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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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02-28-2013, 12:57 PM | #29 |
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Thanks for the pictures.
It certainly helps me to narrow down my choice for an exhaust. Good luck with contacting them again. Hopefully you get a satisfactory resolution. |
02-28-2013, 01:07 PM | #30 |
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My info was wrong, sorry!
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02-28-2013, 01:21 PM | #31 |
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02-28-2013, 01:32 PM | #32 |
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Wow. That is alot more rust than I expected. Scotchbrite is the correct tool for this job.
LINK - couldn't find less than a 20 pack, but the maroon (fine) or gray (coarse) styles do a great job on stainless.
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02-28-2013, 01:37 PM | #33 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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02-28-2013, 01:51 PM | #34 |
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What a shitty exhaust, the stock one on my car has almost no rust and I went through a lot of salty roads here also since november. Not impressed at all.
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02-28-2013, 01:57 PM | #35 |
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Dang I almost got the Takeda exhaust, too, to go with my Takeda intake. I think if you clean it a bit then maybe spray some rust neutralizer that converts the rust into a firm material you'll be good. But I'd confirm with someone who knows if that's safe on an exhaust which needs to expel heat. I'm not too familiar with automotive rust lol because I haven't lived in a cold winter area til this past year.
Skip to the 4:00 minute mark to see where I got this idea: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1TQPx_0mkU"]Mazda MX5 part 2.avi - YouTube[/ame] IMO only the tips really matter for aesthetics and yours are still good. Exhausts are wear items anyway and start deteriorating the moment you start using them. Plus your rust probably matches other spots in our under body that I've seen rust even when not in winter weather. If your exhaust still sounds good, breathes good, and isn't rusted through the inside then you should be fine for awhile.
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02-28-2013, 01:57 PM | #36 |
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I wonder, if I clean the rust, will it appear again in a few month?
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02-28-2013, 02:29 PM | #37 |
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I take back the statement. Check out this link: MATERIAL SPECS
They suggest that the surface coating will happen in normal air, and a light rust will protect against further corrosion. Seems like you should not remove the rust, but rather just deal with the finish. I don't like that answer, but a few other sources say similar things. Borla uses 304, I've seen some pricey systems use titanium. Cheap exhaust is aluminized steel. This is the first I've ever heard of 409, but apparently it's the go-to material for exhausts because it's inexpensive, relatively corrosion resistant, and weldable.
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02-28-2013, 02:37 PM | #38 |
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Ouch to the response you got
Hope for the best
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02-28-2013, 02:44 PM | #39 |
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Based on @Shankenstein's finding, I take back what I said about cleaning it off and spraying rust neutralizer.
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02-28-2013, 03:32 PM | #40 |
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the SRT exhaust is stainless steal. mine sat around in constantly melting and the freezing snow all winter. Exhaust is still solid. I will check it this week and confirm with you but a few days ago it looked great.
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02-28-2013, 03:41 PM | #41 | |
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First of all, thanks to all of you guys. Really appreciate your help!
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It sounds so good, perfect to me
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02-28-2013, 04:29 PM | #42 | |
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Also, I may be wrong, but I don't see anything about the "409" stainless, here's the description of the exhaust from their website:
Quote:
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