Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[Coaster]

I found this on Yahoo for removing the springs safely without a spring compressor. Is it a good way?

"Loosen up the bolts that fasten the coil springs to the car.

There will be 2 to 4 bolts on the top and the bottom of each coil spring. Using a wrench or ratchet and extension, loosen the bolts at the top and the bottom. Do not remove the bolts yet. There is probably tension on the spring. Removing the bolts now could cause the spring to pop loose and cause you and/or your vehicle damage.

Raise the jack a little at a time while checking the coil springs.

The idea here is to raise your vehicle enough to take the pressure off of the coil springs. When you see the springs start to extend a little, this means that they are no longer holding weight up. The weight of the lower part of the vehicle is stretching the springs. You do not want to fully extend the springs because you do not want recoil when you remove the bolts. Now, let the jack back down until the springs appear to be neither compressed nor extended.

Very carefully remove the lower bolts from the coil springs.

The next step is to return underneath the vehicle and remove the lower bolts. Even if the spring recoils a little, it should not be a problem because the top bolts will still be holding it in place. When the lower bracket and bolts are removed, finish removing the top bolts. The spring should now be able to slide out and down from your vehicle. Remove one spring at a time and replace it before removing the other spring."

http://voices.yahoo.com/how-replace-...42.html?cat=27

Removing the spring is the trickiest part.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=kY56ib3I-ew"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=kY56ib3I-ew[/ame]

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Coaster

I found this on Yahoo for removing the springs safely without a spring compressor. Is it a good way?

"Loosen up the bolts that fasten the coil springs to the car.

There will be 2 to 4 bolts on the top and the bottom of each coil spring. Using a wrench or ratchet and extension, loosen the bolts at the top and the bottom. Do not remove the bolts yet. There is probably tension on the spring. Removing the bolts now could cause the spring to pop loose and cause you and/or your vehicle damage.

Raise the jack a little at a time while checking the coil springs.

The idea here is to raise your vehicle enough to take the pressure off of the coil springs. When you see the springs start to extend a little, this means that they are no longer holding weight up. The weight of the lower part of the vehicle is stretching the springs. You do not want to fully extend the springs because you do not want recoil when you remove the bolts. Now, let the jack back down until the springs appear to be neither compressed nor extended.

Very carefully remove the lower bolts from the coil springs.

The next step is to return underneath the vehicle and remove the lower bolts. Even if the spring recoils a little, it should not be a problem because the top bolts will still be holding it in place. When the lower bracket and bolts are removed, finish removing the top bolts. The spring should now be able to slide out and down from your vehicle. Remove one spring at a time and replace it before removing the other spring."

http://voices.yahoo.com/how-replace-...42.html?cat=27

Removing the spring is the trickiest part.

The springs in our cars are installed over the damper (aka a coilover), unlike that video. In this case you remove the damper and spring as one unit as then disassemble it. You can rent spring compressors for free in many auto parts stores.

[2013BRZ]

Great guide!

Regarding the front installation, the cable clamps for the abs wiring harness in the beginning do not need prying out, you can unbuckle them with a flathead.

Had trouble getting the nut of the shock, a local shop did it cheap for me in 30 mins, otherwise, no problems encountered.

[Moshpit37]

Well, I didn't know about the "special tools" required and now my right rear strut is damaged. Looks like I spun the center shaft out. Is there any way to fix this or am I just screwed and need a new strut?

[Fizz]

If it's damaged you'll need new ones. They can't be repaired.

[cruzinbill]

Originally Posted by Moshpit37

Well, I didn't know about the "special tools" required and now my right rear strut is damaged. Looks like I spun the center shaft out. Is there any way to fix this or am I just screwed and need a new strut?

Nope, you are screwed

[Moshpit37]

Originally Posted by cruzinbill

Nope, you are screwed

Yeah i figured.

[cruzinbill]

Originally Posted by Moshpit37

Yeah i figured.

lemme know if you need help, not sure if youre a rookie in that area or not.

[Moshpit37]

Originally Posted by cruzinbill

lemme know if you need help, not sure if youre a rookie in that area or not.

That I am, good sir. But I'm a quick learner. It was a $115 mistake, but one I don't expect to be making again. I bought a Kobalt Xtreme Axcess socket/ratchet set so I can break the nuts loose properly this time. Now I'm just waiting for my new strut to come in to the dealership.

[cruzinbill]

Originally Posted by Moshpit37

That I am, good sir. But I'm a quick learner. It was a $115 mistake, but one I don't expect to be making again. I bought a Kobalt Xtreme Axcess socket/ratchet set so I can break the nuts loose properly this time. Now I'm just waiting for my new strut to come in to the dealership.

Could have been a strut upgrade opportunity lol, well maybe. How much did it end up being for an oem one?


nvm, guess that was the 115. ya not really worth doing all 4 then.

[Moshpit37]

Yeah I wish I was able to upgrade all 4, but just can't justify that kind of cash right now. Trying to get ready for autocross and I need a helmet and strut braces first.

[sinigang_guy]

currently stuck with removing the rear strut. i removed the 2 bolts before step 42, but i cant shake the strut loose from the lower control arm.

any thoughts?

[86•BRZ]

You need to force the wheel hub down. I did it with two planks of wood arranged in such a way as to not bend disk brake backing plate.

[philstar]

Is it possible to just buy the specialty service tools (SST) somewhere?

If not I guess I will go with getting the pass through socket set and crowsfoot sockets/wrench to torque properly.