Let's discuss SCCA Stock Class

[ABQautoxer]

If it doesn't say you can (or appear in that list I did), you can't.

[whataboutbob]

Here's the latest rules for reference:

Main SCCA Solo rules page: http://www.scca.com/solo/content.cfm?cid=44517
2013 Draft Rules: http://www.scca.com/assets/2013%20SC...20Draft%20.pdf
Fastrack (rules updates): http://www.scca.com/assets/13-fastrack-jan-solo.pdf

[edj]

this web page does a good job of helping you figure out whether a mod is legal
for your class or not:

DIY Classing

[gmookher]

wonder how I will do with FI in stx...

[GTB/ZR-1]

Originally Posted by gmookher

wonder how I will do with FI in stx...

You won't... lol

You go straight to Street Mod.

I'm planning on being there next year.

[snapspinner]

I'm thinking about buying 245/40 Kuhmo V710's for stock class. From just looking at it the inside edge will be really close to the spring perch in the front especially after adding a crash bolt. Anyone on here fitted 245's? How did they fit? For added info I'm planning on using a set of stock wheels with a the max legal spacer to push the wheels out.

[celica73]

Originally Posted by snapspinner

I'm thinking about buying 245/40 Kuhmo V710's for stock class. From just looking at it the inside edge will be really close to the spring perch in the front especially after adding a crash bolt. Anyone on here fitted 245's? How did they fit? For added info I'm planning on using a set of stock wheels with a the max legal spacer to push the wheels out.

I think you will be fine. My 245/40 dunlops are really close to the strut (1/16") - using crash bolts top and bottom, but they still didn't rub. My 8" wide wheels are closer to the strut than your 7" wheels will be.

[xwd]

Originally Posted by snapspinner

I'm thinking about buying 245/40 Kuhmo V710's for stock class. From just looking at it the inside edge will be really close to the spring perch in the front especially after adding a crash bolt. Anyone on here fitted 245's? How did they fit? For added info I'm planning on using a set of stock wheels with a the max legal spacer to push the wheels out.

I have 245/40/17 Hoosier A6s on +42 rims with the crash bolts and there is somewhere in between 1/16 and 1/8 of space. You should be okay with the V710s. The 710 wouldn't be my choice of tire though.

[snapspinner]

Originally Posted by dwx

I have 245/40/17 Hoosier A6s on +42 rims with the crash bolts and there is somewhere in between 1/16 and 1/8 of space. You should be okay with the V710s. The 710 wouldn't be my choice of tire though.

I've been out of autocross for a few years but it seems like the only tires I really hear being fast about are Hoosiers. They seem to be the absolute fastest tire. Everything else isn't as fast but the cost of being fast on Hoosiers is that they have really short life spans, I'm hearing they only last 20-30 runs. I'm looking for a tire that will be competitive locally and last me a whole season (maybe 50-60 runs with testing) Are there any other tires beside the Kumho to consider?

[MTCRX]

Hankook z217 soft c71 compound are great tires. Dot slicks that gave me tons of grip with my crx last season. I raced at least two to four a month with 6-10 runs per event and They still have another season left in them. About half the price of Hoosiers.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by snapspinner

I'm thinking about buying 245/40 Kuhmo V710's for stock class. From just looking at it the inside edge will be really close to the spring perch in the front especially after adding a crash bolt. Anyone on here fitted 245's? How did they fit? For added info I'm planning on using a set of stock wheels with a the max legal spacer to push the wheels out.

Can you do it without the spacer? When you do this can you post some pics?

[xwd]

With a stock offset rim you could get away with a small spacer, like 2-3mm probably. That's with the A6s which are very wide, I'm not sure about the V710, would be close.

The A6 and the BFG R1S are the two fastest tires. The R1S will last a little longer than the Hoosier and is a little bit cheaper, and some have shown it to be not much slower than the A6. Once you get camber bolts in and a bigger front bar I would expect to get 50-60 runs out of a set of A6s even. The front outside is the main wear point with our cars but you can rotate and flip tires if need be to get more life out of them.

That is dependent on surface, temps, etc. but this car should not eat tires like other cars, I would expect to get a lot of runs before they are dead. Of course performance will falloff but that happens with most race tires.

[xwd]

So another topic I was thinking of is what front swaybar folks are running and if people think it would be beneficial to run a different bar on the FR-S vs. the BRZ?

In the interest of testing I actually purchased two different swaybars to test out on the car.

Stock bar is a 18mm solid bar, I weighed it at right around 5lbs with the bushings and collars on it.

I have the Strano 22mm tubular front bar (2nd iteration), which is "85%" stiffer than stock. Sam states on the website the bar comes in at 4lbs although when I weighed it on my scale it was around 5.6lbs without the bushings. It's not too expensive at $169, comes with new bushings.

Thinking it might be a little too much for the BRZ I also purchased a Whiteline BSF45Z swaybar, which is their 20/21mm adjustable solid front swaybar. Since it's solid and adjustable it weighs 1.6lbs more than the Strano bar at 7.2lbs on my scale. According to Whiteline's docs the 20mm setting is 52% stiffer than stock and the 21mm setting is 85% stiffer than stock. However those docs are generic and I'm waiting to hear from Whiteline on the exact specs. The bar is $269 and comes with adjustable front endlinks, collars to prevent movement, and new bushings. The endlinks are useful mainly for lowered vehicles so you can maintain the swaybar in an optimal position.

There are also larger front bars from Eibach (25mm) and Hotchkis (25.4mm?) but they are really too large without using a rear bar, so in stock class I don't think they are a good option. Cusco and Tanabe also make 20mm solid front bars but I wanted the adjustability of the Whiteline.

The rear spring rates on the FR-S are about 8% higher than the BRZ (216 vs. 198) whereas the front spring rates are about 18% higher on the BRZ than the FR-S (156 vs. 127). So both ends promote more oversteer in the FR-S than the BRZ, which leads to my thoughts about using a smaller bar on the BRZ.

I know some folks have the Strano bar but we are in the off-season so I don't think much testing has been done but I would love to hear from folks who have. I'm waiting for a test and tune event here which is usually the first event of the year to test out both bars. Might be a little daunting though since I'm expecting to have shocks on the car as well.

[ABQautoxer]

You'll want that 22mm hollow on either car IMO. Because of the front and rear end design of this car it need it to put power down in tight corners, camber save on the front, and have the better balance at higher speeds.

Also given the weight, COG, and camber I think this car won't be bad on tires, certainly not the 40 run death we see on WRXs and Minis. I think it will be a lot closer to 80-100 on Hoosiers than that but time will tell. On RTR tires mine was extremely gentle after about 30 runs with 14 of those being on a track autox.