the Unichip cable and plug all the factory plugs into the sensors to go back to stock ECU.)

[blkwrxwag]

Thanks everyone... I was running switch 0 today. I'll try switch 1 and see how that goes. My guess is that CA 91 lies somewhere in between, so perhaps I'll play with the timing maps if Switch 1 doesn't work as well.

[Unichip Jack]

Subistar... you were correct originally...

Map select switch position 0 = software Main Map Set which is (a) the position the Unichip reverts to without the switch installed and (b) is the position where we load the lower octane map.

Map select switch position 1 = software Map 2 which is the position where we load the higher octane map.

Cheers

[Tradewind]

Point me to the retail site for this product please