To coilover or spring? That is the question...

[Racecomp Engineering]

Our RCE Yellow springs were designed with a real world functional 20mm drop to maximize performance and ride quality. They come with replacement bumpstops so you still have usable bump travel and you're not sitting on the stops at rest like some other springs. These are functional, track tested, performance springs with rates that were carefully chosen to function well...not springs that are simply designed to look good.

With our RCE Yellow springs, here are some of the "toppings" we recommend:

Whiteline Front Gearbox positive shift kit bushing
Whiteline Rear Control Arm upper inner bushing (camber correction)
Whiteline Rear Crossmember mount insert bushing
Whiteline or AVO Front Lower Control Arm Bushing - Rear (+0.50 Caster Adjustment)
AVO Front Lower Control Arm Bushing - Front Insert

The Whiteline rear camber adjustment bushing is great but is a pain to install and adjust. An alternative is to get the non-adjustable bushing and use adjustable rear control arms. Costs more but easier to adjust.

You may not need all of these, but those are our recommended bushings.

Add swaybars if you want to turn things up another notch.

- Andrew

[HiiiPwrFRS]

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...R_S-SUSPENSION This Kit is very appealing to me because of the amount of drop and price for all that it comes with. Does anyone happen to know of the quality of this product from Eibach?

[JoeBoxer]

Eibach is always very good quality, if i was getting a kit like that i would get the Hotchkis though for the more adjustable rear sway. It wouldn't be as low though. I can't believe this kit hasn't sold yet...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150970784556...84.m1423.l2649

[NJA]

Originally Posted by HiiiPwrFRS

Not to hijack this topic but this might be a route im also interested in, but Im looking for more of an aggressive drop than what most coils achieve from what ive seen. I saw that eibach has a sportline set that achieves an almost 2" drop that is very attractive to me, are these good quality? not looking for huge performance benefits. Just reliability and more attractive wheel gap

Eibach springs are definitely quality, as well as H&R

The only issue with springs that provide a more aggressive drop is they may shorten the life of your stock struts

[Accurate Race Shop]

I went with coil overs but for daily driving the ride is really stiff. spring
Installation from my friends has allowed me to sell 3 of my stock struts because theirs have blown out so I guess its up to who wants to take the risk and what you want them for. Just to lower it, springs but performance, coil overs all depends on what you're doing with it.

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[tdoggy57]

So are springs like the eibach sportslines that drop your car about an inch and a half guaranteed to ruin your shocks?

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by tdoggy57

So are springs like the eibach sportslines that drop your car about an inch and a half guaranteed to ruin your shocks?

Pretty much. They cause the strut to be compressed more than it was designed to. Not saying they are going to give out right away but I would not expect to see 40k miles on them either.

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[Sam Strano]

Springs only vs. springs and dampers, vs. Coil-over is one of those seems easy, really isn't if you care about details kind of things.

Coil-over are in fact springs and dampers they just happen to allow you to change or pick ride heights, spring rates, corner weight the car. Some are damping adjustable, some are not. Where a big mistake is made is that because they come as a "kit" many think that they are all somehow pretty much the same. Oh, no. The real key to making a car work and drive well is how good the damping works. And this isn't easy, and frankly it's often screwed up (even by big name companies). There are in fact "custom" dampers that are worse than less trick ones, even for this car (and many others). I've had to fix a lot of high-dollar stuff, and replace a lot of cheap crap shocks over the years too. Cost alone doesn't make a damper good, but you do tend to get what you pay for to some degree, at least on a baseline damper. Some will insist on revalving dampers. Generally I think this is not necessary. Not one of my 14 National Championships has been on revalved dampers. Now, I've tried some dampers that didn't work. I didn't try and "fix" them (well I have), but in every case I went to a better unit from another source. Here's a hint... don't buy into "special whiz bang valving" until you determined that you NEED more valving. I can tell you that I don't on my car. I'm running nowhere near full stiff on either compression or rebound.

Springs and dampers. Here you can't pick your lowering. You can't play with spring rates unless you buy more sets of springs, and you quite possibly can't get exactly the rate you might want to use to dial things in when you get down the road. You can't corner weight the car. And you should pick an appropriate damper to match (more on this later), but just like with coil-overs not all dampers are the same quality or performance even though they all claim to work and the internet will tell you X, Y, and Z all are great. Frankly the most frustrating thing about forums in general, and this one in particular is that there is a lot of reviews that basically amount to "these are great" and not a lot of substance beyond that. And most folks can't do a comparison of more than stock to whatever they picked (for whatever reasons they did).

Springs only. Yeah, this will lower the car. And it won't destroy the shocks on the car the way you see claimed. First understand that the stock damping is meant to work with the taller and generally softer stock springs. And it's not world class anyway. There are cars with a lot more spring rate that ride better than stock. So, then you lower the car, taking away working travel from the damper. Shocks need to move the piston through the oil to work... cut that distance and you are asking for that work to be done in less distance, which means you will need some sort of more aggressive valving setup than the OEM. Then add to that a higher spring rate, so now you have to control more energy from a higher rate spring in that aforementioned shorter travel. Not a recipe for a great result. Still you'll find many that say "I lowered the car and it's great". Ok, but common sense dictates it's likely not. Anyway if you lower a car on OEM dampers you won't blow them to pieces... you just start with a lack of damping and that only gets worse and worse as you drive the car. The dampers get weaker and weaker, having started from already weak to begin with.

I'm also not personally a big Eibach fan in general. Seen them do some pretty stupid things (including change rates by 200 pounds on a car that had no suspension or weight change between two model years). I also drove a VW once lowered but high miles. It was so underdamped I told the kid he needed to look at upgrading.... he had Eibach ProDampers on it. Yikes.

Anyway..... Not all coil-overs are the same, not all springs are the same, not all dampers are the same, anymore than all tires are the same. Shocks are the hardest thing to do right. Over the years I've learned if you buy the best and use what is known to work you are rarely disappointed. Trouble is some folks think that certain things are the best when they might not be (or flat out are not). And there is a difference between better than what was on the car before, and truly good. I see a lot of people not get that. IF they see an improvement somehow they think that there is no more to be had.