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Old 02-22-2013, 10:14 AM   #29
King Tut
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I like this thread. Here are the current mods on my car:



Engine / Performance Modifications:
  • Full Blown Black Ceramic Coated Equal Length Turbo Manifold
  • Full Blown 550 hp Intercooler
  • Full Blown Aluminum Wrinkled Black Intercooler Piping
  • Full Blown Black Ceramic Coated 3" 4 Bolt Downpipe with Recirculating Dump Tube
  • Full Blown 3" Intake Pipe with K&N Filter
  • Full Blown 270 LPH Fuel Pump
  • Full Blown EcuTek 9 PSI Basemap Tune
  • Garrett GT2871R Oil/Water Cooled Ball Bearing Turbo
  • T31 .63 A/R 4 Bolt Inlet 2.5" 4 Bolt Outlet Turbine Housing
  • T04B 71 mm 56 Trim Wheel and .60 A/R Compressor Housing
  • Precision Turbo 39 mm External Wastegate
  • Tial 50 mm Q Blow Off Valve
  • GrimmSpeed Manual Boost Controller
  • Bosch 550cc Fuel Injectors
  • Dual 12" Slim Electric Cooling Fans
  • Fast-Turbo Vacuum Manifold
  • JDL Auto Design 2.5" Overpipe
  • JDL Auto Design 2.5" Frontpipe
  • ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate/6 Pad Sprung Race Disc Clutch
  • ACT XACT Prolite Flywheel
  • D3 Performance Engineering Catch Can
  • DEI 2" Black Header Wrap with Stainless Steel Locking Ties
  • Perrin Transmission Support
  • Perrin Rear Shifter Bushing
Wheel / Suspension / Brake Modifications:
  • WedsSport TC105N 18x8 +42 TS Titan Wheels
  • Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/35/18 Tires
  • WedsSport Racing Metallic Black Lug Nuts and Locks
  • WedsSport TC105N 5x100 Center Caps
  • H&R Super Sport Springs
  • Cusco Rear Camber Adjustable Lower Control Arms
  • 2008-2012 Subaru WRX STI Front and Rear Calipers
  • DBA 4000 Series T3 Rotors
  • Hawk HPS Pads
  • Goodridge G-Stop Braided Stainless Steel Brakeline Kit
  • ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid
Interior Modifications:
  • AEM Failsafe Wideband/Boost Gauge
  • Motorsports Authority Single Gauge Pillar Pod
I plan to add the Greddy Evo3 exhaust, a turbo blanket, and I will probably upgrade my wheels and tires to run a 245 front and 275 rear. I am leaning towards the BFG KDWs as I liked them on a previous car. Oil cooler and radiator upgrades might happen as well, but I definitely don't feel they are required by any stretch for a street driven car. I am also running 5w20 synthetic currently.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:20 AM   #30
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CLUTCH!

the more power you make the more clutch u need.
I'm assuming the FI kit will reduce the motor mounts life significantly.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:33 AM   #31
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CLUTCH!

the more power you make the more clutch u need.
I'm assuming the FI kit will reduce the motor mounts life significantly.
I would go for a sprung hub no matter what application on our cars, all the way up to 700hp. For the transmissions sake.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:02 AM   #32
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Yeah, thanks for this thread. I'm new to modding so this is a good resource for me to make sure I have what I need/give me ideas for better stuff.

Brakes and wider wheels & tires are next on the list, so far I have only stiffened things up with strut bars and sway bars, and I have PSS at 215.

If anyone has suggestions for appropriate supporting gear to go with my vortech kit I would welcome any advice.
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:57 PM   #33
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For the turbo or charged guys not running and oil cooler... What kind if oil temps are you seeing when you flog it?
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnapOv3st3r View Post
Lets face it. If you are at the point that you are needing something bigger than 3" then you don't really care about daily driving out of boost and having less hp than stock at those rpms. You aren't even racing at that DD activity so does it even matter. Sidebar, the amount of whp that you might have lost isn't even noticeable. You aren't accelerating hard enough to even care.

Larger exhaust is better for spooling sorry. Backpressure and turbo does not belong in the same sentence. Backpressure and N/A does.
Yea agree you now. Have found ample evidence that is contradictory to my initial view point.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_sb View Post
For the turbo or charged guys not running and oil cooler... What kind if oil temps are you seeing when you flog it?
I will try and get you an answer on that when I do some EcuTek logging this weekend.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:57 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl View Post
for sure you're right, however, would like to see data that show real world gains going from 2.5" to 3" on a 10-12psi setup before putting money where it may not pay, there arent many 3" systems on market either...(yet?)
3" will give you gains even at that boost. Turbo's love free flowing exhausts, period.

