replace flywheel?

[Synack]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Any good shop should keep it less than a day, I would guess a good shop would bill 4-6 hours on a simple RWD car.

What clutches are you buying? Last one I bought was <$300, admittedly not performance but still $600 seems a tad high for OEM replacement.

Well when I was looking I saw nothing less than clutch flywheel combos and none were under $600, even for the lowest performer.

Mine is good for like 350 or 400 ft/lbs of torque.

But yeah, any half decent shop should bill what you are saying. RWD is the simplest of all platforms to replace a clutch.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Synack

Well when I was looking I saw nothing less than clutch flywheel combos and none were under $600, even for the lowest performer.

Mine is good for like 350 or 400 ft/lbs of torque.

But yeah, any half decent shop should bill what you are saying. RWD is the simplest of all platforms to replace a clutch.

Ah there it is, I only replaced the clutch and had my flywheel resurfaced. I didn't factor in the price of a new flywheel. $600 seems appropriate for both parts together.

:happy0180:

[naikaidriver]

Originally Posted by Synack

Well when I was looking I saw nothing less than clutch flywheel combos and none were under $600, even for the lowest performer.

Mine is good for like 350 or 400 ft/lbs of torque.

But yeah, any half decent shop should bill what you are saying. RWD is the simplest of all platforms to replace a clutch.

^^^THIS^^^

Being the "old guy" that I am, I would just like to add a voice of caution.

A lightened flywheel is definitely a great upgrade for a lightweight car but it is important to remember that you will lose a little drivability with it. Nothing to significant, but due to the reduction in rotating mass, the car will require a bit more throttle when letting out the clutch. This will be especially true for hard launches in a car that, well let's face it, has very little torque. Just something to think about if the car is your daily driver.

Good luck and report back when you get the flywheel! REVIEWS!!

Scott

[Laika]

Originally Posted by naikaidriver

^^^THIS^^^

Being the "old guy" that I am, I would just like to add a voice of caution.

A lightened flywheel is definitely a great upgrade for a lightweight car but it is important to remember that you will lose a little drivability with it. Nothing to significant, but due to the reduction in rotating mass, the car will require a bit more throttle when letting out the clutch. This will be especially true for hard launches in a car that, well let's face it, has very little torque. Just something to think about if the car is your daily driver.

Good luck and report back when you get the flywheel! REVIEWS!!

Scott

Well I'm an "old guy at heart" so I'm going to go ahead and agree with you for the most part.

It all depends on how light of a flywheel it ends up being. Most recently I drove my friends Legacy with a lightweight flywheel (car was an auto initially, no reference point for standard flywheel at the time). The lightweight flywheel was about 50% lighter (11 pounds vs 21 pounds IIRC). After quite a few miles of "driving" I came to the conclusion, I couldn't handle it. It's just a BIT too light.

Naturally, it takes time to get used to such a huge variable in your driving being changed and my friend got used to it and loved it....right up until he manual swapped another Legacy with a regular flywheel. He liked the way it drove so much all he could think about was how bad he wished he didn't go for the lightweight flywheel. And he's certainly a "Spirited" driver. He drives his 12 year legacy harder than I drive my BRZ.

I think we could stand to lose a few pounds off our flywheel and reach that happy medium for driving pleasure. I just know I wouldn't be able to upgrade without testing it out first.

[WolfsFang]

I heard that changing a a clutch on a boxer (at least a STi) is really easy. If anyone owned a evo 8-9, they would know how hard it is changing a clutch on them (let alone one having the ACD pump), yet I got a shop (well someone i know) to do it for $400. So if a shop wants to charge ANYWHERE near 1k I would laugh and walk away.

[20valvewynn83]

Originally Posted by Orthow

That has to be the book time for Dealerships to perform the task.

Hahaha not even close book time is around 2.4 hrs for the job. I can have the flywheel replaced in about 1.5hours or less. This car is the easiest trans to replace.

As far as this post is concerned yes you can use the factory clutch with a lightweight flywheel as that is what I am using now. I currently have the Evolution lightweight flywheel. I also have a lightweight crank pulley (will be replacing my current lightweight pulley for the Evolution crank pulley) and drive ability is not a big deal. Yes you will have a harder time taking off from a start but not significant. The only reason I have issues with taking off from a start is because I use a throttle controller that make throttle responses amplified. For people who talk about just changing the wheel to get the same effect don't know what they are talking about. Rotational mass will always have a greater effect in performance the closer you get to the crank.

[Supermassive]

The time I put as 10 hours is from personal experience. The first time I replaced the clutch it took the better part of 9 hours by myself on the floor of my garage with the car on jack stands. With a lift and a couple people this would be an easy 3 hour job. But for most of us without a lift, and no experience doing this to this car, 6+ hours seems like decent time.

[Vracer111]

Originally Posted by NOHOME

Pointless in this car. Get the same effect for less money by buying light rims and decent tires. If you shave 5 pounds off each corner of the car, it will be a better effort, cost about the same and look better than a clutch and flywheel job.

My other point to all who go about modifying a car. What is the baseline measurement that you are trying to improve upon? If you can't put a number on something, then you cant improve upon it. So, what parameter are you measuring, how are you measuring it and what final value are your trying to attain for what kind of money?

