FYI: Status of Koni Sports

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

10 sets rolled in the door today. All 10 sets are, and have been sold. 3 more sets are due soon... and I have an order for at least one of those sitting on my desk as I type this.

Teaser:

Have you gotten a chance to run on them yet?
Also how did you dial them in on your past cars that were RWD?

Soft in front medium in rear?

[SVThis]

I was wondering if someone can post the installation instuctions for the inserts. I was wondering if using a pipe cutter was the easiest way to cut off the top.

[xwd]

Originally Posted by SVThis

I was wondering if someone can post the installation instuctions for the inserts. I was wondering if using a pipe cutter was the easiest way to cut off the top.

Pipe cutter is probably the best way. Here is a good install guide:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1219607

[SVThis]

I don't have the Konis yet. How far down do you make the cut and from what point do you measure down?

[Sam Strano]

Ok, all the first 10 sets are outta here. And today, 4 more complete sets showed up!!!!!

So if you are in the market....... I'm going to keep the $770/shipped price on for these 4 sets as well. Don't wait if you want them, who knows how long until more show up.

[Kido1986]

Mine are in. Cant install until next week but Im excited

[Ninjin]

I'm excited, but the wait is killing me!

[Sam Strano]

3 sets left....... When they are gone the free shipping goes away too.

[jdrxb9]

Well, since Sam posted a 'before' shot, I figured I'd post an 'after' shot - converted and ready to install:


(clickable thumb)

Originally Posted by dwx

Pipe cutter is probably the best way. Here is a good install guide:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1219607

thanks for the link - lots of good stuff in there

Just to add a couple points:

• with the struts inverted I got zero fluid spray from the first and just a small mist (just enough to dampen the drill chuck) from the second - pumping out the fluid through the initial hole worked great
• I could not believe how tight the fit was between the insert and the ID of the strut - I scraped off a lot of yellow paint pounding them in
• the second one was so tight, I had to go pick up some 1" pipe to better drive it down to the retaining bumps - totally destroyed the plastic impact/protection ring
• you will definitely want an 8mm hex drive socket and torque wrench for the bottom bolt - 55 ft-lb is pretty tight and I would not have wanted to try it with a hex key
• and I will definitely take the smell of fork oil over used manual transmission fluid any day! (maybe I'm just used to it from tearing apart forks?)

Originally Posted by SVThis

I don't have the Konis yet. How far down do you make the cut and from what point do you measure down?

I measured the bumps as ~46mm down and the instruction chart gives the cut point for that measurement as 40mm. I measured from the very top of the strut and cut with the HF #2 pipe cutter (only ~$15) and it worked great.

cheers!

[SVThis]

I'm wondering if initially using a longer bolt on the bottom of the strut to pull the insert down into the strut would work better than pounding. Might be worth a try.

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by SVThis

I'm wondering if initially using a longer bolt on the bottom of the strut to pull the insert down into the strut would work better than pounding. Might be worth a try.

That was my thought as well. Unfortunately, the longest M12x1.5 my local hardware store had was 100mm, which was not long enough to reach the insert at the point where it initially got difficult. I bought the 100mm and a big stack of washers, but with the more even loading of the pipe, it went in without too much difficulty and I ended up not using the bolt.

[Sam Strano]

They made the inserts as large as possible so they could use the biggest piston and have the greatest oil volume possible in this type of damper. Funny that one was tighter than the other, I'm guessing it had thicker paint.

What I'm looking forward to is the report when you guys get them on the cars.

BTW.... Down to one set. More are coming in, but I have one set left in the shop available for purchase.

[enjoyminutemaid]

Originally Posted by jdrxb9

Well, since Sam posted a 'before' shot, I figured I'd post an 'after' shot - converted and ready to install:


(clickable thumb)



thanks for the link - lots of good stuff in there

Just to add a couple points:

• with the struts inverted I got zero fluid spray from the first and just a small mist (just enough to dampen the drill chuck) from the second - pumping out the fluid through the initial hole worked great
• I could not believe how tight the fit was between the insert and the ID of the strut - I scraped off a lot of yellow paint pounding them in
• the second one was so tight, I had to go pick up some 1" pipe to better drive it down to the retaining bumps - totally destroyed the plastic impact/protection ring
• you will definitely want an 8mm hex drive socket and torque wrench for the bottom bolt - 55 ft-lb is pretty tight and I would not have wanted to try it with a hex key
• and I will definitely take the smell of fork oil over used manual transmission fluid any day! (maybe I'm just used to it from tearing apart forks?)

I measured the bumps as ~46mm down and the instruction chart gives the cut point for that measurement as 40mm. I measured from the very top of the strut and cut with the HF #2 pipe cutter (only ~$15) and it worked great.

cheers!

Can you give an estimate on install time?

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by enjoyminutemaid

Can you give an estimate on install time?

Well, I'm waiting on a front swaybar to do the actual install, so I can't give you any first hand info on installation. (The struts above are take-offs I purchased ahead of time so I could do the conversion at my leisure and also to be able to go back to my stock struts if I want to later.) For just the conversion, assuming no hardware store runs to interrupt you, I'd say under an hour. For the overall installation, see the DIY lowering spring installation link here - the OP says two hours, but that sounds a bit optimistic to me. I'd budget at least 4 for the whole process including converting the fronts.