You are right that there is no evidence yet on this particular motor. At least I don't think anyone has done a head to head comparison yet.

But I posted the results of a 15psi motor on the previous page. BIG improvement with 3" even at this low'ish boost level. (of course what is low and high boost is a little subjective)

My Mr2 which I ran on 17 psi on 91 octane definitely had a huge improvement.

And also for your low psi concern... on my first turbo charging endeavor (honda accord coupe) I was running 9 psi and went to get dyno tuned with the stock exhaust.

1. I went from 135whp to 170 whp.
2. I stepped up to a 2.5" exhaust and hit 190 whp and the turbo spooled ~500 rpms quicker (no change in tune). Had it tuned to 197 whp max.
3. A few months later I had a 3" exhaust fabbed up and installed and it made ~210 whp and spooled ~250 rpms faster. Had it tuned to a max of 220 whp.

There will always be gains by free'ing up the turbo. Whether it is worth going to a louder, more difficult-to-fit exhaust... is up to you to decide how much a few hundred rpm of spool and a bit more HP is worth it.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:24 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by sw20kosh View Post
There will always be gains by free'ing up the turbo. Whether it is worth going to a louder, more difficult-to-fit exhaust... is up to you to decide how much a few hundred rpm of spool and a bit more HP is worth it.
I think this sums it up nicely...Different motors react differently to back pressure. Most honda motors absolutely HATE it...Big Turbine housings and Big downpipes are the key, you get into some other markets like VW 1.8t , even 4g63 stuff and they are not as sensitive to backpressure and you dont' always see the huge gains you see on the honda motors with super high VE.

This kinda stuff in interesting and one of the main reasons i went Standalone in my car so i have the ability to log backpressure etc..
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:53 PM   #38
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Stage 1. 300whp
At this power level, you will want to do a few mods.
Tires. The stock tires will be fun on the street, but they have too low of limits for this power level.
Clutch will not last long at this power level. Under 200wtq and you will hold up for a while, depending on your driving style.
Oil catch can is always optional, but very beneficial for FI applications.
Exhaust. 2.5-3".

Stage 2. 350whp
At this power level, you are most likely looking at E85, or race gas.
Injectors
Fuel pump
4 bar MAP
Clutch is a must
Look into wider tires, larger wheels, and suspension upgrades.
To help engine longevity, you'll want an oil cooler.
Engine mounts are at their limits.

Stage 3. 400+whp
Overnight parts from Japan.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:33 PM   #39
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Here is an example of just a change from a regular 3" downpipe to a divorced 3" downpipe... less backpressure..more power.. looking for the plot of stock exhaust vs 3". No changes to the tune. And this was an uncorrected dyno dynamics.

That's almost 20wtq at 3800 rpm folks



Quote:
Originally Posted by sw20kosh View Post
3" will give you gains even at that boost. Turbo's love free flowing exhausts, period.

You are right that there is no evidence yet on this particular motor. At least I don't think anyone has done a head to head comparison yet.

But I posted the results of a 15psi motor on the previous page. BIG improvement with 3" even at this low'ish boost level. (of course what is low and high boost is a little subjective)

My Mr2 which I ran on 17 psi on 91 octane definitely had a huge improvement.

And also for your low psi concern... on my first turbo charging endeavor (honda accord coupe) I was running 9 psi and went to get dyno tuned with the stock exhaust.

1. I went from 135whp to 170 whp.
2. I stepped up to a 2.5" exhaust and hit 190 whp and the turbo spooled ~500 rpms quicker (no change in tune). Had it tuned to 197 whp max.
3. A few months later I had a 3" exhaust fabbed up and installed and it made ~210 whp and spooled ~250 rpms faster. Had it tuned to a max of 220 whp.

There will always be gains by free'ing up the turbo. Whether it is worth going to a louder, more difficult-to-fit exhaust... is up to you to decide how much a few hundred rpm of spool and a bit more HP is worth it.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:49 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coheed View Post
..

Stage 2. 350whp
..
4 bar MAP
....
3 bar map sensor is good for ~29psi boost at sea level.. a 4bar is good headroom but most wont need it.

Lol at stage 3 overnight parts
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_sb View Post
Here is an example of just a change from a regular 3" downpipe to a divorced 3" downpipe... less backpressure..more power.. looking for the plot of stock exhaust vs 3"
Haha ya forgot about divorced wastegate set ups.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sw20kosh View Post
Haha ya forgot about divorced wastegate set ups.
that wasn't even divorced, that one rejoined about 12" from the stock flapper

Some people may not think this applies, but the 4B11T is a 2.0 low compression motor running 19psi stock.... Huge gains going from tuned stock exhaust to 3" turbo back on the same tune... i don't have access to the photobucket account i used to use when i was tuning so i cant get all the plots right now.
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