In the case of wheels and tires, you can weight the before and after, you are reducing rotational mass that can be validated with the 0-60 time and same for stopping distance since both less rotational mass AND better tires are going to come into play. The other good thing about this upgrade is that there is no trade-off in drive-ability as there would be with the flywheel.

Lightweight flywheel will noticeably increase acceleration in 1st and 2nd gears compared to lightweight wheels...very measurable decrease in 0-60 time and unmistakable feel of being pushed more forcefully into the seat. Use a G-meter to record acceleration G's off the line before and after installing a lightweight flywheel...you will see a difference between the two. Motor RPM's changing faster = faster acceleration.

At least that was the case in my '90 Integra RS track car with ACT Prolite flywheel in an otherwise stock motor (did have custom Intake & Exhuast feeding and relieving the motor), was quicker off the line and launched harder than my track prepared V6 Camaro. The lighter the car is the more difference it makes though... so I don't expect the difference to be as noticeable on the 2,7xxlb FR-S with a 10.5lb ACT Prolite flywheel as it was on my ~2,300lb '90 RS with it's 8.8lb ACT Prolite flywheel and mass distribution shifted to an ~65 percent front bias.

I didn't find any issues with it being more difficult to daily drive with the 8.8lb ACT Prolite flywheel; it was no more difficult than with the stock flywheel on the same tires and wheels to me. However, it was more responsive, better sounding, and accelerated quicker. Was perfectly fine in stop and go traffic too.

I plan to go with an ACT Prolite flywheel once the warranty is up and it would be a good time to replace the clutch disc. The lighter flywheel will make the excellent handling car even more precise and responsive to drive...and I've yet to drive a car with an engine that was too responsive for me. The FR-S could use an increase it's responsiveness [while not bad, its motor is much less responsive than my '90 RS was...and being throttle by wire it will never be as good as a mechanically linked throttle-body to me]

[Racecomp Engineering]

Lots of old dudes in here so here's my added .02 cents worth.........

Doing the 10lbs lighter flywheel ......AND the 10lb lighter driveshaft....( carbon fiber or alloy) will FOR CERTAIN make a HUGE difference.

Make sure you replace motor mounts too as the motor will want to jump outta the engine bay !

I'm doing the ACT flywheel AND the Driveshaft Shop driveshaft in the next 3 weeks. I think this with the already 4.55 final will make the car feel like my old 280Z with back in the ..........yes 80's !

Myles

[eljefe]

i drove around for 4 years in my previous daily, a RSX-S, with a 8lb flywheel. The car was extremely easy to stall. I was used to it, but if anyone else drove my car it was pretty much guaranteed they would stall it. I also have a lightened flywheel in my race car, a civic hatch.

I have considered it for this car, but it will probably come way down the line once my warranty is up and i decide on a new clutch. I think in the stock configuration with prius tires, that a lightened flywheel would be detrimental to cornering ability. With a tendency to rev faster, its going to mean a tendency to break loose faster on stock tires. Therefore with slightly more power, and a new wider wheel setup, a lightened flywheel could be a balanced mod.

Im very concerned with maintaining balance in this car, as opposed to my fwd cars where i can pretty much go all out with power mods and still take corners at 60 no problem.

[mad_sb]

For what it's worth.. A good friend of mine owned a tuning shop with a awd Dyno Dynamics load bearing dyno... we ALWAYS saw measurable gains in wheel torque and wheel hp from lighter flywheels and lighter wheels and tires, the latter on awd cars especially.

In one case I picked up about 6 or 7whp from putting TE37's on my evo 8. In another case a NA 350z picked up just over 10whp from a flywheel swap. These were both in 3rd gear.

This was on an uncorrected dyno dynamics.

I don't recall the calculation for equivilant hp gain from reduced rotating mass but there is one lol. IIRC the gains deminish somewhat with gear ratio so 1st and 2nd show more gain then 6th for example.

[zdr93523]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Lots of old dudes in here so here's my added .02 cents worth.........

Doing the 10lbs lighter flywheel ......AND the 10lb lighter driveshaft....( carbon fiber or alloy) will FOR CERTAIN make a HUGE difference.

Make sure you replace motor mounts too as the motor will want to jump outta the engine bay !

I'm doing the ACT flywheel AND the Driveshaft Shop driveshaft in the next 3 weeks. I think this with the already 4.55 final will make the car feel like my old 280Z with back in the ..........yes 80's !

Myles

I have the Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft and am considering the ACT 11lb flywheel/clutch. What is your feedback on this combo? I track my car so will the flywheel make a significant difference in 3rd and 4th gears, accelerating/decelerating, rev matching, etc...?

[VacantSky]

Definitely not a 10 hour job, I pulled my trans and had it back in in about 4.5 hours. that was car being pulled in, up in the air, and back on the ground again running.

[DandoX]

I know I'm posting in an old thread but this isn't worth a new thread.

I'm replacing my clutch kit and I wanted to know if anyone's knows the weight of the stock flywheel on 2012-2013 model FRS/BRZ?

I know they released a lighter one and they don't sell the older more heavy flywheel my car came with. I'm looking for the same weight and quality flywheel as I have I don't want anything more light, that being said is this a good one to go with, anyone with experiences https://www.86speed.com/products/exe...-flywheel.html